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Hello all- I had a question for you experts out there. Attach you will see a logo I will be printing on dark color shirts. I have done a few mulitcolor prints in the past and used a white back plate for the entire design.

My question for you folks is with this design would it be better off to just do a whole white back plate or should I just do a back plate where the white and red will be and not the black??? Hope this makes sense

I was thinking since I output my own transparency to save money perhaps I should just do a back plate where the white and red is but in the past I would have just made the whole graphic with a white back plate and put red on and then the black.

Another thing I was thinking for heat would it be better not to have so much ink???

Thanks for all your help the image is attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So solid white were it's white and no back plate in the black??

Please if you could explain why. I am still learning as I go. I saw many videos about using solid back plates when doing multiple color on dark shirts.

Thanks for your help
 

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I to would only place white where absolutely needed. If you are doing a dark shirt where the red wont look right without a white underbase, then put white there as well. I have made the mistake of trying to lay down one big white plate and placing blue and red on top. The image came out thick, and at times a little pink in the white areas. Aloha and good luck.
 

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I would imagine you make the white areas just a little thicker so when the black lays down it will merge over the white without any gaps??? I know you use registration marks but I saw a video about color seperation and explained to give so much of a fill stroke.

I created print ready screens with the white just a little thicker than the image displayed the red as well and then the black just as you see in original image. This should give a solid coverage???

I did this shirt for a local texas hold em business and printed a whole big white plate but the sign had a lot of white.

Lots of ink on transparency for these three screens.

I figured with the COPAS logo it would be the same but the more I thought about it the more I thought I did not need so much white. The size of the print on shirt will be about 7" H
 

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Ok I would recommend you do this two ways. You don't need a full under base under the black.

Just put a .5 - 1 point stroke on the white underbase to make your trap. You will want the under base on the red also. The black will choke everything.

Option A
white under base (For heathers you may just need one pass.)
flash
red
optional quick flash
black

Option B (Darks)
White Under base, flash, print, flash
Red
optional flash
black

If we printed this we would just want to do an underbase and an additional color as a highlight white to avoid a flash or two and speed things up and not have three layers of ink on the red. Just depends on if you do black shirts or not and if its a good size run.
 

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very easy job..

white flash.. red, top white, black..

only underbase the white and red. some of your shirts you wont even need an underbase for the red.
 

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very easy job..

white flash.. red, top white, black..

only underbase the white and red. some of your shirts you wont even need an underbase for the red.
Yes, I can second that. The red would be brighter with an underbase if your going on an athletic heather. If you may be doing darks then just set it up so you don't have to make new screens unless they are big separate orders.
 

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We would have a little different take on this. Under base white under the white and red areas. Then black, red, flash, then highlight white. We would have a thin gutter around the black so that as the ink spreads, it will fill in the space between colors rather than trapping with the black and getting a smear. Our experience is that if the red is not flashed, it will pick up on the next screen and the final image will be mottled or tend toward pinkish. Printing the white last ensures a bright white. There will be no noticeable black pickup on the red screen because it sits directly onto the shirt and will be absorbed onto the garment. A little irregular, but works well for us.
 

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We would have a little different take on this. Under base white under the white and red areas. Then black, red, flash, then highlight white. We would have a thin gutter around the black so that as the ink spreads, it will fill in the space between colors rather than trapping with the black and getting a smear. Our experience is that if the red is not flashed, it will pick up on the next screen and the final image will be mottled or tend toward pinkish. Printing the white last ensures a bright white. There will be no noticeable black pickup on the red screen because it sits directly onto the shirt and will be absorbed onto the garment. A little irregular, but works well for us.
That sounds like good advice. We would use a higher mesh count on the red to avoid offset on top colors but your way sounds good, will have to try that some time. Thanks
 
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