T-Shirt Forums banner

21 - 40 of 210 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
443 Posts
inside the printhead is also a sensor (dont know if also in the 1400) that checks if something is under the printhead.

im not actually sure about it but i once owned this wacky chinese dtg. it was giving me constant troubles with all lights blinking.
it had a white strip on the platen straight under the printhead. the part under the head broke off oneday and i got only errors. when i flipped the stip so the other end would sit under the head, it solved the errors.
i couldnt really see a sensor but having something white there made it work again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
443 Posts
not very likely, but maybe its the reason why in your setup it only works with the rip. we should look at the chematics. perhaps there is a unknown sensor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,235 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
not very likely, but maybe its the reason why in your setup it only works with the rip. we should look at the chematics. perhaps there is a unknown sensor
OK team, this weekend I will commit myself to understanding the exact mechanisms in place and the procedural functions of the 1400. I will post a write up as soon as possible...

Bob ?;O)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
I've posted a number of pictures and comments about the epson 1400 on the yahoo group
homemade_dtg : Homemade_DTG Direct to Garment Printer

I've extracted all the mechanisms and so far I've discovered three main switches involved in the 1400, the CD tray switch (which should be shorted IMO so it doesn't trigger cd mode) the rotary sensor which will probably be the hardest to counter, and the PE switch which tells the printer there is something printable there. I'm rather doubtful about a printhead sensor, but Epson has some weird things in there. I've had epson models that have had jammed paper which caused the PE switch to trigger and it would continue printing on nothing so long as the carriage didn't jam (making an inky mess on the absorbent strip in the platen area, which is only there to absorb ink when doing full bleed prints)

As long as the rotary sensor completes one pass on startup, I can get it to power on without any complaints.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
I looked over those, I didn't see any pics of his actual mod, but I got some ideas from the other pictures nonetheless. I'm still going to be stuck at a point unless I can get some flatflex cables and "couplers" of some kind that I can extend most of the electronics away and from the print module and then I can cut away the excess metal.

I'm wondering how I can redirect the paper feed motion making the printer move down a tray it seems much easier than moving the platen with belts/gears.

I know there's alot of information here, but I'm having difficulty meshing it to the 1400. this might be a bit more carpentry than I bargained for. And I don't have the metalworking skills Sahne has to make such a nice looking table with the screw drive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,235 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
I looked over those, I didn't see any pics of his actual mod....
I thought we were discussing the rotary sensor.... Here's his mod...

[media]http://www.t-shirtforums.com/attachments/9109d1241692809-epson-r1900-service-manual-dscf2059.jpg[/media]
Couldn't you take any ribbon cable and hack to work? I think you can find product to couple cables....

Bob ?;O)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
840 Posts
I looked over those, I didn't see any pics of his actual mod, but I got some ideas from the other pictures nonetheless. I'm still going to be stuck at a point unless I can get some flatflex cables and "couplers" of some kind that I can extend most of the electronics away and from the print module and then I can cut away the excess metal.

I'm wondering how I can redirect the paper feed motion making the printer move down a tray it seems much easier than moving the platen with belts/gears.

I know there's alot of information here, but I'm having difficulty meshing it to the 1400. this might be a bit more carpentry than I bargained for. And I don't have the metalworking skills Sahne has to make such a nice looking table with the screw drive.
doing it the first time around and making the tray move underneath the printer just like the c88 plans is the simplest way of making it work, just make the tray wider and organise the gears like in the image attached (thats a R1800 but the 1400 is the same) you can sling the power supply/motherboard along the side initially without extending cables (apart from the pf motor cable) get it working then mess about with upgrades to the original spec that we know works. You will at least make progress this way, just my two pence.....
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,235 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Steve,

Thanks for chiming in... You are proving what I've been saying. The rotary sensor is necessary for the operation of the unit. It counts the number of turns to ensure that the platen is moved the correct number of steps. So, no matter what mechanism is moving the platen, it needs to be countered by this sensor to ensure the platen is moving properly instep with the print head.

Bob ?;O)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Thanks much for the pictures, that helps me determine what's necessary and what isn't so far. How is the tray moving the platen below the printer is my question, I've removed my paper tray completely and I'm in the process of building a bypass for the rotary sensor in the ASF, since it seems the ASF is not needed at all for anything once it's all hacked apart. I see you used what appears to be cabinet glides, the only down side to this I can see is that you can't adjust for the height of the item. These are the questions I have about your design:
1. how is the paper feed motor moving the platen/drawer glides, are you using rubber tires that move the platen underneath or what? I'd really appreciate some closer pictures if possible of the underside of the platen/moving assembly
2. During the startup of the 1400, which should be the same as the 1800, the rotary sensor needs to be tripped, this i figured out, the next step seems to be that motor that lifts the head and the entire bar that the carriage glides on and when it reaches it's max height, the PE switch get triggered, I haven't checked to see if this is necessary or not.
3. I assume you cut all the metal out of the bottom of the unit in order to allow the platen to pass within range of the head, about how close do you have it? I'm curious the max range to prevent fuzziness of print.
Thanks so much for the assistance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
840 Posts
Thanks much for the pictures, that helps me determine what's necessary and what isn't so far. How is the tray moving the platen below the printer is my question, I've removed my paper tray completely and I'm in the process of building a bypass for the rotary sensor in the ASF, since it seems the ASF is not needed at all for anything once it's all hacked apart. I see you used what appears to be cabinet glides, the only down side to this I can see is that you can't adjust for the height of the item. These are the questions I have about your design:
1. how is the paper feed motor moving the platen/drawer glides, are you using rubber tires that move the platen underneath or what? I'd really appreciate some closer pictures if possible of the underside of the platen/moving assembly
2. During the startup of the 1400, which should be the same as the 1800, the rotary sensor needs to be tripped, this i figured out, the next step seems to be that motor that lifts the head and the entire bar that the carriage glides on and when it reaches it's max height, the PE switch get triggered, I haven't checked to see if this is necessary or not.
3. I assume you cut all the metal out of the bottom of the unit in order to allow the platen to pass within range of the head, about how close do you have it? I'm curious the max range to prevent fuzziness of print.
Thanks so much for the assistance.
to answer your questions:

