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Best Dark Transfer Paper

12715 Views 19 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  rudravinyl
Hey guys,
What’s your #1 choice overall for dark transfer paper. Something that doesn’t crack, softest hand etc. Where do you buy yours ?
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I mainly screen print, but have done some JPSS transfers for light/white garments (works great).

I have not "gone to the dark side" because I am not happy with the available options. For me, at least, there is nothing with the right mix of cost, hand, durability, and unfussy repeatable process. Every option has some of those things, but none currently has, or may ever have, all.

There are a few, more or less, DIY hybrid processes that have been tried by various people with various degrees of success. Best attempted only by those with the background to have thought of such crazy ideas all on their own :)


That blather aside, I'm sure others will chime in with their experience of what they prefer to work with and why. But for every one of them, there are at least 10 of me who keep following the progress, and keep deciding it's not quite there yet.
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One of the best and "low " budget options is Laser printer with white ink and forever paper but I don't know if the results is good!I know that Durability is good but I can't tell for soft hand ! For my dark T-shirt I stay with vinyl and make multicolor stencils designs
Using

(1) Okidata White Laser
(2) Forever Laser Dark Low Temp
(3) TransferRip software

Durability is outstanding.
Hand is soft.

Since Forever will print at a variety of temps, I've yet to find a material that would damage under the press.
would love to know more about this process and see some samples
would love to know more about this process and see some samples
Not sure what their process for that would be but their website is:

www.forevertransferpaper.com
i think larry meant, samples from actual users

being a somewhat new process, people like to see real-world experience before plunking down $7k-$10k

you'd think with all the hype and constant pushing of the sheer joy of this process there would be something

we get lots of horror story images, but nary a 25px image of it actually working

first poster: Durability is outstanding
Hand is soft
I've yet to find a material that would damage under the press using this process
next poster: would love to know more about this process and see some samples
first poster: Not sure what their process for that would be

so you are either a bot or you fibbed about using this process to great success on every material you have
which is it?
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i think larry meant, samples from actual users

being a somewhat new process, people like to see real-world experience before plunking down $7k-$10k

you'd think with all the hype and constant pushing of the sheer joy of this process there would be something

we get lots of horror story images, but nary a 25px image of it actually working

first poster: Durability is outstanding
Hand is soft
I've yet to find a material that would damage under the press using this process
next poster: would love to know more about this process and see some samples
first poster: Not sure what their process for that would be

so you are either a bot or you fibbed about using this process to great success on every material you have
which is it?
I should even dignify this with a response but will be nice about it.

If you've the time to provide the kind of detail that you think is appropriate, more power to you.

My response stands as is. Been at it for years. Have never had a material damaged by it. Have never had a single customer complaint about either hand or durability.

My only recommendation to you is that if you have time to submit samples of your work to strangers asking for opinions is that you find a job doing something else. Because you obviously have too much time on your hands.
i think i understood some of that

when they say 'samples', it is simply uploading an image or two of your stunning process
maybe a pic after dozen or more washes
takes about 30 secs

you are just like the rest,
nobody that extols the 'magic-bullet' status of this very expensive process has ever posted pics
why?
why not you?

samples to strangers?
is that not why we are part of this community?
you'd rather have people lose their hard earned money on a process that lacks a scintilla of evidence as to its efficacy
on the contrary there are hundreds of posts about its inefficacy

bottom-line: another mirage
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Using

(1) Okidata White Laser
(2) Forever Laser Dark Low Temp
(3) TransferRip software

Durability is outstanding.
Hand is soft.

Since Forever will print at a variety of temps, I've yet to find a material that would damage under the press.
Is the TransferRip software it's own entity or is it provided through Forever?
We're using an OKI and MagicTouch's products, but one of our EU partners is using Forever and we might make the switch - but we already paid for the Space Control license through MagicTouch.
Is the TransferRip software it's own entity or is it provided through Forever?
We're using an OKI and MagicTouch's products, but one of our EU partners is using Forever and we might make the switch - but we already paid for the Space Control license through MagicTouch.
TO my knowledge, TransferRip is sold through Forever and their sales reps. I've been able to make adjustments with it to press Neenah but it was a trial and error process to figure it (Neenah lays down and entirely different back that impacts the colors).
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TO my knowledge, TransferRip is sold through Forever and their sales reps. I've been able to make adjustments with it to press Neenah but it was a trial and error process to figure it (Neenah lays down and entirely different back that impacts the colors).
Awesome thanks! - not to hijack the thread - but what products are you printing with the Forever? Just Shirts or are you doing hats, mugs, totes, etc?
Perhaps you can help me since you're obviously a pro.....

You write of a "very expensive" process. I've focused on short-runs for almost 4 years and have developed a nice niche in that line but am always open minded to other possibilities.

1). Please refer me to a traditional screen printer who'll even speak with a retail customers regarding a run of 8 shirts with 6 color logo.

