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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

We're trying to embroider on Dri-fit shirts. You know, the 100% polyester moisture wicking shirts. We are having fits with them. What should we be using as backing? Stabilizer? Needle size? Needle type? We're embroidering a golf company's logo to the left chest area. Our threads keep shredding and it's eating holes in the shirts! Please, someone help us! Thanks!!

-Greg
[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok. That's what we're using as well. So, good to know we're doing that part right. Do you think the "sticky back" backing for frameless hooping would work well for a backing? What about a topping? Was thinking of using some "solvy"...??
 

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Backing-no show mesh. We use 2 layers
If the top tension is too tight and bottom tension is too loose you will fray because it's holding the thread too tight.
Shredding could be caused by a burr on the needle. Is you needle in correctly?
70/10 ball needle
If it has texture to the shirt (highs & lows) we use solvay. Don't use solvay with the expectation of fixing the problems.
Take caution when removing topping. You don't want to pull the threads.
Hooping-don't over stretch the shirt.
If you have a lot of small stitches in your design you will get holes and shredding of the thread.
 

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I use one layer of a fusible mesh and one piece of no-show poly mesh. Works great with me. Dri-fits tend to have a lot of stretch to them and the fusible helps to keep the material from "bunching" in front of the needle.
 

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We use one piece of a soft cutaway and a piece of solvy, 75 ball point needles, same isacord, same tensions, same hooping etc as any typical knit. Werun DriFit and the other tech materials all the time with no issues.

Since you say it is fraying AND leaving holes, it sounds like your design is packing in too many needle penetrations too close together OR it is full of short stitches. If you'd like for me to look at the design I'd be happy to.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you everyone for all your advice and help. I finally got them to sew without a problem. I was using one sheet of lightweight cutaway and one sheet of weblon. The problem seemed to be that I had a case of the stupids and didn't put solvy on the the fabric as I was sewing it. And one of the presser feet was a little to high so it caused the thread to shred. As soon as I fixed the presser foot and applied solvy I didn't have any other problems :)

thank you again!

Kimberly (Greg's Sister)
 

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I have used 2 pieces of the no-show poly mesh backing for all designs on the 100% poly moisture wicking fabric and they always turn out nice and flat and soft in the hand. Used to use 2 pieces of med. cut-away and the designs were stiff, even though they did sew pretty well. The poly mesh is a wonderful, even though a little costly. It's worth it if you are a perfectionist like me...lol. It comes in both white and black.
 

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I use one piece of soft cut-away. And fully cover the hoop. Be carful not to stretch the fabric when hooping.
As you can read by previous posts, it's a what-works-best for you, with your machine, thread and set-up (needles, tension). I tend to run the machine slower too.
 

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Can anyone tell me what a tear would look like if caused by an embroidery machine? I don't really have a leg to stand on, I know - but would like to at least let this embroiderer know that I KNOW he's lying to me.
I don't embroider and don't know anything about the machines, etc. My customer specifically requested Dri-fit golf shirts. I was having a hard time finding vinyl that would stay on an Adidas Dri-fit Golf shirt, so decided to have them embroidered for the customer. These adidas shirts come to me individually packaged in their own bag, and that's how they were delivered to the embroiderer. I went to pick them up today and he showed me a "tear" in one of the shirts. He said when he took it out of the bag, it was already torn. "but of course, we won't charge you for that one." It's kind of a V shaped tear, center chest (right under the buttons) and about 2 inches or so to the left of the embroidery (left chest logo).

1. If you saw that it was torn when you took it out of the bag, would you go ahead and embroider it (and then not charge me for doing it, since it's obvious that this shirt is not wearable)?
2. I would think that since each shirt was in its own package, that the package would be damaged as well. No. Every bag that the shirts were delivered to him in, is still in perfect condition.

I'd just like to somewhat know that this kind of tear is a possibility before I confront him with these questions. Based on the original posting on this thread, I think is definitely is. My customer has already paid me for the shirt, which I will now have to refund him. That's $70 out of my pocket. Not happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Jacsma,

Yes that is completely possible if they had the garment hooped to tight and were using dull needles or if when they took it off the machine they ran it across the needles on accident. If it was damaged out of the package (yes I get some from adidas and nike occasionally) then they should have replaced it and then embroidered it. I think they are trying to give you the run around honestly. I wouldn't embroider anything that had a snag on it that I noticed that had just come from the factory. I go over my garments with a fine tooth comb, and when I find a defect I let the supplier know and the item is replaced and THEN I embroider it.
 

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jacsma, If it was damaged out of the packet then we wouldn't embroider it and would contact the customer to sort it out.

If possible could you post a photo or a link to a photo, I'm pretty sure I know what caused the v tear but would need to see it to confirm.

Also was it embroidered with cut away backing?
 

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Sounds like the garment was nipped with scissors when cutting away the pellon. Another possibility is the fabric where the cut is was caught up in the hoop and had to be cutaway. These are all things that occur during the learning process of embroidery. It is how you handle them that sets you apart from the pack.
 

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Sounds like the garment was nipped with scissors when cutting away the pellon. Another possibility is the fabric where the cut is was caught up in the hoop and had to be cutaway. These are all things that occur during the learning process of embroidery. It is how you handle them that sets you apart from the pack.
My thoughts exactly, You will be able to tell straight away from a photo, the nip is quite distinctive.
 

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Thanks to all for your input. I know there's not much I can do, as he didn't sign anything saying that he received x number of shirts in good condition, etc. I just need to know I have justifiable reason to never do business with him again. He's the only (as far as I know) embroiderer in town, so next time - I'll just ship my shirts to an honest businessperson to handle it.
 

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Could someone please help as i am having problems embroidering on 95% Cotton and 5% Elasthane the material is puckering. Any needle changes, speeds etc. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

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I was having the same problem with the Nike Dri Fit shirts. It would tear a hole in the exact same place in the design everytime. I finally ended up just slowing down the machine. I'm sure it was because there were too many stitches packed in.
 
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