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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A few days ago I picked up this Epson 2200 for litterally nothing. So far I have invested 40 bucks in the whole project, including printer. But I still need to buy some aluminum for the drawer bottom and some more wood. I'm hoping to stay under 75 bucks, not including ink of course.

I have the printer part done. Modified the ASF with a dremel and JB Weld, not very pretty. I relocated the mainboard and power supply with a custom shelf I made from sheet metal. I'm going to get some matte black plexi-glass to clean up the back where the USB and power connectors are.

Currently i'm working on building the base now. I am waiting on the mounted bearings for the PF Roller to come in and i'll get started on mounting the roller and encoder and figure out how i'm going to do the PE sensor. I'll be sure to post more pictures when the base in done.

Thanks,
Joey
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I've been thinking about using controller to trigger the pe sensor. I've been in the carpc community for awhile now, anyone that wants to learn more about what carpc's are check out Mp3car.com: Providing the latest news on in-car entertainment, and a community to connect people..

Also here is my carpc project.
1997 Acura CL (Capacitive Touch, GPS, DVD, HD Radio, Backup Camera)


Back on topic. There is a micro controller that another user on the mp3car forums makes called the FusionBrain. Normally we would use it to trigger lights, or monitor voltage, control hvac units, etc.

Check it out here:
Fusion Brain Version 6

I have an extra one laying around that I never put into my carpc. If I have extra time I wanna see if I could use it to eliminate the as and pe sensor completely. But for now I will mount the pe sensor as close to original spot as possible and recently saw a post that someone used two pieces of angle iron at each end of the platen to trigger start and end of print.

I will see how it goes. I have tomorrow off so I wanna make some more progress on it.
 

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Nice carpc. Years ago i wanted to put in a mac mini in my car. But i didn't have enough time. So this project was at the end.
This micro controller is such the same as the one from arduino.
I'm just modding a R1900 to DTG. I prefer the arduino mega 2560 with lcd. So i want to control the platen backwards, a lightbarrier for automatic respective electric height adjustment.
My DTG will be made from aluminium profiles. So i just ordered all items i need. Now i'm waiting for delivery. Only the most important i need is time to plug all things together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes the FusionBrain is very similar to an Arduino. I'm going to try low-tech first and work with the FusionBrain in my spare time. I'm too playing the waiting game but the rest of my parts should be here tomorrow. Can't wait to get some more work done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got a little more work done. I built most of the base. I ended up buying the wrong size mounted bearings, 1mm too small. So I will have to wait til I get the new ones before I can install the PF roller and sensor. Thats why I also left off the side pieces to have room to drill the holes. The last few pictures the sides are just propped up to see if the printer fits ok.

Tomorrow I will work on mounting the PE sensor and building the drawer and maybe the platen if I have time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got some more work done today. Mounted the bearings and the PF roller. Also mounted the PF sensor and motor. Finished putting in the sides and top pieces where the printer sits on. The wires are just taped as well as the wast ink containers while im getting everything working. Still need to build the drawer and platen.

Problem:

First power on it goes through the normal start up and when it finishes after spinning the PF roller twice I get the paper LED with a slow blink.

Which means PE sensor isnt being tripped at the right time. I think.

Second power on after disconnecting the PE sensor. It starts up and get a green light ready to print.

Anyone else just not using the PE sensor all together with a 2200? I'm going to be using Multirip to print if that makes a difference.
 

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Joey, looking good.. regarding the pe you will need this in some form or fashion, it tells the timing for print start and stop.. Im not familiar with the 2200 i never built one because they were discountinued model when i started plus / parts avail etc..

best to go hunting for those that built the 2200 maybe they can help on your questions.. or john (turbo jet) is a master at the 2200 printers might want to give him a phone call as he does not frequent the forums often.. keep up the good work its looking very nice!!!:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the tip. I just figured because I got the ready to print green light without the PE sensor attached, that it would work with out it. Once I build the platen and drawer I'll be able to go through the whole print sequence to see what is happening. I will be sure to post back with my findings.

Joey
 

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Thanks for the tip. I just figured because I got the ready to print green light without the PE sensor attached, that it would work with out it. Once I build the platen and drawer I'll be able to go through the whole print sequence to see what is happening. I will be sure to post back with my findings.

Joey
Almost forgot, another option is to lock it into roll mode (if the 2200 has that feature):) this way the printer thinks it has paper in mass length .. which = it thinks it has paper all the time and will print on demand considering how the 2200 roll mode works on the newer printers it will not let you reverse as the encoder reads this and will try and correct the last position it was in!! not manual roll but roll.. hope you understand what im conveying..:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well the 2200 does have the roll attachment that goes on the back and a cutter that goes on the front. Is that the roll mode you mean? I assume manual roll means front or rear loading thick media when the paper guides are lifted? I'll have to go through the service manual and see what I can find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Solved my issue. Turns out the sensor didn't like what I was using to trigger it. I was using I thin piece of solid blue Plexiglas. Strange. Used a black piece and start up sequence finished and got the green light.
 

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Solved my issue. Turns out the sensor didn't like what I was using to trigger it. I was using I thin piece of solid blue Plexiglas. Strange. Used a black piece and start up sequence finished and got the green light.
congrats,:D your on your way now!! now you need a good rip, i reccomend ek eukondigital, ask for a trial.. you do qauility work your going to have fun with this and as a printer prolly very successful building your own units..
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks German. Well I have a copy of Multirip GP for 2200 but was thinking about ekprint as well to see which one I like better. Hopefully I will pick up the last remaining pieces tomorrow to build the platen and try and get some test prints out of this baby. So far I've only invested 100 bucks, so I will be pretty happy if I get this thing working properly. I'm also working on a 3D printer as well so I'm trying to divide my spare time between the two.
 

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I'm also working on a 3D printer as well so I'm trying to divide my spare time between the two.
Once you put dtg ink into your printer, you should be religious about maintenance. Specially with the white ink. You should perform at least a head clean every day and print a couple of dark t-shirts every dar. Also shake your white ink a little every day. It is better to use the original epson carts when you are doing your first tests.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yea I don't want to setup the CIS with dtg ink just yet. I got 2 brand new EPSON ink cart sets off of Craigslist for 20 bucks, so I'll put them to good use I promise. I want to get it fully functional with printing on paper using the platen first then move to t-shirts with dtg inks.
 
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