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Discussion Starter #1
Since I'm in both the Yahoo homemade_dtg group and these forums I am going to post this here as well... In order to prevent the CD-R sensor from tripping you have to remove the latch that tells the printer that the door has been opened. Opening the door is the start of the sequence that tells the printer you are going to print a CD-R...

If you have built a 1400 based DTG we would appreciate if you would share your finding here...

Thanks,

Bob ?;O)
 

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Hi, I just wanted to let you guys know that after reading all the forums including the yahoo message board, that we're sticking our toes into the Epson 1400 and it's convertability to a DTG, however I have some other plans for it as well. Since I haven't posted in the diydtg board before I'll give a quick rundown on my experience: I've owned a Flexi Jet S series (awful unit IMO, had serious issues with static which caused it to need to be powered off after almost every print and this was in the middle of summer, not winter when static is worse) Then I had purchased a poorly maintained T-jet 2 off ebay which I reconditioned and resold (including a fully clogged print head which I was able to bring back to life after it had sat in storage with a full ink system for 6 months) I've torn down and rebuild a 2200 and an R800 (not for DTG purpose though) and now I've just purchased a brand new 1400 and a CIS for it that I'll be tearing down and attempting to develop a dtg with.
The additional plans I have for it are attempting to use two of the ink channel LcLm for a 2 channel white ink just because there is (imo) no point in using LcLm dtg inks as it work necessarily improve the quality of the output colors for the most part. the only thing I'm hitting a brick wall on so far is the RIP. I have a number of RIP programs but none specifically address the 1400 and I'm hoping to pick up some assistance from the community as to suggestions for a RIP that I can forcibly direct the printer to print ONLY from certain channels somehow. I know it was done with Flexi's RIP and any white capable rip for that matter, so I just need some ideas in this department, and I'll be glad to share all my findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ryan,

This is very interesting. Your experience with early DTGs should prove helpful in your creating a DIY DTG. Do you feel it is absolutely necessary to use a RIP? My plan is to use two 1400s, one setup with white and another using all color DTG inks... The high cost of a RIP precludes me from doing it any other way.... 1400s are very affordable in comparison.

Bob ?;O)
 

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Bob,
True, the 1400 are cheap (around $160 through my vendor... WHEN they have them though) but since both of the commercial DTGs I've used both were white capable 8 channel, I've seen the "best" the industry has to offer in white ink and frankly neither of them are very good (again imo your mileage may vary) in both cases, regardless of pre-treatment methods the white ink peeled after it was "cured" and never lasted more than about 2 washes. But in both cases, the units had registration problems where the color would just not quite line up with the white and I can only imagine the nightmare you'd have if you printed white on a completely separate printer and attempted to move that platen to another unit, that's just my two cents though. the white ink in my case (since I have only 2 channels) would be purely experimental though since I'm not very impressed with the ink quality etc. and in my case, yes I would need a RIP to force the unit to print from only certain ink heads. If you want to do light colored shirts only which the results look good on grey, beige, and white, then you don't need a RIP. RIP software isn't as expensive as it seems though, to tell the truth i have 4 different packages installed from playing with the previous printers, one that would be compatible with the 2400 (t-jet) and one that's compatible with the 4800 (flexijet) and two others for roland printers, luckily the software doesn't stop being functional when you disconnect the printers. The Flexijet rip appears to be Multi-Rip just rebranded for the unit. I have a feeling since purchasing FlexiCut (vinyl cutting software) that the rip that comes with that might do exactly what I need without any extra expense.
Whew, Sorry for being long winded here, but when I actually start doing the teardown, I'm going to be very detailed :)
 

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i dont think you will be able to get the 1400 to trip the paper sensor correctly as it essentialy a 1800 chassis with a smaller channel head, i tried for days to get the 1800 to trip the sensor in the same way the d88 does and it just wouldnt do it without a rip, does the above working dtg 1400 come with some kindof rip ? im not saying it cant be done manually, but if it is the same as a 1800 paper switch/sensor i think it will prove a challenge.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i dont think you will be able to get the 1400 to trip the paper sensor correctly as it essentialy a 1800 chassis with a smaller channel head, i tried for days to get the 1800 to trip the sensor in the same way the d88 does and it just wouldnt do it without a rip...
Steve, this is confusing... There is an example of a DIY DTG printer by Bob Bristol on Youtube... He doesn't have the T-Shirt aligned but it is definitely printing and I believe without a RIP. How would a RIP cause the sensor to trip at the correct time?

