[roland1]

I print a perfect white image, i cure and get a perfect white image on a black tee @90%
I print a 2 pass colour image on a black tee the white is perfect, it then prints the colour overlay and the image looks vibrant and perfect, i cure and the image finishes up looking dull and has lost it's vibrancy
any tips please on getting a good vibrant image on a black tee?
i am so frustrated with this DTG printing
Thank you

 

[AnACustomPrints]

Don't know if this will solve the problem 325-335 degrees

1.After printing let the shirt set for a near minute.
2.Hover the press about 3/8 inch above the shirt for i1minute.

3. Cover with Teflon and let the press sit on the shirt for 30 sec.

4. Press with moderate pressure for 30 sec.
5. Lift and release steam and repress for 30 sec.
6.Lift and release steam and repress for 30 seconds.
Time consuming but you should get a bright print and immediately washable.

 

[roland1]

Don't know if this will solve the problem 325-335 degrees

1.After printing let the shirt set for a near minute.
2.Hover the press about 3/8 inch above the shirt for i1minute.

3. Cover with Teflon and let the press sit on the shirt for 30 sec.

4. Press with moderate pressure for 30 sec.
5. Lift and release steam and repress for 30 sec.
6.Lift and release steam and repress for 30 seconds.
Time consuming but you should get a bright print and immediately washable.

Thank you for your reply, the temp is correct, my my curing time is supposed to be 180 seconds, so maybe i'll try your method 5-6 times,
does it have to be teflon or could i use parchment paper?
thank you

 

[AnACustomPrints]

Teflon gives a glossier image, Kraft paper gives a more matte finish. Can't say about parchment.

 

[roland1]

Teflon gives a glossier image, Kraft paper gives a more matte finish. Can't say about parchment.

Thank you Gene

 

[TABOB]

that's because the color is pushed into the white layer.
Hover the press for a minute or so, and then lower it to the point where it is just about touching the shirt. You don't really need pressure for the printing stage of DTG.

 

[roland1]

Is anyone else curing at 300 for 3 mins? a friend just told me, no wonder theres no colour your cooking the garment?
thank you

 

[TABOB]

Is anyone else curing at 300 for 3 mins? a friend just told me, no wonder theres no colour your cooking the garment?
thank you

I've heard this a few times.
I think it is because people are using different amounts of pretreatment and dry it to different levels before printing. A dry shirt will not take 3 minutes to cure.

 

[zerg71]

Roland,
curing time depends on ink that you use. DuPont inks needs to be cured for 3 mins (dark) and 1,5 min (white) compared to Polyprint power inks: 1,5 min (dark) and 30 sec (white).

 

[TABOB]

Roland,
curing time depends on ink that you use. DuPont inks needs to be cured for 3 mins (dark) and 1,5 min (white) compared to Polyprint power inks: 1,5 min (dark) and 30 sec (white).

Not true!
As I've already said... a dry shirt will NOT take 3 minutes to cure. The reason Polyprint power inks do cure faster is because they contain more binder. Screen-printing inks with even higher binder content, can cure in 15-30 seconds when using a heat-press. Also the method of curing is important. A heat press will cure the ink much faster than a conveyor dryer.

In more detail:

First of all, I wouldn't be surprised if DuPont makes the Polyprint inks, as they do make inks for many brands.
Second, DuPont guidelines are 330F /165C for 120 seconds. However, these are ONLY guidelines, in an attempt to create one setting for as many types of fabric as possible. In reality the optimal settings will vary a lot.

A few examples:

• A lightweight, 100% cotton shirt, can be cured in 50-60 seconds at 360F /185C. The same shirt, if damp, will need around 120 seconds.
• A dry, lightweight poly-cotton shirt (5/95) will need around 90 seconds at 350F /175C... But a damp one will need 180 seconds.
• A lightweight poly-cotton shirt (35/65) may need around 5 minutes or more at at 320F /160C. Dry or damp...makes no much difference in this case.

These are rough estimates of what I can remember from the tests I've done with DuPont inks. I ended up with a list of more than 50 settings, which kept growing, until I had enough with the regular DTG printing method, and gave up. I now use my own hybrid method, and only 2 settings for everything:

• 100% Cotton: 50 seconds combined cure time at 360F /185C).
• Poly-Cotton: 90 seconds combined cure time at 320F /160C).

