[digitalp]

Hi All,

I've not been on here for a while posting any issues, as I have been busy using my machine - which is a great testament to the solid reliable nature of the Neoflex really!

I have now been looking to print more and more flat white logo's onto grey, black etc - but I have been experiencing a cracked white finish after I remove the silicon sheet after curing.

It isn't too bad when colour is printed over the top of the white (but it still happens) - but when it is just white it seems to have tiny lines in it.

Any ideas on what is causing this? Excess heat? I cure at 185 degrees C for the usual 2 x 90 seconds with a gap in between where the sheet is removed.

Thank you,

 

[Stitch-Up]

Great to hear from you Nils - I often wonder how you're getting on.

Looks like it might be a pre-treatment issue Nils - What brand make of shirt are you printing on?

Are you using a brush to ensure the pre-treatment fluid is getting into all nooks and crannies?

Which profile are you using? Sometimes if there's no black ink in the design, I use the full white, black shirt settings to get more white ink to print.

Cheers

John

 

[Smalzstein]

I would say its the shirt, the loose fibers are visible even on this photo in non printed areas.

 

[treefox2118]

Agree with Smalzstein -- that shirt might not be ringspun cotton, or it might be a cheaper weave.

 

[digitalp]

Hi Guys, and Hi John!

I think it might be pre-treatment as well, as I recently changed to some other stuff, and it does itn all varying types of garment - t shirts and hoodies.

It doesn't seem to do it when I use light (white) pre-treatment on lighter shirts - so it looks like the dark pre treatemt might be the cause.

I use the black and red print profile in NeoRip.

I think I will try and get a different pre treatment solution and see how we get on.

Thank you for your replies!

 

[treefox2118]

Best bet is to post the following so we can offer some advice:

1. pretreatment chemical manufacturer
2. pretreatment method (machine or hand spray)
3. pretreatment amount (weight in grams and overall dimensions of pretreatment area)
4. garment used
5. pretreatment curing temperature and time
6. print curing temperature and time

 

[g.lupo]

What brand shirt?
What brand ink?
what is room temp?
Room Humidity?
Ink shaken or stirred?lol
pretreat shaken?
what brand pretreat?
what temp curing?
How long cure?
what pressure cure?

many factors in making perfect print

 

[allamerican-aeoon]

Nils,
Long time no see. We missed you. I am glad you are having little issue here. This way we see you here more often. LOL. Jk.
It is all about process.
See how fast NeoFamily are jump on you all over you? Aren't you proud?
Thank you SO SO much NeoSeniors.
Cheers! Inks are on me always.

 

[Teez310]

See if you can get away with a little more PT. Kinda fill in the gaps to create a smoother surface then Wash Test.

Lastly I dont know many people who create such a fine stroke on the outside of the logo so if its not meant to be there you might wanna calibrate your bi-directional alignment. Id say your feed adjust as well but considering its not just top to bottom but all over. Calibrate with the dimes work of space.

 

[Stitch-Up]

@digitalp

Great website & designs Nils

Some of your artwork is BIG, especially on white shirts. What's your method?

 

[digitalp]

Ok, thank you for the advice.

I tried a different pre-treatment but it still leaves a similar issue.

I should say that I had this on lock-down, and was all dialed in - but something has recently changed.

I use a hand sprayer (Wagner) and had previously had no issues with a nice flat layer of white.

After printing, the white looks perfect, it only changes to a more patchy white after the curing / silicon sheet has been removed.

I use the coralgraph sheet as recommended by Stitch-Up - which has previously yielded great results to cure the image.

The only variables which could have changed are:

1. Heat press temp. I had to replace the loom in my heat press recently as it would not hold a constant temperature. Since replacing it, it now holds constant temperature - but I was thinking it may be providing an incorrect temp reading which could lead to the results shown.

2. Pre-Treatment. I had recently run out of AA pre-treat for darks, and started using some which I have from Garment printer ink.

All other settings must be the same as I say I had this perfect and have a good feel for spraying and printing now.

I cure at 185 degrees C for 90 seconds, then another 90 seconds.

I let the heatpress only rest on the image with the Coralgraph sheet inbetween.

I can post other images, which to be fair are not as bad as the image shown above - but I am looking for the perfect finish again, without the tiny patchy cracks in the white.