1. im useing the paper roller to move the tray, the tray has no skid tape underneath to give it something to grip on just like the original c88 plans, im surprised at how robust a setup that has proved to be, i have been running the 1160 for well over a year and thousands of prints and im still on the original paper roller and drawer slide, i have changed the no skid tape once.

2. if i understand you correctly there isnt anything you need to do about that part, just let it do its thing, there is a switch for the dvd/cd tray that has to be in the right prosition or it errors, only two positions, you will work it out :)

3. i have attached a piccy of the underside where the platen goes through, i cut out everything i needed with a little rotary saw and diamond tipped blades, best tool i ever bought! the gap needs to be around 4 - 5mm from printhead to shirt, out of the lint line of the shirt and a little more, that platen in the piccy was a bit to high and needed to be another 1 - 1.5mm lower away from the head.

a question for you all, on my older A3 dtg 1160 printer there is a lever on the side that can adjust the head height by about 1mm, which i have found very handy, its meant for printing on thick media such as envelopes, can you get the 1800/1400 version to do this ? i know it can as the bar goes up and down on boot up, obviously there is no manual lever, so how ? i never figured it out on the old 1800 setup.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Ok, I just finished cutting some bits out of the printer, I now have the paper feed bar (with the decoder wheel) removed and ready to be placed somewhere, overall it seems like a robust enough method, i'm going to skip out on my idea of using the ball screw drive as this setup should give me all the features I really need (to print on light shirts and if I ever get the desire, I can fiddle around with the RIP to try doing white)
I'm currently just shorting wires together for the cd tray switch, there's no reason to have a switch there if it's never going to be used, this puts it in the always paper mode (cd tray mode raises the print head) maybe I'll pull something in later after I have a working unit. I'm going to get the pieces together to build the drawer then and let everyone know how it goes, this is more hobby than professional. I've also never actually seen the last half of the plans from the c88 diydtg so I guess I'll have to locate those for the rest of the build. I'm planning on using MDF for the drawers and/or the platen, that last pic looks like a professionaly made platen from one of the commercial DTGs, where did you get that one?

So for everyone, in case anyone wants a breakdown of the 1400 boot up,

Power Switch, Rotary sensors (there's 2 of them, this is the part where it raises the print carriage), Paper feed roller (decoder wheel sensor) AND the ASF rotary sensor are both triggered and polled simultaneously. Carriage returns and parks on the cleaning station. If at this point you didn't wire/tape up the CD/DVD switch, it will attempt to switch to CD Tray mode. If the CD Tray switch is not rigged when you power it on, you may get a general error.

It seems on almost all my bootups so far, the printer things that there was a paper jam so it does the slow carriage move to detect the carriage position, perhaps after I get everything together it will stop doing this.

I'm going to order in the bulk ink system and try with that, refilling cartridges is too much of a hassle for me.
Going to post more pictures on the yahoo group of the final stage of teardown.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
840 Posts
i get my platens in a kit form, there is a great plastics seller on ebay in the uk, i order a a4 and a3 sheet of acrylic for the top and bottom and get the tubeing for the legs cut to length, then just glue it all together, costs about £20 per platen, not height adjustable though which is a pain in the rear.
The slow swoosh seems a normal part of a diy epson printer, all the ones i have done do it, i think its because one of the smaller rollers you removed has a bit of plastic on it that sticks up, when the printer first powers on it moves to the right, hits the end then normally moves left and hits the bit of plastic, then continues on its power up routine, with it removed it goes straight to the far end (painfully slowly!)then returns, at this point it checks the step sensor on the main roller wheel (the bit on the right in the piccy one page back), if thats not aligned just right it makes a big spin on the roller then errors, alignment on that sensor is crucial.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Thanks for the info on the platen, I'd be concerned with the static that acrylic might cause, but if you've done ok with it we'll probably go the same way. We have a laser engraver/cutter so we can slice up some acrylic or lexan sheet ourselves and/or possibly make our own specialty platens. We also use the laser engraver for burning images into leather & denim like Levi's does from their website, it's a handy tool to have :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
I went looking for drawer glides for this 1400 mod, and if I'm figuring the correct travel distance needed for the platen/drawer according to the diydtg plans, I'd need a glide about 42" long, I can't seem to find anything that would come close. I'm assuming that I only need enough area so that the platen/drawer could be exactly 19" behind where the printing starts and 19" ahead of the print area, so 38" slide, which I still can't find. I guess unless someone can give me a poke in the right direction as to how to solve the travel issue without using a ball drive, I'd appreciate it. is there a way to put slides end to end where there wouldn't be a hang up during the printing process? or maybe I'm overcomplicating this.
 
21 - 40 of 210 Posts
Top