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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to buy an Epson1100 I believe. I have read in here a good bite and don't seem to find answers I am looking for

1} If you use a CIS system, do you fill all cartridges with black and set each C-M-Y-K at 100%? I had read one guy saying this but couldn't clarify if all ink was black in each cartridge. I have screen printed forever but first time to be doing all this so new to film output.. Will all heads print black then???

I am not wanting to buy a RIP if I don't have too as I was going to get Steve Yates sep program that seems to do same thing.
 

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I am going to buy an Epson1100 I believe. I have read in here a good bite and don't seem to find answers I am looking for

1} If you use a CIS system, do you fill all cartridges with black and set each C-M-Y-K at 100%? I had read one guy saying this but couldn't clarify if all ink was black in each cartridge. I have screen printed forever but first time to be doing all this so new to film output.. Will all heads print black then???

I am not wanting to buy a RIP if I don't have too as I was going to get Steve Yates sep program that seems to do same thing.

Call Richard over at Cobra Inc.com Best investment I've ever made was his CIS sytstem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did and he was on phone. I have switched to get the new 7510 as its 1100 replacement. Anyways, I am still lost on if it will only use the one black cartridge or pull from all. I will get there. Art dept for me has never been as I have always had an artist but need to retain some in house now
 

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Yes the answer to your question. If you change to all black then make your color 100CMYK it will print all black from each channel. Don't get me wrong here but I love the cobra inks for heat transfer but I tried filling all black with their dye ink and it doesn't compare to blackmaxx ink. I buy it in liter size from ryonet. There are a few other inks that are specifically for films that work just as well but most cost about the same as the blackmaxx. Dye ink designed for film out put has extra UV blockers. Unless cobra screwed up when they sent me ink as I told them what I wanted to do. You can see the difference in the bottle. I do a lot of halftones and simulated process and it is important to have the best films possible. Good film is just as important cause cheap film won't hold as much ink.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great, I read many you have posted and hoped you would answer back. Let me ask you, what I am going to do is get the new 7510, I can get the cis from Cobra and will take your advice on Blackmax ink. Now, when I get the simple seps program, will it allow all channels as well and give me the density we need for halftones? I am doing art for first time ever as I had stepped away from printing for years as I grew up around so back in. I do all discharge per say but love the simulated as well and really believe few can print it well so I don't want to screw this learning curve up.
 

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Your in luck if you want to use simple seps. Tom is currently making it so that it prints all black without having to covert after separation. It should be in the next few days. If you have already bought or buy now you will get the upgrade free of charge. Yes if you use the blackmaxx and choose photo or best photo and premium photo glossy or matte. You can adjust the standard settings and paper and get great results. DO NOT CHECK GRAYSCALE. You will see this mentioned a lot and if you check that box you will only print from the black channel. You can play with the saturation and other advanced setting but I can tell you in 5 years of printing I have never changed any of those settings and I can put my films on exposure unit and not 1 bit of light comes though. I have had Tom's simple seps for years and it does a great job on vector and monochrome bitmaps. I also use a few products by Steve Yates for raster images. He also has some cool picture to cartoon tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great, if you have any other advice pertaing to printer, that would be awesome and I really appreciate. I also looked at Yates stuff and was gonna go there as well. I moved to Paducah Ky from Dallas with my GF. In my opinion, there is no worthy "apparel" oriented printers here so I believe I will do well. All of this stuff is new to me with art, and films as we always had artist doing. I know what to do but I don't know what to do if that makes sense..lol Not worried about the printing but this has been a challenge as it is so critical as you mentioned and I want it to be error free and sling some awesome ink again. I used to write articles back in day for Printwear on waterbase asmy Dad was an originator with it back in 70's. My how tech has changed and love it. I remeber when I used to hate Corel 4 and kept hand cutting.
 

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I am not firmiluar with the newer printer but reviews have been good. I looked up your location and you are far away from the big cities so ya do a couple of nice jobs and you'll do fine. I am in a area saturated with printers and I do ok. I have 2 business and split my time between. Anything I can help you with feel free to contact me. If you pm I'll give you my email. I have a lot of printer experience. I used to do photography and graphic design. I figured out the 100 CYMK on my own in 06 to get printer to fire on all channels. I had a lot of experience with adobe products so manual separations was easy to figure out but I really like the time saving with simple seps and spot me. You can get trial of simple seps I think. Steve Yates has trials of his Corel add ons on his web site. I do have the black line extreme but that is the only Corel add on I have of his everything else is adobe add ons. I didn't find the TSF till 09 wish I had found it back in 06 when I started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In general question and understanding, how does the printer know to 'fire on all' if you are running a black only print? I am so mechanical and figuring out stuff but this has had me stumped. Yes the 7510 is the new 1100. I will do the "free "downloads as well and get used to them as festival season is here as well. I laughed at the printers here. I talked to one today and they wanted 9.10 a shirt for a 2-1 on 100pcs. I haven't seen that price range forever when shirts were made in USA. i THINK THE PEOPLE HERE are behind and like in a prison. Dallas was a rough ,competitive market and have clients there as well and ship to many elsewhere but this homebase is good. I also used to go drive east Texas and bank out there as they are forgotten as well in country.
 

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Ok so after you have your serration plate. You check the color it is usally 0C 0M 0Y 100K. You change to 100C 100M 100 Y 100K. This forces the printers to print on all channels. You would change to this for all black. If you were using the color plus black it would be 100C 100M 40Y 100K or maybe a lighter mixture of cyan and magenta. The printer knows to print what you tell it to print. Simple seps when converting a halftones converts the image to a bitmap. Now this does create a small issue if you are wanting to print from all channels. I have never taken the time to learn much about photo paint so I open in photoshop and use the paint fill and magic wand. Can be a pain that's why the updated simple seps is needed. From my understanding this will happen automatically to print from all channels. I bought out a shop a while back and they had fastrip 9.0, I was able to upgrade to filmmaker for $195. So I don't have to do the bitmap conversions. But whe working with spot colors in vector I still use the old method. As I mentioned good film is very important for 2 reasons. 1 the cheaper film won't hold all the ink and will either run or spread out. 2 cheaper film is not as clear. R-film is good but pricey. Dmax4 works great. Fixxon films are as great. The last 2 are a cheaper option. I printed several films starting with photo and premium photo glossy. Then best photo and same paper. Some films I can even use the ultra premium photo paper setting but I recommend you start as mentioned above till the ink just starts to puddle slightly. If you start with the high setting ink may run inside your printer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey man, you are really helping me bigtime. I have been looking for these answers for a week in panic mode and I couldn't get SS or Yates to answer me. I always bought my film and all supplies from GSG in Dallas or Caseys Page Mill but that is vellumn there. Yeah, if I can whip this, printing, screens, ink values and so on for a top of the line shirt is no issue. I just want to get some good shirts out as all is basic stuff here and not like you do or what IU did. I guess I will give it all a shot and I am sure I will holler at ya whining. If I had any real problems, I would love to talk on phone to walk through as I picked up 2 clients today and one is a 5 color with halftones so the heat is on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Dallas has a really nice apparel design district. Paducah is just a small 60k person ky area tat has many business' that are underserved as I prove to myself time and time again. They aren't getting called on or Aramark has them wrapped up which I love with the high prices. Regardless, big fish stepped into the small pond. We used to do tons of panel program printing for years for shirt makers using waterbase which is what I use 90% of the time. However, we never have perfected simulated process with discharge,pretty close and I would love to meet someone that can to give me the missing link
 

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I don't do discharge or water base but many jobs with simulated and plastisol ink. Pm me with email I'll send you an email in my sig has my phone number and all contact info.
 
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