Post a pic of your film. What LPI and angle your printing, mesh size, you using a rip or how are you converting to halftones.
I'll have to post a picture of the film after work.
I'm not sure of the lpi, is there a way I can find that on Corel Painter? I looked around, but didn't see it anywhere. It looks like halftones to me, but I don't really know much of anything about halftones. I do see small dots making up the design on film. He said he thinks the angle was 90. I don't have rip software. It looked like it was already halftones from Photoshop.
Does anyone know if the "glass" that comes in poster frames is UV resistant or not? That's probably my next option because I have a ton of poster frames. Do you mean vacuum bags like space bags? The light goes through that fine?
I rinsed it in the shower, let it sit for a couple minutes, then sprayed the shirt side with the shower head, for a pretty long time, but the top half of the circle rinsed out right away and the bottom half and half of the letters took longer to wash out.
Yellow mesh is usally anything over 156 but i have some yellow 156. 230 mesh at 35-40 LPI is the range I would use.Alright, so higher mesh, is yellow good? I'll see what I can do about figuring out the lpi, shorter exposure (?) and glass. (and I'll still post a picture of the film positive later today)
Does it sound like there's anything wrong with how I'm washing the screen out? There should be some details in the top half of the circle, but that all washed away pretty quickly. I'm just using a normal shower head, I can adjust it to a different setting if that helps at all. Or is it more likely that the dots are too small for the screen?
Can I use white water based ink on a higher mesh count? It says to dilute with water if needed on the jar, I don't know if that will change the opacity or anything though. They make an extender too (is that what I should be looking for?) but I haven't figured out where to get it yet.
I looked up accurip, because I was considering just doing the free trial, but under supported epsons, neither of mine are listed (because I have photo printers), does that mean it absolutely won't work or it's just not recommended?
Yellow mesh is usally anything over 156 but i have some yellow 156. 230 mesh at 35-40 LPI is the range I would use.
Which printer do you have? you cant use anything not listed as accurip wouldnt know how to make the printer work. Look and see if Filmmaker DTP supports your printer. They also have a trial.
After reprinting your film and making proper contact when exposing wet screen down both sides and let sit 3 min then gently wash out shirt side. you can rinse print side but NO pressure.
You say a shower head is it the wand type? depending on your houses water pressure that may work fine
Oh, weird. I wonder why they took it out.Photoshop CS5 doesnt have a way to change LPI or angle they took the screen button out. I ran parellels on my Mac and ran windows. If your willing to send file to me PM me. I will make the file with correct printing so you can print out of any program. There are plenty of places that sell 8.5x11 or 8.5x14 Ryonet, Fixxons just to name a few. I have a artisan 800 so I can test how it will print with no rip and a converted file with proper sized halftones. all you have to do is tell me mesh you have.
I cant for the life of me figure out why Adobe would do that.anyone have an idea as to why Adobe would do this?Photoshop CS5 doesnt have a way to change LPI or angle they took the screen button out.