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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been using a homemade unfiltered blacklight exposure unit with a vacuum blanket for years now, but just finished a job (simulated process on black shirts) that I had a tough time with the darker toned areas - say above 75%. Additionally, doing any kind of gradient oftentimes results in a rather abrupt cutoff on the lighter end. At any rate, I'm considering purchasing a commercially made metal halide exposure system to maximize screen quality regarding halftone reproduction, and have narrowed it down to either NuArc's 3140 or Amergraph's AdVantage 150. The specifications for both are almost identical, but the NuArc is considerably more expensive. I'd appreciate any comments, both positive or negative, from owners or users of these two units. While there are plenty of workarounds to buying a commercially made unit, it's interesting that it seems as though everyone who buys one says they can't believe they got along for so long without one, and that it's one of the best investments they've made.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. I usually fiddle with the transfer function in Photoshop if outputting from there, but Illustrator doesn' t have that feature.

Regarding the exposure unit, I'd also like to go back to using dual-cure emulsions to gain resolution without waiting forever for a screen to burn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The transfer function is a postscript function, photoshop just happens to make it especially easy to use. For programs other than photoshop, the printers .ppd file can be edited with the same numbers as the ones used in photoshop to yield the same results.

fred
Man, it's been a few years since I dug into a ppd to change line screens and so on to get what I wanted out of illustrator, but I never went into it to adjust the percentages on the low and high end of the grayscale. Used to have to do it to get the output I wanted from my laserwriter for reporduction on paper offset printing plates.

I'll have to revisit those wonderful moments from yesteryear.

Thanks,

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I ended up buying the Amergraph 150 and while it's not as cheap as a home built unit, having a timer, a light integrator, a hot-strike bulb and a nicer vacuum blanket than the pond liner jobs I've been making for my blacklight units, not to mention the uptick in quality, I can't say I'm sorry I went this route. Getting my exposure times dialed in after switching to Ulano QX-1 has given me the best screens and halftones I've ever gotten. What I see on my monitor is what I get on my shirts.
 
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