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Hello everyone, new DTG HM-1 owner here, have been experiencing issues with color shifts after curing with white ink, example after print comes out of printer, bright orange, after curing 1 min to 2 min, as book says, print becomes dull and color shifts from bright orange to dull orange, why is this?, has anyone else had this problem?, any advice would be greatly appreciated, also print was cured at 340 degrees for 1 to 2 min as book instructs, thanks.
 

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The inks do fade when cured, and are less bright then when first printed. I would lower your temp to 330 as 340 may be scorching the top layer of the ink, and not curing the bottom layer as much.

Also what kind of pressure are you using? I would use the least pressure as possible. Also you might want to try increasing your saturation about 5 to 10 percent on the image to allow for the fading. It all has to do with learning what settings work best :)
 

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USB is fine for a printer connection. We aren't sending loads of data to the printer. If you are having buffering problems is most likely something else.

If you have problems with the inks why didn't you notice them before you purchased the machine? You should have done more research and become fully aware of how the DTG inks are at this stage. If it wasn't fine for you then perhaps you should not have purchased.
 

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Have you tried hovering your press over the image for 20 seconds or so before pressing? This will help maintain your color because your ink is dry before it's pressed.
 

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Hovering the press will help. Or you can try profiling colours to your liking or adjusting the artwork colours. Either way, color shifts are bound to happen after to curing. To some its not a problem, but it seems you have high expectations that probably can't be met with current state of DTG.

re the USB. The Epson 2400 is a popular machine and USB issues will be minor and easily corrected. you need to explain what problems you think the USB problem is causing. The USB cord has worked fine for thousands of DTG owners over countless makes/models.
 

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The Research you refer too, was never mentioned or talked about by my dealer to me , until the purchase was made
you are are not talking to a laymen here, I have been designing digital art for 25 years, no ink, and I mean no ink, should change brightness to that extent, unless
there is a problem with the ink, just check the forums here, I am not the only one having these issues,
and everyone can't be wrong!
The printer has many issues, and the software RIP
has them too, I was told this machine could print anything on the monitor, quite the contrary, it cannot even reproduce glows properly without having a hideous white circle in the back that resembles a donut.
And as far as buffering issues, not likely with a quadcore intel with 4 gb ram.
i still stand by my opinion.
When you are talking about printing with a dtg compared to a versacamm you are talking eco solvent inks compared to water based inks, that is apples to oranges here. Also since your monitor is seen in RGB and you are printing in cmyk, it is not going to come out exactly what you see on your monitor, as they are different color profiles. If you want to see it be more accurate to your monitor, set your monitor to cmyk colors, then it will match more closely. It sounds like you need to learn more efficient ways of working with the color gamut of the dtg, instead of immediately trashing the product that it seems you have not taken much time yet to get to know. There are ways of adjusting the colors to match what you want but you need to take the time to learn them. Even if you have 25 years experience with other printers, these other printers I take it were not working with water based inks, and that is a whole other side to learn.

The rip pro I have never had a problem with, so I dont understand why you are having one. If you are having problems with it, you might want to try removing it and doing a clean install, as it might have gotten a glitch while installing.

I have never ever had an issue using my usb connection even after 2 1/2 years.

When making a purchase of this magnitude, it would seem common sense to do research. When you buy a car, do you research the car you are going to buy, or do you just randomly pick one and buy it? With the cost of dtg printers, anyone making that kind of a purchase, should always do research to make sure it fits their business, and make sure they are happy with the results they can get from a dtg machine. I did research, knew what I was buying and it has always met my expectations of it. When you went to see the distributor did you not get samples printed for you? How were they? It seems that when you went to see the dealer you were happy enough to buy it, or did you go see it before you purchased it?
 

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Please also keep in mind that you are now printing an image using white ink as well as CMYK. This takes on a whole arrray of different results when compared to using CMYK only.

This will have a lot to do with the "donut" effect that you mentioned.

You can use a teflon sheet for final cure and this will keep a high sheen effect to the finished print, personally I dont like it.

Profiles will need to looked at, however I can only support on Print Pro and not Rip Pro.

Regards
Jerry
DTG Digital
 

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Eventually you will find all of the right settings in the rip, and or in the heat press to get the quality of the color gamut that you want.

I've been through all of the research into all of the DTG Printers myself for 2-3 years. I've seen all of the samples and have done all of the wash tests to know that these machines do print great color and detail with great washability.

I did all of it before buying my $50k Roland UV Printer. I had a 2 minute learning curve on printing with the Versaworks software, as I have been doing Art Reproduction on an Epson 7800 for 3 years, and have used Photoshop since 1.0, and Freehand and Illustrator since 1989, but it took me a good 4-6 weeks to get the perf cutting down.

My number one rule when buying a machine is to prove that "It can do What I need it to" before buying it. They of course did beautiful perf cutting at Roland, when I tested the machine twice, but once I got the machine, I couldn't get it to cut clean, on my or any material. I thought the machine was flawed, and the tech guy couldn't fix it. I thought I bought a 50k piece of crap!! ... But once I talked to the original guy at Roland he said to adjust the cap on the blade, to just allow the tip of the blade to poke thru, and voila it cut perfectly...

Hopefully you have seen and approved of what these machines are capable of, when researching them. You now think that the color shift is due to the ink, but sooner or later you will figure out the settings, dial it in and get what you expect.

Hope this helps.
 