One of the t shirts I use is the Hanes Fit T Shirt 100% cotton code H5500, which is an excellent shirt to print on normally - and previously.

 

[digitalp]

@digitalp

Great website & designs Nils

Some of your artwork is BIG, especially on white shirts. What's your method?

Thank you for the kind words!

My method is startling simple actually. I push 2 of the standard neoflex platens together and made a template to match the size of the print area.

I then push the second platen away slightly to tighten up the fabric, and away you go!

It fits all shirts except some size small - where you can clip the garment all around except the bottom.

That's how I have been able to print large images without too much hassle.

Works pretty well for me!

 

[23spiderman]

is this a different batch of white ink as compared to when you were getting proper results? i know some people here in the US were having issues with their white DuPont ink. i never had this problem, so i'm wondering if it was a batch of ink that was "bad", and not all of us got any of that particular batch.

 

[Stitch-Up]

Thank you for the kind words!

My method is startling simple actually. I push 2 of the standard neoflex platens together and made a template to match the size of the print area.

I then push the second platen away slightly to tighten up the fabric, and away you go!

It fits all shirts except some size small - where you can clip the garment all around except the bottom.

That's how I have been able to print large images without too much hassle.

Works pretty well for me!

Do exactly the same here Nils We use a strip of mousemat to fill the lower bits where the platens butt together just to support the shirt fabric to the same level.

Will you be going to FESPA this year - it's in Munich

 

[digitalp]

is this a different batch of white ink as compared to when you were getting proper results? i know some people here in the US were having issues with their white DuPont ink. i never had this problem, so i'm wondering if it was a batch of ink that was "bad", and not all of us got any of that particular batch.

Bad white ink you say? Wow, I had no idea. My ink does come from the US, so it is possible.

If that is the case, I should be through it fairly soon-ish.

It's a real head scratcher, as I had it on lock down, and then it just started to become a bit wierd.

I have a fairly scientific brain (physics at uni), and I have been looking to keep all things constant and then change one thing to see the result.

So far - new pre-treatment = same result. Granted it is not AA pre-treat, but I was hoping to see something different anyway.

If it is the ink, then nothing I do will change the outcome, unless I can use another set of ink carts from someone who knows their ink is still good.

I just have a couple of designs which I am keen to print and get out there, but I just can't do it if the results are not as good as I know they can be!

 

[digitalp]

Will you be going to FESPA this year - it's in Munich

Ha! You must be joking! Between my new baby, website launch and working - I rarely get a day off as it is!

 

[Stitch-Up]

I've often purposely put far to much pre-treatment on a shirt to check for any differences with white ink coverage. If I then get a real solid white layer, I consider my pre-treatment to be the issue.

I'd rather suspect the pre-treatment to be the issue than the DuPont ink.

 

[digitalp]

I've often purposely put far to much pre-treatment on a shirt to check for any differences with white ink coverage. If I then get a real solid white layer, I consider my pre-treatment to be the issue.

I'd rather suspect the pre-treatment to be the issue than the DuPont ink.

Thats an interesting point, and something I do on occasion.

I did this, and did get a solid white layer. What is it that gives the pre-treatment away as the fault by achieving this?

What should you be looking for as a sign the PT is ok when you over spray the garment?

 

[Stitch-Up]

I find that if I don't give my pre-treatment fluid the same attention as my white ink, it tends to 'clump up'. Sometimes you might notice white blobs on the side of the containers.. If you use this in your sprayer it can block the nozzle. The white clumps are the binding agents and, if evident, your pre-treatment is compromised. Start using a new bottle.

After applying my pre-treatment I use the brush and like to see evidence of the pre-treatment - sort of white streaks especially on black shirts.

It can be a PITA often overcome with a fresh batch of pre-treatment.

 

[digitalp]

I see. Yes I have seen the lumps in the bottle before, and have been careful to make sure the sprayer is clear.

I know what you mean about the streaks, it is my indicator of a healthy layer of PT on black.

Are you saying that based on the evidence before - that if you overdo the PT - and you get a nice layer of white - the PT is not mixed correctly, and that you are having to double up to get the white layer you need?

I did this, got a perfectly printed white layer, and then after curing it was slightly patchy.

This image is with High White Opacity on Black (even though it is printed on red) and it seems much better.



This was on the Hanes H5500 fit t shirt - normal black high res settings.