T-Shirt Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I have been printing with discharge a lot lately and I have noticed some bright colors are fading out after 1 wash. Typically its bright red, greens, yellows, etc. I have not noticed the problem with grey, white or any pastel or neutral colors. The bright color will go from a super vibrant print to a dulled down almost pastelist version. The ink does not wash away, it retains full cover and detail, just dulls down. Am I using too little discharge activator? Not enough cure time? Both?

I cure at 360-390 for about 60 seconds. The prints are fully discharged when they come out of the dyer and look great, until washed.

What am I doing wrong here? I used to have the same problem with waterbed but I determined I was not evaporating all the water and on ink heavy prints I have to run them back through the dyer a second time to full cure them.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,083 Posts
It's most likely the cure time as mentioned above. You can cheat it a bit by going up to 360, but it still needs to totally evaporate - like regular WB inks. Higher temps above 360 don't help and can actually hurt.

Slow the belt, lower the temp and increase the time under the heat element.

If a print looks great, then is washed and it looks bad, I find it is pretty much always the curing time/temp that is the issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I agree slow down the dryer lower the temp increases the dwell time in the tunnel. The water needs to evaporate, this is why you see forced air dryers recommended for discharge curing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Hello, I have been printing with discharge a lot lately and I have noticed some bright colors are fading out after 1 wash. Typically its bright red, greens, yellows, etc. I have not noticed the problem with grey, white or any pastel or neutral colors. The bright color will go from a super vibrant print to a dulled down almost pastelist version. The ink does not wash away, it retains full cover and detail, just dulls down. Am I using too little discharge activator? Not enough cure time? Both?

I cure at 360-390 for about 60 seconds. The prints are fully discharged when they come out of the dyer and look great, until washed.

What am I doing wrong here? I used to have the same problem with waterbed but I determined I was not evaporating all the water and on ink heavy prints I have to run them back through the dyer a second time to full cure them.

Thanks

We looking for discharge ink for direct to garment printer help me please.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
When the pigment load is high, as with RED 186C, you might need to use a binder. It's almost like a watered down glue. I use Magna Colours I get through Nazdar. Their formulas add it when needed. Seems to help a lot with color fastness. Also, switching to a gas dryer helped us a great deal. you really need good airflow and descent dwell to cure and fully discharge the dyes from the cotton.

I have also used some CCI water based and discharge inks. They have a new premixed red that works really well (have not wash tested). They also have a line of florescent that work well.

Both companies have a computer based formula system. Again, I get mine through Nazdar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies. I determined after reading it on here and doing some tests it was my cure time. It was curing for 60 seconds at 360 but when I changed that to 120 seconds at 330 and did some wash tests the colors remained bright and vibrant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Hey there! Do you write down your formulas when you mix your inks? If so, look at the total amount of pigment in %. Sometimes your formula may have a super low pigment %! If you are not between 10-15% (I make my formulas as close to 20%) Pigment to Base, it will look “weak” either straight out of the dryer or after a wash. Definately not a curing issue if you see the bright colors after the cure. Uncured discharge looks burned or “wet”...
another thing is that because essentially, you dye the shirt. The dyes will fade along with the shirt! Sometimes it is shocking, but also compare the color of the shirt to an unwashed garment. You will see a pretty distinct difference and more noticable on cheaper shirts. So sometimes you go wooo, but just know what to expect when redying already dyed shirts. Its gonna vary quite a bit. Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
If you are not opposed to printing your discharge with plastisol, union inks make a plastisol discharge product called plasticharge that does a great job of using bright pigmented plastisol inks with a discharge additive. It makes the curing process quicker, the inks stay bright and you deal with less water base issues like inks drying in the screen or screens breaking down.

The resulting print feels a lot like water base discharge, and the printing process is so much less of a headache.

We still use waterbase for white discharge, but all the colored discharge from my shop is plasticharge from union.

check it out. Especially if you already have some union ink in your shop.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top