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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm posting this in hopes it will help someone who has had the same questions that I had.
The image is a drawing of a girl setting on a hamburger holding french fries.
Yesterday I experimented with discharge printing and process printing.
I have done very little process printing before but not discharge.
My customer wanted black shirts with a multi-colored image. If I were to do spot colors it would have taken 9 screens. My machine is a Vastex V 2000 HD 6/4.
I decided to do a process print but I didn't want the hard feel of the white plastisol underlay because I would have had to flash it to get a vibrant white, (too thick).
I decided to try my hand at Discharge printing for the white underlay. I used Matsui Discharge White Base for this. Not a strong odor, It worked great.
I tried to do wet on wet with the white discharge under base and lay the process colors on top but it came out looking very washed out, it turned my colors into pastel colors, not vibrant at all.
So, I layed the white discharge under base and activated it with my spot dryer. This worked very well. I had the spot dryer about 6 inches away. After the image came out from the spot dryer I let it cool off by turning my machine to do the next image away from the dryer.
I layed all the process colors on top of each other wet on wet.
I set my oven belt on a very slow speed. The shirt stayed in the oven for about 45 - 50 seconds since the Discharge was started under the spot dryer.
I mixed my White Discharge Base at a ratio of 4% activator by weight to the Discharge White Base.
I used Wilflex Process C M Y K for the process printing.
I did my separations in Photoshop.
I did not halftone the white under base screen.
For the under base I used a 155 mesh screen.
For the CMYK screens I used 305 mesh screens with a halftone of 85 lpi (lines per inch).
I used an hp Laserjet 5200 to print my positives on Casey's Better Than Vellum.
For the White under base I treated this like a spot color.
I outputted my CMYK screens at a resolution of 600 pixels/inch since this is what my printer print at.

Cyan Screen 85 lpi Screen Angle of 75
Magenta Screen 85 lpi Screen Angle of 15
Yellow Screen 85 lpi Screen Angle of 105
Black Screen 85 lpi Screen Angle of 45

I was very happy with the outcome except that the skin color was very hard to achieve.
Next time I have something like this I think I will add another screen for just the skin (flesh color).
I posted these images of doing the job along the way.
If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask and I hope this will help any one who has had questions about things like this.
 

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It looks great but my main concern would be the ventilation of the flash cure area. If you plan on activating discharge by a flash I would try to set up a fan exhaust system to pull all the bad chemicals that burn off during the steaming process of discharging. That stuff is some nasty stuff to breath and can cause some serious health issues in the long run.
 

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It looks great but my main concern would be the ventilation of the flash cure area. If you plan on activating discharge by a flash I would try to set up a fan exhaust system to pull all the bad chemicals that burn off during the steaming process of discharging. That stuff is some nasty stuff to breath and can cause some serious health issues in the long run.
 

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DUDE... Thanks! I was going to try that this week. Thanks for a great post! I was wondering if that would work with the white discharge or would I have to use clear discharge and 3X process ink with a white highlight ink. U-DA-MAN!!!
 

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yes, what type of registration markes are you using on your screens?
and when you say "spot dryer" you mean the flash dryer, correct?
 

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WOW! Those are some nice shirts.
Registration is all on point too.
I really like the discharge printing and I hope to buy some and try it out.
Usually we don't do any under base and having to repeat to do 2x -3x yellow.
Because the white ends up thick like you said.
Fantastic prints man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I coated the bottom once and the squeege side twice. I used the thin side of my scoop coater. I will do a test to see what it will be like just coating each side once, and a test to see about coating just the squeege side once and not the bottom.
I was a little hard washing out the image after exposing the screen the way I did it.
I exposed the screen for 30 seconds on my table.
 

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Your skin tones were hard to achieve because your halftone count was too small. 85 line halftone is very hard to do manually to begin with and depending on your emulsion you likely lost key blending effects that would have happened better with a slightly lower halftone count like a 60 or 65 line dot, also if you set up your angles to all be at 22 degrees you will stack color and force a nicer blend on the shirt. With discharge underprints the manual press is certainly a good option for what you did. Photoshop tends to add black into skin tones on cmyk images. You might want to try and simplify your separation process by creating your own alpha channels in photoshop and pulling your desired colors into spot color channels based on just the colors and shades you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Your skin tones were hard to achieve because your halftone count was too small. 85 line halftone is very hard to do manually to begin with and depending on your emulsion you likely lost key blending effects that would have happened better with a slightly lower halftone count like a 60 or 65 line dot, also if you set up your angles to all be at 22 degrees you will stack color and force a nicer blend on the shirt. With discharge underprints the manual press is certainly a good option for what you did. Photoshop tends to add black into skin tones on cmyk images. You might want to try and simplify your separation process by creating your own alpha channels in photoshop and pulling your desired colors into spot color channels based on just the colors and shades you want.
Thanks for the info, I am going to be doing some tests today. I will try using some lower lpi. I will make my own alpha channels for my splits. I'll keep you posted on my progress.
 
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