2). Please refer me to a DTG printer who only runs their printer for a few hours a day, can then simply turn off the printer for a couple days, and have a customer walk in and, within a few minutes have a design loaded, ready to print 8 shirts for their while they wait.

By the way, those printers also need to be able to quote an out the door pricing at under $12 per shirt and have the 8 shirts ready for the retail customer in under an hour.

No digital heat transfer is "ever" going to have the durability of screen printing. However, a standard digital print size can be made for a cost of about $2.50 ($1.75 for the dark print paper and $0.75 for supplies including toner and wear on the drums and other consumables). That print should, if pressed correctly, should be viable for 15+ washes by which time most t-shirts in the lower end price scale) are starting to show significant wear themselves.

Hundreds of customers with thousands of prints have proven it for me. 0 return items and regular re-orders from sports groups, churches, youth groups, and annual charity events.
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Awesome thanks! - not to hijack the thread - but what products are you printing with the Forever? Just Shirts or are you doing hats, mugs, totes, etc?
I've tried hats .... and no luck. Just haven't spent the time learning the process, I'm afraid. Whatever I do, it seems to leave a shadow around the print.

On mugs, I do sublimation. I tried the hard print (laser) on them but the washability is poor. I find sublimation MUCH simpler (and simple is always good for me).

I have done t-shirts, polo's, sweatshirts, and hoodies very successfully. I've honestly never had a call for totes though I can't imaging why it wouldn't work.


Interestingly, I HAVE done some printing on wooden cutting boards (of all things). Took a bit to figure it out (I actually use ice to quickly cool the print before peeling as it seems to help adhesion in that process). There is still an issue of durability with it tho it's not a real concern since these kinds of things are not used as cutting boards but as deco items.
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On wood eh, very cool.
I prefer sublimation also, but we wanted a wider assortment and some customers/partners had a demand for full color... I agree though, I'm not sold on the wash results or quite frankly the image quality
Thanks!
I've tried hats .... and no luck. Just haven't spent the time learning the process, I'm afraid. Whatever I do, it seems to leave a shadow around the print.

On mugs, I do sublimation. I tried the hard print (laser) on them but the washability is poor. I find sublimation MUCH simpler (and simple is always good for me).

I have done t-shirts, polo's, sweatshirts, and hoodies very successfully. I've honestly never had a call for totes though I can't imaging why it wouldn't work.


Interestingly, I HAVE done some printing on wooden cutting boards (of all things). Took a bit to figure it out (I actually use ice to quickly cool the print before peeling as it seems to help adhesion in that process). There is still an issue of durability with it tho it's not a real concern since these kinds of things are not used as cutting boards but as deco items.
That print should, if pressed correctly, should be viable for 15+ washes by which time most t-shirts in the lower end price scale) are starting to show significant wear themselves.
15+ washes is pretty low.
About 50 washes is considered the life of a shirt.
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Hey Joe, I have been using Forever Dark with the Oki white toner printer for a few years now, just finished up my 7th box (that's 700 sheets) this year. BTW I have the RIP software, paid for itself in less than a month. I agree the Forever has a big operating window. However I've returned 3 boxes to my supplier for various reasons- the latest is massive areas of the 'A' sheet are peppered with white adhesive from the 'B' sheet after marrying in the non-toner areas of the 'A' sheet. The supplier's storage conditions are horrible and the manufacture dates are always 5 months old or older. My process hasn't changed and I'm convinced it's not my problem. Have you had this problem and where are you getting yours from? Your comments are welcomed.
Hey Joe, I have been using Forever Dark with the Oki white toner printer for a few years now, just finished up my 7th box (that's 700 sheets) this year. BTW I have the RIP software, paid for itself in less than a month. I agree the Forever has a big operating window. However I've returned 3 boxes to my supplier for various reasons- the latest is massive areas of the 'A' sheet are peppered with white adhesive from the 'B' sheet after marrying in the non-toner areas of the 'A' sheet. The supplier's storage conditions are horrible and the manufacture dates are always 5 months old or older. My process hasn't changed and I'm convinced it's not my problem. Have you had this problem and where are you getting yours from? Your comments are welcomed.
I have not had the issue anytime recently. I DID have a similar issue at one time but it was easily resolved simply by placing 4 sheets of standard print paper over top of the B sheet when pressing the A/B process. I have been doing that as a standard for a couple years now and can honestly say that I've not had a single bad marriage during that entire time.

The best pricing I've found for Forever Laser Dark is Serigraf in Ireland. Even with international shipping, the pricing is well over $100 less than found in the US. Shipping time for standard is about 10-12 days but only 3-4 if rushed. (Even with the rush shipping, the net pricing is still almost $100 less than anywhere else in the US).
Canon White toner printer with Epson sublimation ink jet on Image Clip for Darks.
AL
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