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Twinge said:
Might as well put an update to my situation here...

Doing pretty good. We're using a rolling pin and going up and down it for about 10 seconds after pressing it for 10 seconds. Also, I quickly peel up one corner/side just a little bit, and then peel across from the other side -- doing this nearly eliminates the problem I was having with the last little bit staying on the carrier paper partially instead of transfering. This sets the ink fairly well, but the edges of the letters still are a little flaky/not stuck down fully from the peeling motion. Also, very thin lines on a medium-sized design we tried don't do too well... I don't know if that's because they are just too thin or because our heat press is a little on the fritz (not enough pressure; right now we're using a big sweatshirt to thicken it and give more pressure, but now the shirts get a visible mark/crease on the edge where the press was) or what.

So... we've got some in good sellable condition now, but we still don't have it quite down to a science. Another question for you, Aeon: do you have any way of holding down the shirt so that it doesn't crease/wrinkle up (and occasionally shift the whole shirt) when you're rolling your pin over it? It seems to do okay regardless for the most part, but it did mess up at least one shirt and made others a bit harder to handle.
Hi Twinge,

Glad to hear that things are coming along. I still think you may be waiting just a little too long to peel the transfer. The same thing happens to me if I don't peel quick enough (10-15 seconds) As far as the lettering and thin sections go, there is one design in particular that I was concerned about when we started with plastisol transfers. By rolling it evenly for 10 seconds and then doing a quick peel, it comes off perfectly. Here is the example, and this is a pic of the shirt after it was pressed.

http://i15.ebayimg.com/02/i/04/98/6f/74_1_b.JPG

In regards to holding the shirt steady when rolling it after pressing, we roll very small sections at a time, only going like an inch or two in each direction. I honestly think it helps and logic would seem to agree with the even pressure that the rolling pin provides. If it is a large design, like my poke shirt, I can "anchor" the bottom of the shirt with my knee and give it added stability. Our 15x15" press is in a very sterile environment, so I have no problem doing that, but it really isn't even necessary. If your press it at the right height and you have the ability to do so, try doing the same with a shirt and see if that helps.

We're redesigning the site with a template we purchased and will be showcasing many more of our dark designs. Once it's complete everyone will be able to see many more of our plastisol transfers in action. :)

As an aside, we also started buying dark color plastisol transfers for our white shirts. The hand is so much softer and you don't have to wait but a few seconds to peel.

The evolution continues...
 

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From back in the 80's in the days of Roach transfers, right up to today, I use a chalkboard eraser.


Press the transfer with the mfg's spec's, immediately remove shirt (or whatever) from press to tabletop, or whatever your press is on, use even medium/heavy hand pressure and rub the eraser all over that transfer until it is pretty much cool to the touch, maybe a smidgen of warmth left, but verrrryyyy little, peel from one corner in smooth, fairly quick motion.
 

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I tried all of your suggestions, and although I get a little bit better results, and once in awhile get a great shirt, it's nowhere near consistent. When I use a rolling pin the shirt moves a little bit, the paper creases. When I peel, the first letter always has the sides peel up. The graphic images with more ink transfer pretty well but they leave alot of ink on the paper. I can't figure this out.
 
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