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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
These are the things I've learned that seem like really important things I wish I new right away.

Don't buy cheap CIS systems on ebay. (might have needed a chip resetter and that's why it didn't work)

You need a chip resetter in most cases in order to refill your cartridges.

When your done pressing a dark iron all, turn the backing sheet that you pulled off, over and press again(shiny side down) and it will give a glossy look

To help line up designs, fold and press a line to help position your work.

Use a laser(just read this) to help line up your design.

dark transfers are basically white and will be the only way you can get white in your design.

Light transfers have no white on them and you have to remember to mirror your image.

If you buy clipart&more from IMSI you can get a year free at clipart.com which is a $159 subscription if you make your own designs.

epson.com sells ink and refurbished printers for a good resonable price.

This is the best forum to learn from others!
 

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Hi Stephanie, welcome to the forums. Thanks for posting what you have learned, I am sure it will help others :) Keep up the good work.
 

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thanks for the post Stephanie, I would like to add the best alignment tools I have used (over 13 yrs in the business) is the teesquareit and the Logo it sold by www.heatpressessentials.com . Badlou has made 2 great tools that every person doing transfers of any kind should have. ...... JB
 

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When your done pressing a dark iron all, turn the backing sheet that you pulled off, over and press again(shiny side down) and it will give a glossy look
This is interesting. Do you mean the transfer paper that the Ironall Dark comes on, the travels through the printer with it? That would mean no need for Dazzle Trans? I'd like to try this, I just need to know for sure if that's what you mean. Thanks so much. :)

PS: Don't forget pre-press the shirt to remove moisture, and to stretch your shirt after the first press and re-press it for a few seconds.

tyblossom said:
To help line up designs, fold and press a line to help position your work.

Use a laser(just read this) to help line up your design.
In addition to those and what JB mentioned, the tool I use is from Walmart, a June Taylor Fringe Cut. It only cost me $11, and it is lined and numbered. After I posted that somewhere a few others said they use it, too. :)

The laser seemed interesting to me as well, but I got a bit confused when they brought 2 into the mix... lol. :D

tyblossom said:
dark transfers are basically white and will be the only way you can get white in your design.

Light transfers have no white on them and you have to remember to mirror your image.
And the reason white is an issue is because printers don't print white ink.

For the dark papers for dark shirts, that means you also have to cut away any unwanted white parts of the design.

And for light papers for light/white shirts, that means if you use a shirt that is a light color, the color of the shirt will come through where there is white in the design. (The shirt color could also tint the colors in the design, depending on the design.)


tyblossom said:
If you buy clipart&more from IMSI you can get a year free at clipart.com which is a $159 subscription if you make your own designs.
I used the one that was $6.49 and had no problems at all signing up. One member said she has gotten her clipart.com sub for 3 yrs in a row this way. Awesome!! :)

tyblossom said:
epson.com sells ink and refurbished printers for a good resonable price.
They sure do. For the price of the refurbished printer that comes with a full set of ink, it is like getting the ink half priced and the printer for free (That's Rodney's line... he cracks me up with that!)

tyblossom said:
This is the best forum to learn from others!
I agree with you!! Thank you for sharing your great post. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
YES, that's what I mean. The part that comes through that you print on. Peel it off and turn it around shiny part down on your design and it turns your transfer shiny. I don't know if it does as good of a job as what your using, but I think it turns out great. Loved your tips and explinations too. It's really taken me a lot of posts to learn these really important things. I think many times the pros on the boards speak so knowledgable about what they know that the newbie's don't get what they talk about all the time.
 

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Lol, Stephanie, I remember reading posts and then doing searches on the words in the posts that I didn't understand.. lol. Well, I don't know if I can help everytime, but if you need anything just post in a thread, if you want me to see the thread, just send me a pm with a link. I'll help if I can *in plain English :)*.

Thank you so much for the tip on the shiny transfer. I haven't tried any shiny transfers, but it's always great to have all the neat tips at your fingertips for times when something like that would be just perfect for a project. Plus, the coolest thing is it is Free! Came with the paper... hehe. I don't know how you figured that out, but that is so cool - Thanks, Stephanie. Have a great night. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There is a white film on the transfer paper that then sticks to the shirt. All the other colors overlay onto the white.
 

