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couple of testers

1947 Views 14 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  1ArmBandit
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a couple of testers with JPSS, one with sub ink and one dye ink.

in the flesh the sub ink is far superior to the eye .. wash test tomorrow

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I've been using sub ink on JPSS for cotton tote bags for a while now with great results, even though the naysayers keep saying that JPSS can't be used with sub inks (contrary to the manufacturers information!).

I'll admit, most people don't wash a tote bag, so I'll be interested in hearing the results of your wash tests.
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I've been using sub ink on JPSS for cotton tote bags for a while now with great results, even though the naysayers keep saying that JPSS can't be used with sub inks (contrary to the manufacturers information!).

I'll admit, most people don't wash a tote bag, so I'll be interested in hearing the results of your wash tests.

hi, ive never understood the logic with sub inks and JPSS, the inks are under a film, or am i missing something :confused:

but i'll leave them the 24 hours as per JPSS instructions for washing .. so fingers crossed etc etc
That looks great! Looking forward to seeing the results of the wash test.

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That looks great! Looking forward to seeing the results of the wash test.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
thank you, its just the red on the dye ink seems to be coming out maroon, which can be awkward :)
Tabz are you contour cutting your designs? I don't see the jpss at all. I mainly use vinyl and screen printed transfers but i want to do full color also. I'm jumping on the sub wagon soon and ran across this.

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Tabz are you contour cutting your designs? I don't see the jpss at all. I mainly use vinyl and screen printed transfers but i want to do full color also. I'm jumping on the sub wagon soon and ran across this.

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hiya.. no not at all.. all i do is what i do to every print and trim the edges off incase of a blemish from a head strike, but forget plotters / cutters etc .. no need

but the test will come tomoz when the washer gives em hell :D
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heres the after wash / iron

no tumble dryer was harmed in the making of these shirts

to the eye the sub ink wins hands down, both suffered a loss in colour of i'd say around 20%

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heres the after wash / iron

no tumble dryer was harmed in the making of these shirts

to the eye the sub ink wins hands down, both suffered a loss in colour of i'd say around 20%
Thanks for that Tabz. Always good to know.
tabz what printer are you using? your colors look awesome.
tabz what printer are you using? your colors look awesome.
epson wf 7110
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hi, ive never understood the logic with sub inks and JPSS, the inks are under a film, or am i missing something :confused:

but i'll leave them the 24 hours as per JPSS instructions for washing .. so fingers crossed etc etc
There are a couple of thoughts on using JPSS as a "prep" paper.

Yes you still have "film", but JPSS the hand is gone after a wash and the "box" effect is virtually eliminated if applied correctly and using a white tshirt after washing. Like sublimation, no hand and no "box".

So why use sub ink on JPSS when pigment inks on JPSS effectively gives the same result?

1. For someone that is mostly doing sublimation then if you use JPSS and sub inks you only need 1 printer. While you can swap between sub ink carts and pigment inks carts in a single printer it is more expensive due to ink waste when the carts are changed and less convenient.

So someone already using sublimation need not get a 2nd pigment based printer.

2. Pigment inks won't "pop" as well as sub inks do. If you want more vibrancy you can improve using sub inks.
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a couple of testers with JPSS, one with sub ink and one dye ink.

in the flesh the sub ink is far superior to the eye .. wash test tomorrow
I would also offer that if you use 50/50 tshirts the washing should be improved ... the 50% poly fibers will hold the sub dye permanently, the cotton fibers are "prepped" with the polymer, any fade issues would result from the cotton not holding the sub dye, the idea is that just enough of the "film" (which is a polymer) will remain on the tshirt to act as the sublimatable surface for the cotton fibers.

Another reason for 50/50 poly/cotton is that the 50/50 tshirts have less "piling" after many washes (fibers that split and look like white "fuzzies" on the surface). The poly fibers are much stronger. If you notice on 100% poly tshirts there is practicallu no "piling", so 50/50 should be a better choice for sublimation "prepping".

Looking forward to the wash tests.
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I would also offer that if you use 50/50 tshirts the washing should be improved ... the 50% poly fibers will hold the sub dye permanently, the cotton fibers are "prepped" with the polymer, any fade issues would result from the cotton not holding the sub dye, the idea is that just enough of the "film" (which is a polymer) will remain on the tshirt to act as the sublimatable surface for the cotton fibers.

Another reason for 50/50 poly/cotton is that the 50/50 tshirts have less "piling" after many washes (fibers that split and look like white "fuzzies" on the surface). The poly fibers are much stronger. If you notice on 100% poly tshirts there is practicallu no "piling", so 50/50 should be a better choice for sublimation "prepping".

Looking forward to the wash tests.
my god, of course.. thats genius, seriously why didnt i think of this 50/50 .. thank you
looks great! what brand ink are you using? icc profile?...really making me think about getting some sub carts, hmmm... 2 the 5!
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