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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello everyone. i am about to start screen printing on a homemade press and was wondering on using a 200 or a 230 mesh for my standard spot color jobs and simulated jobs. i read in the forums that using lower mesh counts will have a thicker deposit of ink and since i am going to use plastisol inks i read here that you should use 200 mesh count and above to achieve a softer hand.

my question is that in your opinion which is the much better mesh count to use between the two for the said jobs? ill be basically printing almost all my jobs with either of them once i have decided which to buy. i am only a beginner and every help would be greatly appreciated. tnx alot.
 

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The higher the mesh count, the finer detail the screen will hold. The softer hand bit is right on. You will find that most people on manual presses us 158 for everything except the finer detail. A soft hand is ideal, but good coverage is also important. I may use anything from 110 to 230 depending of the requirements of the job. You will just have to print to find what works for you. God Bless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The higher the mesh count, the finer detail the screen will hold. The softer hand bit is right on. You will find that most people on manual presses us 158 for everything except the finer detail. A soft hand is ideal, but good coverage is also important. I may use anything from 110 to 230 depending of the requirements of the job. You will just have to print to find what works for you. God Bless.

so is it ok to start with
4 110 mesh
6 156 mesh
8 305 mesh

and for you what would you prefer a 200 or a 230 mesh?
tnx alot sir for the input.
 

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I wouldn't get 8 305 mesh on a manual, maybe 1 to start with. Your 200's and 230's will be fine for the majority of you halftone images. You can even capture pretty good halftones on your 156 mesh screens as long as you have your exposure times dialed in. I would suggest to get a couple 125 mesh screens as well, these are good when you are printing on dark garments and you need to lay down more ink and still hold fine details.
 

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305 for 4 color process. Some shops do not do 4 color process. You have to have the same stroke and pressure for each shirt. It is really involved and the results, with a manuel, can very. thin your ink with anything over 200, and unless your ink is old, you should be able to use it straight from the bucket for 156. You don't have to thin it much, but make sure it is mixed up well.
 

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305 for 4 color process. Some shops do not do 4 color process. You have to have the same stroke and pressure for each shirt. It is really involved and the results, with a manuel, can very. thin your ink with anything over 200, and unless your ink is old, you should be able to use it straight from the bucket for 156. You don't have to thin it much, but make sure it is mixed up well.
I have to agree with pollchaps.

I use 160's and 230's.
Ink control with additives is a critical tool to have in your arsenal.

Also using elogated mesh or "smartscreen" is a *od send. They lay down less ink and cover better. Aluminum Sefar Screens are good.

Truth be known I almost exclusively use 230's for everything including white: Union Diamond White <-- very expensive, but the Holy Grail of White Ink. And 55lpi halftones for halftones.

You do not need 305 mesh at this stage of the game. That's more for auto printing.


For me 4 C/P is more about how well you make the seps AND the screens. A good rule of thumb for halftone screens is a simple formula: 50 lpi x 4= 200 mesh count plus 1 so 230 mesh.

I have to ask what is your light source?
 

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i read in some threads that you will need 305 for 4process printing. so is it ok if i dont buy a 305 at first and if ever do some 4 color process on a 230?
4 color process is usually done on an auto for color consistency and the higher mesh counts.

If a customer wants the color to look the same on every garment, it will be next to impossible to meet the requirement on a manual press.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
We keep 156 for white and text designs. 200 for anything else. thin your ink with some reducer and this will help cover better.

ok sir tnx alot. so i decided not to buy a 305 mesh. since i am just starting out. will this set of mesh be ok

4 110
8 156
10 200
8 230

because i made 30 wooden screen frames and ill just stretch it by myself and i was trying to come up with what screen mesh to use that would total to 30.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have to agree with pollchaps.

I use 160's and 230's.
Ink control with additives is a critical tool to have in your arsenal.

Also using elogated mesh or "smartscreen" is a *od send. They lay down less ink and cover better. Aluminum Sefar Screens are good.

Truth be known I almost exclusively use 230's for everything including white: Union Diamond White <-- very expensive, but the Holy Grail of White Ink. And 55lpi halftones for halftones.

You do not need 305 mesh at this stage of the game. That's more for auto printing.


For me 4 C/P is more about how well you make the seps AND the screens. A good rule of thumb for halftone screens is a simple formula: 50 lpi x 4= 200 mesh count plus 1 so 230 mesh.

I have to ask what is your light source?
ok sir. il just skip buying the 305 mesh. may i know what is an elongated mesh? also we dont have alot of good platisol brands here in the Philippines. the only one that i know that are available here are union, wilflex, and excalibur. i tried to contact each of their dealers here. and the only one that i was able to talk to was form the distributor of excalibur.

my light source? is that an exposure uint? i made one myself i used 4 toshiba blue lights. which is 6 inches away from my glass. haven't tested it yet since i still havent bought the supplies needed for silkscreen printing. maybe this week ill be able to buy the necessary items needed for screen printing. :)
 
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