A flash will cure waterbased fine.Just pull the tshirt away from the platten as you want the water to evaporate away. Set the flash abit further away than you do with plastisol,and flash.You should get steam as the heat drives the water out.
One time I was doing two layers of opaque yellow on black shirts, made a big stack, went back later to cure them with the flash one by one, then during boxing I saw that some shirts had the design on the back of them, where ink wasn't completely flashed/dry to the touch and came off on the shirt above it in the stack. Whoops! But the customer didn't ever say anything ...
can you not cure them right after printing while they are still on the platen?Use the flash cure unit normally to flash dry the shirts between layers when you're printing multiple colors. Do a last flash so you can pull the shirts off the platens and stack them, then later go back and cure them one by one. It'll take a while and be pretty boring. Take your IR thermometer gun and make sure that all areas are hitting 300+ degrees.
Make sure to flash well before stacking even if you're just doing a one color. One time I was doing two layers of opaque yellow on black shirts, made a big stack, went back later to cure them with the flash one by one, then during boxing I saw that some shirts had the design on the back of them, where ink wasn't completely flashed/dry to the touch and came off on the shirt above it in the stack. Whoops! But the customer didn't ever say anything ...
Not recommended unless you have an aluminum one. Waterbased inks take a much longer time to dry/cure than plastisol. Generally about 2 minutes. That much constant heat on a wooden platen would cause warping.can you not cure them right after printing while they are still on the platen?
Flash because you get a more uniform heat coverage. You could under-cure an area of your design using a heat gun, which will cause fading.Am i better off curing water base ink with heat gun or flash dryer?