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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
here is a issue I didn't know I had until a recent return customer walked into my shop with another shirt order , 2 weeks after I delivered a 100 shirt 2 color print job.

the Issue is the black ink seems to be fading..after 1 or 2 washes the black ink looks like a dark Grey , not a black.I don't know how long this has been an issue because I rarely ever see a the shirts after I deliver...no other customer has complained. so I did a test print with a design I had . cured it at 350 degrees for 30 seconds.....then proceeded to wash the shirt...first wash looked a little light but after the 2nd wash the black looked washed out .

could this be the ink I am using or something else....I don't think i am curing the shirts incorrectly...or am I?

any thoughts would be appreciated

Inked
 

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1) What brand of ink are you using?
2) Are you printing on white or dark shirts?
3) If printing on dark shirts (with a white underbase), how long are you flashing the white before you do your black layer?
 

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I don't want to bad mouth the ink maker just yet....until I know its the ink and not something I'm doing wrong!
Divulging the brand name of the ink that you used in this particular case, is not "bad mouthing" the ink maker ... unless you include some disparaging remarks along with it.

A high quality plastisol ink should not fade after 2 or 3 washings. If you can provide the name of the ink, someone may be able to help solve your problem.

If it IS the ink, there may be other folks who have had the same problem (black fading to grey after washing) who will, more than likely, be glad to bad mouth it for you. :)
 

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I would venture to guess what you're experiencing is fibrillation. After washing, fibers start to stick up through the ink deposit like dandelions making the print look washed out or grey. Has nothing to do with ink quality nor curing.

It can be remedied a number of ways. When printing darks on lights, there's a tendency to reduce the inks and or push the ink into the shirt/fibers as opposed to on top as is recommended when printing whites/lights on darks. Reducing print pressure, adjusting angle and off contact, not reducing the ink as much are a few remedies. And doing one sufficient pass as opposed to 2 (or more) That extra print stroke that MANY printers make, adds to the likelihood. Some printers use a clear underbase or print/flash/print even with dark on light.

Thing is that it happens more often than realized but most customers really don't make a big deal out of it. Faded, washed out, distressed is in. Like Inked said, no other customer complained. I've had the issue once. 100% cotton white with black imprint.

I read an account where a rather large printer, after having received complaints from a few customers, posted examples of prints and started offering underbased or overprinted options for which they charged an additional fee. Actually started somewhat of a trend preferring the heavier print and increased profit margin.
 

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Ty provided a great explanation of the probable cause ... and in all likelihood, using a slightly different technique will solve the problem.

Good luck ... let us know if you get a better outcome.
 

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It can be remedied a number of ways. When printing darks on lights, there's a tendency to reduce the inks and or push the ink into the shirt/fibers as opposed to on top as is recommended when printing whites/lights on darks. Reducing print pressure, adjusting angle and off contact, not reducing the ink as much are a few remedies.
Or don't add reducer at all, especially with black ink, navy, deep reds, purples. A good, quality ink should perform well with a stir or mix right out of the bucket then into the screen. Plastisols "warm" up with each pass/flood of the squeegee. Ink Physics in action.

Granted there are times when a particular print job will benefit from a little reducer but it can end up being a crutch that may be masking other problems - poor screen tension, bad exposure, incorrect flash and dryer dwells. A bad batch of black from the ink manufacturer can also be a cause. Sometimes happens to the best of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I dont add reducer to any ink , except white on occasion. I switched to union ink....trying to see if it may be a bad batch of ink.the reason I think it is the ink is because I used union forest green on a job 2 weeks ago, did a test print , then washed 5 times with no fading at all.

Inked
 
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