I'm not a fan of kits as you are always paying for some stuff you either don't need or would be better off without. Buying used as suggested above is smart, but not always possible where/when you are.
If you are up for some more DIY work, you can do professional level work on a line press. They are simple to build. Search on here and/or google to see what is involved. Many, many shirts you see from major brands were printed on such presses in Asia. I encourage you to investigate this idea if you are reasonably good at DIY projects.
That said, I bought my first press before I was aware of line presses, so I ended up with the Silver Press from Ryonet, 4/1. It was fine for single-color prints, but was a pain to setup for multi-color work, and prone to inconsistent results. The main fault of the design was that it depended upon the tightness/friction of the two bolts that held the head to the arm in order to set and control the tilt of the head. This needs to be adjusted for each screen since the square tube of the screen frame is often a bit out of true. Then partway through a job the damn joint slips a bit and you are FUBAR. So if you want professional results and minimum headaches, don't get a press that uses bolts through the joint to set the head tilt.
Also, when tightening down the head clamp, the screen would tend to squirm a bit, and since the press did not have micros, it took a lot of fiddling to get multiple screens properly aligned to each other. Micros are nice, but even nicer is a solidly built head clamp that doesn't make the screen squirm when you tighten it down.
I eventually made a go at selling shirts, and was going sort of crazy when my best seller was a 3-color design. I soon bought a Vastex 2000 4/4, a truly professional level press, but also $$$$.
My first DIY exposure unit was 4 40w UV tubes, a box made out of 2x12 and a piece of glass. It worked. Pro tip. Use a fast poly type emulsion, like Saati PHU. Diazo is slow, and when you have a weak exposure unit and Diazo, it can be frustrating. I now have a DIY 1000w metal halide. If I were doing a new one today, I would probably use UV LEDs. Lots of info on this if you search.
I print water base, and used a heat gun as a "flash." It works. I've since bought a Vastex F-1000 and it is great. Many of the people who use line table presses, use heat guns for flashing--though I imagine you could use a conventional flash if you set things up right.
I cure with a heat press. It gives good results with the water base inks I use. Some also cure Plastisol with a heat press, though obviously there can be issues if you use too much heat and pressure with that ink.