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Here are a few more tips and some for the Laser transfer paper users.

1. use a lint roller to roll off any lint when pressing transfers for lights, you will entomb every single little fuzz or hair in your poly window.
2. lets say even when you used that lint roller a fuzz is captured, I use a safety pin very carefully to let it escape. This works most of the time.
3. I pre-press 2x or so without a T-shirt on when I first start my heat press, after it has warmed to the working temp. I do this to warm the bottom platen, this is especially important for Duracotton.
4. For a glossy look with Duracotton, on your second press using Teflon, let it cool, then peel. Oooo shiny!
5. I know Image Clip is self weeding but I still do a very casual trim because I find some of the poly will collect on the very edges of the Red Paper.
6. when applying rhinestones to special fabrics, always perform a small test on a corner or inner fold of fabric to make sure the fabric can take the heat.
7. Always use a dry toothy cloth (like a terry cloth washrag) to wipe down your teflon after the second print, I do this for all transfer types. Often some of the ink/toner will adhere to the teflon and it will wipe right off.
 

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Yep basically you use the opaque paper and where ever you want white in your design, you just leave it blank. Because the paper is white, where ever there is no color, because the paper is white, that part of the graphic will also be white.
 

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If the printer won't print white, how do you get white on a dark transfer, or white when using a shirt that is blue or green?

Yep, with opaque paper, the background is white. It's like a white sheet of paper you print on, but it's not paper. :)

If you print the letter A on an 8.5x11 sheet of Ironall for Darks, the whole sheet will be white except where you printed the A.

If you peel the Ironall Dark off of the transfer paper to apply it to the dark shirt, it will be an 8.5x11 white rectangle with an A printed on it.

If you don't want any of the white, you have to cut it away and leave only the letter A you printed. This can be done by hand, but this is where the cutters that can do contour cutting come in handy. It can cut the A out for you.

That is how opaque papers are designed. They block the color of the shirt from coming thru. Think of them as white pieces of paper, and you'll have the idea.

For light shirts using a paper for lights, using a white shirt puts the white in the design. If you use a shirt with color, the color of the shirt will show in the design whereever there is white in the design.

Depending on the color of the shirt, and the colors in the design, the shirt can actually change the colors in the design by layering the two colors together, creating a new blended color.

Some folks have used dark paper on a light colored shirt to keep the white in their design, and to prevent color blending. :)
 

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Haha, I was writing at the same time as TM and Sunny. :) But that's it in a nutshell, the opaque paper puts the white in the design automatically by being white.
 

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If the printer won't print white, how do you get white on a dark transfer, or white when using a shirt that is blue or green?
The opaque transfers for dark t-shirts are white themselves and the white parts aren't see through.

With an opaque transfer for darks, you are actually applying the actual PAPER to the t-shirts when you heat press. That means the white in the paper stays on the t-shirt to make the white in the design.

In contrast, with a paper for lights like jpss, you are only transferring the INK to the t-shirt and the paper gets pulled off. So since no white ink is printed, no white ink is transferred.

I hope that makes sense.

These videos might "show" it better than I can tell it:

DARK OPAQUE TRANSFER PAPER like Ironall for Darks (watch how she peels the packing and applies the actual paper to the tee):
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duDJ3rpHlOE[/media]


VS TRANSFER PAPER FOR LIGHTS like JPSS (see how the paper is laid ink side down, and then the paper is pulled off -- some ink stays on the paper)
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce-3FeCUkBc[/media]EDIT: looks like everyone was answering the same question at the same time :) Maybe I'll make a new thread for my post :)
 

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makes perfect sense, thanks! One more quick question, will the contour cutters still leave a small white edge around the image, or are they going to cut precisely onto the edge of the image, leaving no border?
 

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ahhhh I'm so excited, I can't wait to buy my press and get back to work. I ordered an Epson c120 and missed the FedEx guy by 10 minutes! grrr
 
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