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That's just plain funny.

I don't believe I'd use that design with the cch2o. Not because it's the death star, but it looks like it'd be too difficult to weed. It is costly when you lift the vinyl from the carrier. Makes me a little anxious. It does/will take practice, but I think the issue here is in the intricate design. Nice work Chris.
yeah, I went too big too soon. :) thats ok, I just got a roll of the black from Stahls, so I have some more to play with...funny enough, I have yet to see the super film in its natural state on a shirt, I have only done the cch20 technique...

sounds like some kind of kung fu style.. "I see you use the drunken monkey style, I will counter with the CCH20 technique!"
 

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John (Mtnview) was curious if the cch2o application would work on a full button jersey. I tried this on a 50/50 jersey - 400 degrees/ medium pressure/ 20 seconds. The print turned out fine. If you look at the pic, it looks like the buttons are unbuttoned. As I'm standing over the press, I'm wondering how the buttons will hold up. Well, I lift the press, peel from left to right...and buttons go flying! They didn't like the heat. The buttons were compromised at the thinnest/weakest point - the holes where the thread holds them down (I'm sure there's a technical term for this). Had I peeled from right to left, it may have turned out differently as the left side of the jersey folds over the right side. Funny result. Maybe a button expert will let us know the heat threshold for the buttons.
 

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John (Mtnview) was curious if the cch2o application would work on a full button jersey. I tried this on a 50/50 jersey - 400 degrees/ medium pressure/ 20 seconds. The print turned out fine. If you look at the pic, it looks like the buttons are unbuttoned. As I'm standing over the press, I'm wondering how the buttons will hold up. Well, I lift the press, peel from left to right...and buttons go flying! They didn't like the heat. The buttons were compromised at the thinnest/weakest point - the holes where the thread holds them down (I'm sure there's a technical term for this). Had I peeled from right to left, it may have turned out differently as the left side of the jersey folds over the right side. Funny result. Maybe a button expert will let us know the heat threshold for the buttons.
Bummer with the buttons. I wonder if there is something small that can be put over the buttons to protect them from the high heat.
 

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What if you laid the design where you want it, mark the area where the button hole is, cut that part out, lay it back on the garment, I think I would put a pillow inside to elevate the area, put teflon or whatever you use over the design area and press? I would not think you would want the transfer on the buttonhole but rather just next to it. This would take some messing with and would be a little tedious and time consuming. Not exactly sure why the buttons came off and or broke. Maybe the buttons or the thread used to sew them on was not meant to withstand the heat and pressure? Since those garments are almost always subjected to some kind of heat transfer process, you would think that would be taken into consideration.
 

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What if you laid the design where you want it, mark the area where the button hole is, cut that part out, lay it back on the garment, I think I would put a pillow inside to elevate the area, put teflon or whatever you use over the design area and press? I would not think you would want the transfer on the buttonhole but rather just next to it. This would take some messing with and would be a little tedious and time consuming. .
Usually on a baseball jersey, the buttons are spaced so that a team name/design would fit between the buttons. They nor their holes should interfere with a print.
Not exactly sure why the buttons came off and or broke.
When I pre-pressed the shirt for 7-11 seconds, I noticed the buttons got soft. The heat either made the thin parts brittle, or melted them enough for the threads to pull through. It all happened because the adhesion of the film put pressure on the left side of the jersey as I held down the right side while peeling the film off from left to right. Hopefully that makes sense.
 

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My understanding was that the desire was to place the design over/across the buttons. Sorry if I misunderstood. I am wondering if you could cut small pieces of high density foam and hold them in place with transfer tape over the buttons if that would help protect them from the heat.
 

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My understanding was that the desire was to place the design over/across the buttons. Sorry if I misunderstood. I am wondering if you could cut small pieces of high density foam and hold them in place with transfer tape over the buttons if that would help protect them from the heat.
It would have to be a material that could handle the 400 degree heat and not melt itself up against the platen. As far as the design goes I was thinking of it going between the buttons to the extent possible. Whatever we could find to cover the button would have to slightly larger than a button so it didn't get in the way of the design.

Is there a thermal tape that will hold up to the 400 degrees without melting but insulate the button?
 

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Is there a thermal tape that will hold up to the 400 degrees without melting but insulate the button?
I use the Stahl's thermo tape when necessary. It's the thin blue stuff. I'm not sure what temp it can handle. Josh or Nick?

...but insulate the button?
I doubt the thermo tape would be good for that.

My initial thought was the opposite of another poster's: Put a pillow-type material inside the shirt, with circles cut out so the buttons will "hide" inside the pillow-type object. Maybe this would shield enough heat. The buttons that didn't pop off didn't seem to be too worse for wear.
 

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I use the Stahl's thermo tape when necessary. It's the thin blue stuff. I'm not sure what temp it can handle. Josh or Nick?



I doubt the thermo tape would be good for that.

My initial thought was the opposite of another poster's: Put a pillow-type material inside the shirt, with circles cut out so the buttons will "hide" inside the pillow-type object. Maybe this would shield enough heat. The buttons that didn't pop off didn't seem to be too worse for wear.
Did you not use a teflon pillow at all? I was thinking you would have to get a pillow in there no matter what material so the buttons like zippers would sink down while pressing.
 

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Guess I will have to return from my self imposed exile as I promised Josh I would report on testing of CCH20. First let me say that I have purchased three rolls ..red, black and white. I was out of town when my sample came and then I was at SGIA and saw the pressing/use in person...After return home I started playing with the sample...mine was the red.. I think that it has some great uses..and when used just as regular vinyl, it has a really soft hand and when pressed at the 400F for the 20 sec and peeled hot you really get a soft hand. I have not yet been able to get consistent same result across the board in my tests but I think that is a combination new product...maybe my older press is not a consist pressure or heat...I have a new press and my second location and will try that to see if a get different results. But over all I think you can make some great one-offs and get a screened look..and the hand is just super.

All in all...a big thumbs up from me.....

and now time to return to my cave!
 

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If I ever get my Hotronix 16x16 delivered, I plan to experiment with the remainder of my sample. My cheap Chinese press doesn't have a reliable enough pressure regulation to create the extreme wash look. Ido like the wash view and my results with regular wash technique were consistent and very soft. Makes me want to use the material cold peel for the super film effect. Wish it weeded as easy as some of the other stuff, but you can't have everything right?
 
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