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oknfJiEhlXc[/media]

Bob ?;O)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Steve,

Check out the "Epson R1900 Service manual" thread... The photos I shared are an 1800. This guy has it down to a science... You can tell he has a couple of these units. He repositioned the PE Sensor so that it was tripped by the platen, not the shirt.

Bob ?;O)
 

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i think your getting your diy dtg'smixed up, the 1800 switch picture you just used is by a user called jacqolie from the old dtg forums, we both built our 1800's around the same time, he couldnt get it to trip without a rip either. Maybe the 1400 is a bit different in the switch department, i dunno.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Steve,

I don't know what I'm getting confused. The video from Youtube is a 1400 and the switch is an 1800. Fair enough, You have experience in this. Can you explain how the RIP is going to trip the sensor? This does not make sense to me.

Bob ?;O)
 

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i meant confused on the 1800, jacqolie has never said anywhere he didnt need a rip to trip the sensor, i dont know why it trips with a rip, i was just happy at the time that it did trip it, i tried manually for days, taking 1/16th increments on platen position almost all the way over it, hundreds of attempts, it just wouldnt do it. with a rip you can place the platen anywhere and it just works, Why? no idea, something to do with the rip driver i would imagine.
Now i havent actualy stripped down and played with a 1400 but as i said above its based on a very similar chassis to a 1800, so i would imagine the paper switch sensor and driver part to be similar, so you might hit the same problem and without a rip there isnt a obvious solution, but yes i can see the vid above of one working so somebody found a way around it, thats assuming the paper sensor is the same as a 1800, it might work without it as standard.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Steve,

Well that is interesting. I know you have to have a RIP if you want to split the ink channels to print CYMK + 4 White but this is the first time I've heard anyone say they had to use a RIP to trip the sensor.

I'm guessing your issue has something to do with the paper length mechanism (I'll have to look it up, can't remember the actual name) but it still doesn't register why the PE sensor would care about the RIP...

I'll let you know what I find with the 1400.

Bob ?;O)
 

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Ok, I've pretty much stripped down the 1400 to it's basic components, now the hard part is making sure it stays functional. since it's a brand new system I didn't put any ink into it, so upon power on, the unit goes through all it's tests and comes up with an ink light on the control panel simply meaning there's no cartridges. I'm thinking it may be necessary to actually program a new logic board to make sure every fires in the correct order on a power on. I removed the paper feeder unit from the back (the paper tray motor and left the sensor for the paper tray connected) and that resulted in a general error when powering on, if I can't remove a single sensor and keep it from producing general error, I'm not sure where to start on this, during the power on sequence it gives the paper tray motor a full rotate which spins a wheel between a sensor that only trips the sensor for about 1/4 of a second (I'll post pictures shortly) and without it, boom general error.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ryan,

That rotary sensor tells the printer that the paper has been fed the correct distance. You won't get anywhere without cartridges installed. The PE sensor needs to be tripped when the T-Shirt gets where it is positioned.

In the C88 model, people have attached a spring to connect with the T-Shirt platen when it passes under. You can do this manually by holding it in a triggered position. Be prepared for a mess from the heads printing ink while your doing it.

Steve on the other hand suggests one might need a RIP but Bob Bristols design leads me to believe this won't be necessary.

I need to sit down and study how the mechanisms work...

Bob ?;O)
 

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I'm hoping to find some more technical solution, i.e. being able to program a PIC chip that I can hook up to each individual sensor to allow it to trigger everything on each power up so at the very least I don't have to worry about the power up sequence, then it seems there are two switches as you said that have to be taken into account for ever "paper" feed, first being the rotary sensor so it know that the paper tray fed the paper in far enough to be grabbed by the rollers, which in the process triggers what I'll call the "paper exists" switch up until the point the printer chooses to eject the paper, or the switch untrips making the printer complain it's out of paper, the latter switch is easy to control, the rotary one, it seems not so much. Are there other sensors I'm not seeing that have already been sussed out that I should know about?
 
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