Its the ink. Nothing to do with the film. It is possible that it will work just fine if it has UV blockers. I am using a ink right now that has a red tint to it and it translucent but works fine.
Black Ink Fades When Drying on Transparecy
So has anyone had issues with dark prints on transparencies fading greatly upon drying?
I am getting very dark prints but within a minute (once dry) they fade very bad to where I can see light through them. The ink is UV dye ink on waterproof films (inkjet printer). I have used Ryonet films and Fixxons but both fade a lot once dry.
Any suggestions or advice on this or something I could spray to help the ink dry opaque as it prints?
I am getting very dark prints but within a minute (once dry) they fade very bad to where I can see light through them. The ink is UV dye ink on waterproof films (inkjet printer). I have used Ryonet films and Fixxons but both fade a lot once dry.
Any suggestions or advice on this or something I could spray to help the ink dry opaque as it prints?
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Thanks sben763, the inks are black UV resistant dye from cisinks.com (refill my own cartridges). The stock Canon ink was the exact same too.
I am really debating on trying some of the BlackMax or MaxBlack inks available to see if they dry dark and do a better job. One print can work but when I compared the black tape vs even 2 transparencies doubled up it was night and day difference during washout.
I am really debating on trying some of the BlackMax or MaxBlack inks available to see if they dry dark and do a better job. One print can work but when I compared the black tape vs even 2 transparencies doubled up it was night and day difference during washout.
Thanks sben763, the inks are black UV resistant dye from cisinks.com (refill my own cartridges). The stock Canon ink was the exact same too.
I am really debating on trying some of the BlackMax or MaxBlack inks available to see if they dry dark and do a better job. One print can work but when I compared the black tape vs even 2 transparencies doubled up it was night and day difference during washout.
Ready: I have been using ink from CISinks for my Epson 1400 since I bought it and I haven't had any exposure issues. I don't find that the ink fades as much as it gets absorbed into the output film and turns matte instead of gloss(since it's no longer wet). I can see through my films as well when i put them up to a light source, but dyebased ink has decent UV blockers and it doesn't seem to be a problem for me.
I did get a single black maxxx cartridge at a tradeshow to try out so I could test it before getting the entire kit. The films weren't darker coming from only 1 cartridge, but their ink had more of a red tint to it. My CISinks black has more of a yellow tint to it when you look through it. The red tint I would assume would be much better, but I didn't notice a difference when washing out screens.
I hope that helped you a little. I just bought an ink set from Cobraink and I will test out how their inks compare to CISinks when I run out of the ink I already have.
Good point about soaking up the ink and not really fading. I am worried also that down the road when I start doing process and simulated work that the films won't be dark enough and problems will come up, even with the UV blockers.Ready: I have been using ink from CISinks for my Epson 1400 since I bought it and I haven't had any exposure issues. I don't find that the ink fades as much as it gets absorbed into the output film and turns matte instead of gloss(since it's no longer wet). I can see through my films as well when i put them up to a light source, but dyebased ink has decent UV blockers and it doesn't seem to be a problem for me.
I did get a single black maxxx cartridge at a tradeshow to try out so I could test it before getting the entire kit. The films weren't darker coming from only 1 cartridge, but their ink had more of a red tint to it. My CISinks black has more of a yellow tint to it when you look through it. The red tint I would assume would be much better, but I didn't notice a difference when washing out screens.
I hope that helped you a little. I just bought an ink set from Cobraink and I will test out how their inks compare to CISinks when I run out of the ink I already have.
How much light are you seeing through the film once dried? I go from can not see any light to being able to see the compact fluorescent bulb just fine, even the outline and detail of the bulb and cover.
I will post a pic in a bit of the film once dried too.
I never really checked to see exactly how transparent the ink is when held up to a light source. I don't really check it anymore since I get the same results every time. I can say that the black max cartridge I got to sample definitely outputted a darker black. Held up to a light it had a red tint and slightly darker than the stock Epson ink or the CISinks ink I am using(they were both tinted yellow). I will try to remember to post back here when I switch to the Cobra Ink, but I still have a half of a water bottle size container of Black ink from CISink so it might be a while still.
If you have a rip you can try to lay down more ink or print from multiple print heads. I haven't messed with my RIP much since I got it because the settings I'm using are fine for me (Film Maker V3). I know that when I tried to print from all 6 cartridges the ink would run no matter how small the droplets or little ink I tried to set it to lay down so I always just use the black cartridge only. When I have more output films I can afford to mess up I will mess with the settings again.
If you have a rip you can try to lay down more ink or print from multiple print heads. I haven't messed with my RIP much since I got it because the settings I'm using are fine for me (Film Maker V3). I know that when I tried to print from all 6 cartridges the ink would run no matter how small the droplets or little ink I tried to set it to lay down so I always just use the black cartridge only. When I have more output films I can afford to mess up I will mess with the settings again.
Scott what printer you use with Fillmaker? Do you have the dongle version or activation? If you have a 1400 series I could show you how to make it print without running if you were to print from all channels.
@op. Since your using a Canon the blackmaxx may not be compatible. If you Canon uses heat to form the droplet for the black channel it will not work. If it has a cold process it will work. I know canon uses both and has heads that use a combo in the same head.
@op. Since your using a Canon the blackmaxx may not be compatible. If you Canon uses heat to form the droplet for the black channel it will not work. If it has a cold process it will work. I know canon uses both and has heads that use a combo in the same head.
Sean I have the dongle version(although I simply can not get it to work on my new computer so I'm still using it on my old dying computer). Anyone know if they made any improvements to warrant getting their V4?? And I would love to know how to run all channels with no ink running. I'm using pretty good output film, but the printer lays down more ink than the film can absorb quickly it seems. I'm currently using the WP output film from Spotcolorsupply.
And I'm still using my Epson 1400 with CISink inks and refillable cartridges.
And I'm still using my Epson 1400 with CISink inks and refillable cartridges.
Call me Susan but that CISinks worked way better than the Canon stock inks. I was very hesitant about believing the hype about those UV blockers because Canon uses UV ink also and I had to triple up the film to get close to the results of black tape with the stock ink but one film now with the CISinks.
Now the test will be halftones and process prints
Thanks again you two for helping and your suggestions!
Now the test will be halftones and process prints
Thanks again you two for helping and your suggestions!
Download v4. There is no upgrade fee as the license files will work for V4. PM me if needed I can help ya get it to work on your new PC. I have windows 8 and had to use V4 in order to get it to stop from erroring out.Sean I have the dongle version(although I simply can not get it to work on my new computer so I'm still using it on my old dying computer). Anyone know if they made any improvements to warrant getting their V4?? And I would love to know how to run all channels with no ink running. I'm using pretty good output film, but the printer lays down more ink than the film can absorb quickly it seems. I'm currently using the WP output film from Spotcolorsupply.
And I'm still using my Epson 1400 with CISink inks and refillable cartridges.
@op. The canon printers work. Like I mentioned if it uses the heat in the head this is were you will run into issues later on. Even if a cold process the canon splatters. With a PC microscope you can see it. Depending on your exposure unit will be how much it effects the final output. If you have a unfiltered black light unit the undercutting may take care of any splatter. When doing halftone you can get splatter that will effect the image. As I stated before though they will work. The high end IPF series canons actually are supported by filmmaker and print similar to a Epson. They may have made improvements but I haven't kept up on the tech specs of the newer canons
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