I wasn't impressed with the quality of opaque paper myself. Its only good for big block images that you can cut right up to, and it feels really plasticy and I've heard it usually doesn't last very long.
Aeon: What settings are you using for transfering the plastisol you're getting from Silver Mountain? We just got in our first order from them today, and they aren't quite working perfectly. So far I've determined that 400 degrees seems to work a lot better than 375, but other than that I'm not certain (especially reguarding the cold peel for extra opacity).
Well, its getting better. Still not perfect. Seems like the plastisol ink doesn't press in all the way, but if you re-press them afterwards (with teflon in between, of course) part of the ink transfers to the teflon and it loses some opacity (thought it does stick in better at least). Also, The ink on the side where I first start removing the carrier (right side in my case) doesn't transfer fully either, so that part of it leaves some ink on the carrier and isn't fully opaque.
Tried using a rolling pin... I didn't have any good way to keep the shirt from flailing wildly all over the place, but it still seemed to do an okay job in spite of that. I think I'll stick with a cloth or somehting for now.
And one other note, when I pull off the carrier paper it kind of jerks a bit whenever it gets to an ink portion, and this leaves some of the edges of letters, for examples, a little jagged. This one probably isn't a huge deal, but smoother would be better.
Might as well put an update to my situation here...
Doing pretty good. We're using a rolling pin and going up and down it for about 10 seconds after pressing it for 10 seconds. Also, I quickly peel up one corner/side just a little bit, and then peel across from the other side -- doing this nearly eliminates the problem I was having with the last little bit staying on the carrier paper partially instead of transfering. This sets the ink fairly well, but the edges of the letters still are a little flaky/not stuck down fully from the peeling motion. Also, very thin lines on a medium-sized design we tried don't do too well... I don't know if that's because they are just too thin or because our heat press is a little on the fritz (not enough pressure; right now we're using a big sweatshirt to thicken it and give more pressure, but now the shirts get a visible mark/crease on the edge where the press was) or what.
So... we've got some in good sellable condition now, but we still don't have it quite down to a science. Another question for you, Aeon: do you have any way of holding down the shirt so that it doesn't crease/wrinkle up (and occasionally shift the whole shirt) when you're rolling your pin over it? It seems to do okay regardless for the most part, but it did mess up at least one shirt and made others a bit harder to handle.
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