Some tips:

• If you are using a heat press, you should do multiple 30sec pressings, up to the time required, using the highest temperature the fabric and the ink can take. If are using a conveyor dryer, you should reduce the temperature, and increase the time as required to prevent charring the shirt.
• Be careful with poly-cotton t-shirts. Too high temperature, and/or too much time, will make the fabric very fragile, and will fall apart with the first stretch... as you try to wear it for example. Don't forget to do a stretching test before starting to using a particular setting in production.

 

[roland1]

Not true!
As I've already said... a dry shirt will NOT take 3 minutes to cure. The reason Polyprint power inks do cure faster is because they contain more binder. Screen-printing inks with even higher binder content, can cure in 15-30 seconds when using a heat-press. Also the method of curing is important. A heat press will cure the ink much faster than a conveyor dryer.

In more detail:

First of all, I wouldn't be surprised if DuPont makes the Polyprint inks, as they do make inks for many brands.
Second, DuPont guidelines are 330F /165C for 120 seconds. However, these are ONLY guidelines, in an attempt to create one setting for as many types of fabric as possible. In reality the optimal settings will vary a lot.

A few examples:

• A lightweight, 100% cotton shirt, can be cured in 50-60 seconds at 360F /185C. The same shirt, if damp, will need around 120 seconds.
• A dry, lightweight poly-cotton shirt (5/95) will need around 90 seconds at 350F /175C... But a damp one will need 180 seconds.
• A lightweight poly-cotton shirt (35/65) may need around 5 minutes or more at at 320F /160C. Dry or damp...makes no much difference in this case.

These are rough estimates of what I can remember from the tests I've done with DuPont inks. I ended up with a list of more than 50 settings, which kept growing, until I had enough with the regular DTG printing method, and gave up. I now use my own hybrid method, and only 2 settings for everything:

• 100% Cotton: 50 seconds combined cure time at 360F /185C).
• Poly-Cotton: 90 seconds combined cure time at 320F /160C).

Some tips:

• If you are using a heat press, you should do multiple 30sec pressings, up to the time required, using the highest temperature the fabric and the ink can take. If are using a conveyor dryer, you should reduce the temperature, and increase the time as required to prevent charring the shirt.
• Be careful with poly-cotton t-shirts. Too high temperature, and/or too much time, will make the fabric very fragile, and will fall apart with the first stretch... as you try to wear it for example. Don't forget to do a stretching test before starting to using a particular setting in production.

Thank you tabob, i have been experimenting with your advised setting (30 sec) and slowly but surely there is an improvement, i have gone from a 3 min press to 3x30 and 1 x 1 min, there is an improvement

 

[zerg71]

TABOB,
thank you for sharing your experience with us. I get the information about time and temperature of curing DuPont and Polyprint inks from my distributor and it was 4 years ago so it might change.

 

[roland1]

TABOB,
thank you for sharing your experience with us. I get the information about time and temperature of curing DuPont and Polyprint inks from my distributor and it was 4 years ago so it might change.

Hi Zerg, i was given the 3 min curing from the distributor only 5 months ago ? have you tried the 30 sec x ? curing?

 

[zerg71]

Hi Roland,
I am happy with results of 1,5 min curing (160 celsius degree). I can't see any difference when curing 3x30 sec. I tried it once because someone told me that will improve the washability but it did not.

What press are you using? Is it a special press with permeable bottom surface? It helps to get the steam out. At the beggining of my adventure with DTG I used a solid, hard bottom (good for vinyl, sublimation etc, but not DTG) and then we bought new, dedicated dor DTG. It improved situation a lot.

 

[roland1]

Hi Roland,
I am happy with results of 1,5 min curing (160 celsius degree). I can't see any difference when curing 3x30 sec. I tried it once because someone told me that will improve the washability but it did not.

What press are you using? Is it a special press with permeable bottom surface? It helps to get the steam out. At the beggining of my adventure with DTG I used a solid, hard bottom (good for vinyl, sublimation etc, but not DTG) and then we bought new, dedicated dor DTG. It improved situation a lot.

ahh yes zerg, if i recall you are using power inks correct?
i press with a geo knight DK 20s

 

[AnACustomPrints]

ZERG71 makes a good point. The purpose of the 3x3, with a lifting of the cover sheet, is to release the steam as we use a solid bottom press. I am interested in the press he speaks of. Is it possible he can provide info on it. It would save a lot of manual hassle. Always learning from those who know more.

 

[zerg71]

Yes I use power inks.

Sklep (pianka dtg)

in the link above you can see the permeable surface that I have in my presses. It's like a sponge.

Today is my last day in work. So it's the last day of dtg printing. But I will still visit this forum since I get a lot of knowledge from here. Probably I will also service the printers in my ex-company

good luck guys