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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
This is my first true post asking a detailed question on here although I've lurked for quite some time. Here is my issue.

I can easily build a 4 color Press with good registration and so on, but i want to be able to do CMYK prints on Dark T-shirts.

So My first question is if I were to Just delete the key layer from a white underbase layer would it do the trick? In my head it seems logical that I need a white underbase for darks, but i could join the key layer into that layer by omitting some white, which would mute the above process colors.

Does this make sense and does anyone else do this? If not i'm going to have to opt for a 5 color press at minimum, which is slightly harder.

I will be going with waterbased matsui enviroline inks for my process shirts.

I am very serious about getting this right but keep in mind I am very capable of making DIY work for me, and I am close to penniless as I've put everything into a new line of shirts.

This is why i'm trying to figure out if this can work, because if it does i can breathe a sigh of relief and just build a new press rather than sticking with one color tees.

PLEASE help lol. thanks :)
 

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Im not sure your going to get any opacity at all with WB ink on black, without some sort of underbase.

Maybe better to buy a heatpress and use a transfer printing company. They can do it for less than you think, and you will be able to do it right away.

My 2c. Dont even think about doing process prints without a white layer on black shirts. In fact you should stick with Simulated process anyways, much better result in my opinion. {Of course depends on graphics, etc. }

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i think you misunderstood me lol, i am not going to leave out the White underbase. I'm wondering if I can get away with getting rid of the Black layer by subtracting the Key (black) from the white underbase.
 

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More than likely not. If you've ever printed just cmy on a white tee it looks ok, but the black adds a lot of depth to the other colors and the angle of the halftone and the way the black interacts with with the other inks is key. The areas where the cmy inks overlap into the black would not have a base to stand on and would have very poor opacity / differing opacity.
 

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I would do an underbase and print CMYK. CMY had no depth. I seen you say build a press. I am going to say if you plan on doing CMYK you need a press that will hold .05 or better registration not saying you can't build a press that will but you will have to build it well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks everyone I really appreciate all of your input. I suppose what i'm going to need to do, is get a 5 color silverpress or something along those lines. The plus on that is that i can do a 5 color simulated process if I need, or I can do a CMYK with a white underbase on darks.

Right now I'm stuck on one color, or 3-point hand registration on a Phillipino style line press (which does work, I'm just wary on longer runs)

I'm just going to have to grab up a rotary press when I can.
 

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I would guess you'll find other uses for the additional head in the long run, as the color process gamut is good but not great especially when attempting to simulate the more vibrant (gold, silver etc) colors.

Depending on your medium, it also may not be wise to rely on consumer care to preserve your blacks (fading, bleaching, etc)
 
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