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All of these suggestions by other users are right on the money. There is one other piece of information that you need to understand, when printing digitally on to a piece of vinyl, you are printing on a solid substrate. It does not absorb any of think nor does it have an uneven surface. When printing on a t-shirt you basically are printing on a sponge that is very uneven. You need to compensate for this by optimizing your artwork and over saturate the colors. I have ran tests on various types of garments and so far the Anvil 980 is by far the best, but that doesn't mean the machine can't print on others. I am using Rip Pro and can match just about any color that I am trying to hit, but remember cmyk cannot match all PMS colors.
 

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Jeff it sound like you do not understand color management! Do you create ICC profiles for you vinyl printer, or are you using the canned profiles from the vendor? A printer will not match what is on the monitor, as stated above a monitor is RGB and printers are CYMK and these color spaces do not match but do have some overlapping gamuts!

Also when you buy anything do you just listen to salesmen? If so I would bet you have a lot of junk sitting around, almost all salesmen tell you what you want to hear so they can make a sale! Research is going out and seeing, testing and talking to other that have said item to see what they think and coming to you own opinion!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I understand color management fine, when printing to vinyl I always use the manufacturer profiles for that vinyl brand, with the exception of 3m because they only have Wasatch profiles, which are not compatible with Versaworks, I did find that the orajet 3951 RA profile prints beautiful to 3m Controltac wrap vinyl, in case you are using versaworks, this profile works very well on the 3m as well, as the cheaper vinyl for wholesale, like the orajet 3640
 

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Re: Apology to DTG owners and forum

Hi Guys, I am sorry I got off on the wrong foot, I had a very bad month with the equipment, which resulted in quite of few blown shirts, so I went off on the machine,
since my last posts, I think I have found out the problem
and feel more confident in the reliability and quality of the equipment, I do have one question though,
how do you show the customer an accurate color proof, do you actually print one shirt and let them see it beforehand, or do you show them on the monitor, and tell the customer that the color could change by 5 to 6% from what they are seeing?, again I apologize, I have also deleted my prior comments, because I did not want to discourage first time buyers with the comments I had made.
 

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As far as the dangerous comment, Vinyl Signs out of line, sorry but I do know color management,
I print vehicle graphics daily, and with precision i might add
in the srgb colorspace, with many satisfied customers over the years,
colors are vivid and match spot on, with orajet 3951 ra profiles,
choose your words more carefully next time,
you seem to be the one thinking that you know it all.
 

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Its ok :) I can understand learning the different way of printing with these printers that is different because you are printing on fabric and not a solid substrate, takes some getting used to :)

If its a sizable order I do print a sample for them, but if it is just a small order of a couple I do let them know, that the color may not be exact. Also what I do when adjusting files, is print a small image on a test shirt to make sure of the colors. That way I am not wasting a whole shirt but just a small area on a test shirt :) usually I will do an image around 4" x 4" for a test on a scrap shirt, before printing the actual image on the garments I am selling. I find its much more accurate to do a small test. Although with light color shirts I never need tests, sometimes on darks, you might need to do a test if it has alot of colors and gradients and such just to make sure.

What did you find your issue was if you dont mind telling us, so that it might help someone else in the future.
 

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Jeffmeister -

Again -

Play with the advance settings in the RIP and the Heat Press. Eventually you will dial in the settings and get the graduations and color that you want. It's all about the white settings and the amount of white Ink settings under black and the CMYK, to get a smooth graduation.

Bobbie Lees recommendation of printing 4" size prints - 4 up on each a side of a setup shirt will both save T-Shirts, time and Ink.

As for ICC Profiles, it seems like most of the DTG Printers I've dealt with - even from the Professionals at the Kornit Booth at ICC 2010 to my own Brother 782 Contract Printer , to even the wonderful Bobbie Lee don't use them in order to focus on "results" and use what works best. Even the HM1 manual pdf says to use the RGB monitor profile NTSC1957!!!

BTW, the "guy" at the Brother 2010 ISS Booth did use my imbedded ICC Profile and the result was spot on... but the Brother Rip is different in how it prints the 1st White than any of the Epson Rips I have seen...
 

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Jeffmeister, no real need to appologize everyone needs somewhere to vent. As for knowing color I have no doubt that you do as a digital printer on flat stock, however when printing with a Direct to Garment printer you need to stop thinking in that same way. We are screen printers and that was one of my biggest hurdles was not to think in the same way. The process, inks, curing, etc. are all different. Once you treat the DTG as its own "animal" you will learn the benefits from using it. I have had ours for almost 9 months and I am still learning. My favorite saying is "Think Outside of the Screen"!
 

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As far as the dangerous comment, Vinyl Signs out of line, sorry but I do know color management,
I print vehicle graphics daily, and with precision i might add
in the srgb colorspace, with many satisfied customers over the years,
colors are vivid and match spot on, with orajet 3951 ra profiles,
choose your words more carefully next time,
you seem to be the one thinking that you know it all.
You might understand the concept of color management but you could get better colors by creating your own Profiles than using canned! I asked you if you do your own ICC profiles and your reply was you use Orajet 3951ra, well to me that says it all! And glad to see you got you DTG figured out! And you were the one that came here saying how this equipment was junk and you knew all this as being in the graphics business for sooo long!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
There you go becoming insulting again, that says it all, you're saying it all when you think creating your own profiles is the answer, when all it takes, is finding something that works
remember when you assume anything about anyone, you become the first 3 letters of the word,
I don't have to justify my capability as a graphic artist to you
or anyone else, I just know I treat my customers fairly, and they have never complained about the color,
and their are alot of other companies in my area, who do
so pretty shabby work!:rolleyes:
 
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