Ohh those are tough! The first time I printed those, I used plastisol with naz-bond catalyst added. I had to run them thru the dryer at the fastest belt speed and the highest element setting from the belt. They still shrunk slightly, but the ink didn't chip off.
The next time, I used 7900 white corogloss, w/o any thinner so they would be opaque. As long as you have somewhere to dry them, this is the way to go. They dry in about 10 minutes, so I just layed them on any horizontal surface I could find!
If you really don't know what you're doing, use an appropriate air-dry ink. The plastisol with additive changes the cure properties and you have to be able to keep close tabs on temperature modified or not especially if the bags are a lighter weight material.
Now heavier nylon or polyester materials which are available in drawstrings will take more heat so you have a bit more latitude. The modified plastisol or poly ink you would use should cure at lower temps.
If you go the air-dry route you may get by with your usual stencil but care must be taken to lessen drying in the screen. Finer mesh and detailed images should be particularly watched. A retarder can be used, you can flood between prints or both. Check manufacturer for recommendations.
Yep--good info here. I just got thirty junky cheap bags to print yesterday that wouldn't take a FLASH without drawing up. They hit 300 degrees, they look like prunes. And it's pretty tough to do a two color air-dry.
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