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Practice or use the expensive vinyl with some sort of air egress system like avery ez. 3M has one too. Other than that It has been my experience most bubbles are caused in the masking process rather than the actual application. If you get a nice smooth mask. The application almost does itself. The key is to squeege from the center out. As you get more comfortable dealing with vinyl you will get fewer and fewer bubbles. However It does take a little manual dexterity and not everyone masters it. I suggest puting a little thought in to the application process to avoid surprises. This tends to put you in a more relaxed mindset which is the best mode to be in when working with vinyl. hope this helps.
 

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You need to get with a tint man or women. The same soapy water trick will work. but test the amount of soap b/c if to much will not stick. There is some other stuff that can be bought. I forget the name. Had some before the storm " Katrina". Not any more.
 

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I think the ratio is 2 drops dawn(plain unscented) dish soap to a gallon of water you can put it into a spray bottle and mist your substrate and apply wet, it is now repositional and like was mentioned sqee from the inside out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you...How-What is a good method in masking...What is a good tape...is there a technique???....

Sorry for so many questions, I have this cutter and access to fellers here in town but I feel like I should be making money doing signs and banners and some days this cutter is not turned on.
 

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When doing a wet application with soap and water mix, try adding a touch of windshield washer fluid to the mix, it will help in drying. or go to rapidtac.com and get some application fluid. I fully agree to use a air-release vinyl which is now available even in everyday use calandered vinyl from oracal and probabaly others.
 

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..and also if you were to wet the application tape before you remove it will loosen the adhesive and make it easier to pull off. Also you can spray your vinyl with Krylon colours to get colour blends. It is not necessary to scuff the vinyl prior. I like to shoot a bit of clear over it. Oh yeah..about spraying, is to weed after you spray..give it a few hrs. to dry before applying transfer tape. ive had success with rattlecan enamels too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I watched the video and some on you tube. I see a lot of the people have that tape holder and stretches the tape over the vinyl for smooth tapping. Is that necessary? I saw them at fellers for $309 the dual pole and 239 for the single pole??
 

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I watched the video and some on you tube. I see a lot of the people have that tape holder and stretches the tape over the vinyl for smooth tapping. Is that necessary? I saw them at fellers for $309 the dual pole and 239 for the single pole??
Simple way at no extra cost is to start your tape on vinyl, then take another roll of vinyl and butt it next to the other and start pushing the vinyl roll against the tape. If you start your tape out flat, you will get a smooth tape job with no creases or wrinkles. Basically you want to push down and against the tape with the roll of vinyl. Afterwards, you will need to squeegee down the tape better.
 

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I watched the video and some on you tube. I see a lot of the people have that tape holder and stretches the tape over the vinyl for smooth tapping. Is that necessary? I saw them at fellers for $309 the dual pole and 239 for the single pole??
You can do the opposite motion. Lay your vinyl on a table then attach the end of your roll of tape to the end of the table over the edge and over your vinyl - then roll out the tape over your graphic slowly lowering to the table, slowly touch down making sure the vinyl is flat once down work out with hands and then squeege. check vinly app sites and also look for "hinge Method". works great! I personally feel dispensers restrict you as you will find yourself taping all over your shop, on floor,table, etc. some swear by them however
 
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