Some things to take into considerations:Ok, based on the modifications from the original diydtg plans, I was going to cut my drawer at 20" deep in order to account for an extra inch beyond what the 1400 can print at a maximum.
Does this sound ok? And then now that I have the drawer glides and I understand how they work, I'm assuming I have to place the print mechs near the front rather than in the exact center and make the lower base 28" deep and mount the drawer glides near the back.
the print head should be located at about 20" from the back then (and the PE switch as well)
Any comments or suggestions before I move forward with those measurements?
That's pretty quick work...I've built my lower tray, my drawer, applied the gripping tape, mounted the glides, have not gotten as far as mounting the drawer inside the base, but the roller is installed and it appeared that it would work well, but I have to do some sanding on the edges of the drawer since it scraped a tiny bit of the grit off the paper-feed roller on the one side due to a wavy cut I made with the jigsaw. the hard part is almost over though.
My drawer is 24 inches, so even if it feeds a few inches on bootup, it'll still be in almost correct printing position.
What I need to know is, is the PE switch the one that tells the printer that it is in position and ready to print? or does the PE switch indicate that the "paper" needs to be moved forward a tiny bit more before actually printing.
Has anyone mounted the PE switch to be triggered by the drawer, or by the platen? If anyone has some more pictures of how they're using that switch I'd appreciate it.
You should be able to deal with the weight by putting part of that load on the drawer rail. I only used one rail. You may be able to adjust it by adjusting the height of rail that is mounted onto the drawer assembly.I've hit Roadblock # 1....
I have the frame, drawer and slides together, it rotates decently by hand, but much to my dismay, I find that there's no way in any form that the built in motor has enough torque or power to turn the rod when the drawer is on top. So I'd have to find a solution before I can continue, I can't figure out how the DIYDTG guy managed to get his drawer to move with the puny torque this motor has. That is a 12V motor, correct? or is it more? 12V can move the bar with no load on it, but even with it loosely laying on top it won't budge.
Also a second issue, the no-slip tape seems to be grinding a bit of the grit off the paper feed bar, which I'm sure will not be good in the long run. The only way I've found to prevent slipping of the feed and causing possible print skips is to put pressure/weight on the drawer and of course this increases the load of the paper feed motor.
As for the rotary sensor and the 1.5" board, I'm currently looking for extensions for the flex cable since I already dismantled the paper feed unit, I won't be able to get it back together (I figured it was necessary to take it off because of platen height considerations) but it seems to make it past boot up just holding the motor in line with the sensor so the wheel rotates. I noticed there are reducing gears on the motor side of the ASF which obviously affect the rotation of the wheel's movement through the sensor, but holding the motor in line with the sensor with that wheel attached seemed to work nonetheless, I don't know if it'll work so well when I do an actual paper feed and not just a bootup test. That's a problem for later though. Gotta fix this paper feed motor issue first.
That's a great idea.the weight of the tray can be a problem and cause the pf motor to prematurely burn out, i now have an aluminium tray that works well, bought from an ebay metal sheet seller, i just supplied the dimensions, he cut it to fit and even put the bend and drilled the holes to attach it to the drawer slide, cost £25, worth every penny.