Has anyone sub the color gray successfully? Without it turning green? on 100% Poly Fabric to be exact. If so what values are you using? Have you had success with Gray Gradients? How about Black Gradients? I'm beginning to think it is not possible... No matter what values I put in for grey it turns greenish. setup: WF1100, Cobra Inks, Cobra Profile, Dye Trans Paper, ILLY, Press 400 degress 60 seconds note (I have tried different times and temps along with pressure same results.) SOON MY CUSTOMER WILL KILL ME IF I DO NOT GET THIS CORRECT!!! Any thoughts?
Anyone Sub Grayscale ?
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Adobe Illustrator is a poor program for a desktop printer setup.
Using Photoshop or Corel Draw you can get decent color. The WF1100 and Cobra inks properly setup can give decent color if you don't use AI.
Adobe Illustrator was designed for printers that have Postscript capability. A RIP program can provide that for printers that don't have it built in, but expensive.
In Adobe Illustrator you can get accurate colors on a Epson desktop if you use vector swatches for reference though, but bitmaps are not accurate in AI.
Refer to the link below.
Illustrator Help | Troubleshoot problems printing to non-PostScript printers
If you have to use AI then I can help you set up for swatches but any photos you do will not be accurate without a lot of tweaking back and forth in a bitmap editor like PS.
[quote
If you have to use AI then I can help you set up for swatches but any photos you do will not be accurate without a lot of tweaking back and forth in a bitmap editor like PS.[/quote]
I would appriciate the vector swatch. I use the standard RGB swatch as of now. I have a PDF file of my Logo that I am trying to print but all of the grays and graysacles are turning green.
I don't know what to do at this point, my customer wants to ring my neck already.
If you have to use AI then I can help you set up for swatches but any photos you do will not be accurate without a lot of tweaking back and forth in a bitmap editor like PS.[/quote]
I would appriciate the vector swatch. I use the standard RGB swatch as of now. I have a PDF file of my Logo that I am trying to print but all of the grays and graysacles are turning green.
I don't know what to do at this point, my customer wants to ring my neck already.
When I refer to "swatches" ... these are not directly the RGB pallette color squares in AI, these are those RGB pallette color squares in AI actually printed and transfered onto material that represents your substrate. This gives you an advance visual indication of where colors (which have RGB values) "land" after heat transfer.
Error is not a problem as long as error is repeatable and can be referenced to by a numeric RGB value. This statement will make more sense when you read the info at the link below.
See the info here ...
CMYK & RGB Color Charts - MultiRIP Sublimation, Transfers, Photograph and Direct-to-Garment Printing RIP Softwares
Watch the videos and read the web page. There are also palettes in Postscript which can be used in AI. The concepts are the same no matter what graphic program you use.
Read the webpage and later I will post some screen shots of how to setup AI with the profile and the WF1100 Epson driver settings. As I mentioned before AI is a problem with bitmaps, but you should at least have the ICC profile setup up correctly before vector printing with the swatch method.
Thanks !! I actually did this I printed out the 11" x 17" 2040 colors pressed it came out great!!! I got this off of your older post in the JPSS heat transfer forum. I actually use it quite often!!!
The problem is that it does not include grays.
However I looked at the 510 colors and it has a grayscale chart at the bottom. I took a couple of thoes values and tried to apply it to the logo that I am working on but no avail still green.
I also tried to load the multirip swatch but it seems to be for photoshop only.
Your normal color setup should be ...
1. Make sure your document color mode is "RGB".
2. Set the AI color settings to match the file screenshot023.jpg when you go to save the settings you can create a unique name for that, ie your ink brand.
3. Set the Color management to the settings as shown in screenshot023.jpg EXCEPT set the Printer Profile to your sublimation ICC profile, not to Adobe RGB1998 AND select the WF1100 printer.
4. Set the WF1100 per screenshot010.jpg
Confirm that your swatches were printed per the setup above, if not reprint.
Depending on the outcome of the above I know a dirty secret to force black ink printing only for the grayscale part of your image. It can work if the grayscale part of the design is not too tightly packed with the regular colors.
If you print with pure black for grayscales the results are better since pure grayscales are only an illusion, they are black printing dots mixed with varying amounts of white space in between the dots to give the illusion of more or less "gray". The dirty secret is how to do it in a design that has color and not a B&W design to start with.
Let me know.
Confirm if you are setup like the screenshots show.
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Confirm that your swatches were printed per the setup above, if not reprint.
Ok I did this and reprinted with your settings. Print came out looking same as before I changed profiles. It may sub differently but I won't know till I go to the shop tonight to press it.
Depending on the outcome of the above I know a dirty secret to force black ink printing only for the grayscale part of your image. It can work if the grayscale part of the design is not too tightly packed with the regular colors.
If you print with pure black for grayscales the results are better since pure grayscales are only an illusion, they are black printing dots mixed with varying amounts of white space in between the dots to give the illusion of more or less "gray". The dirty secret is how to do it in a design that has color and not a B&W design to start with.
I would love to know this dirty little secret, the supplied logo that my customer wants sublimated is a black and white logo with grayscale. I hope I'm not in trouble, and that I will be able to sometime soon print this out correctly.
Let me know.
Confirm if you are setup like the screenshots show.[/quote]
Thank you so much for taking the time to help me out.
Ok I did this and reprinted with your settings. Print came out looking same as before I changed profiles. It may sub differently but I won't know till I go to the shop tonight to press it.
Depending on the outcome of the above I know a dirty secret to force black ink printing only for the grayscale part of your image. It can work if the grayscale part of the design is not too tightly packed with the regular colors.
If you print with pure black for grayscales the results are better since pure grayscales are only an illusion, they are black printing dots mixed with varying amounts of white space in between the dots to give the illusion of more or less "gray". The dirty secret is how to do it in a design that has color and not a B&W design to start with.
I would love to know this dirty little secret, the supplied logo that my customer wants sublimated is a black and white logo with grayscale. I hope I'm not in trouble, and that I will be able to sometime soon print this out correctly.
Let me know.
Confirm if you are setup like the screenshots show.[/quote]
Thank you so much for taking the time to help me out.
Attachments
Question when I try to open the file MR_510_RGB_LTR_TIFF I get this message what option do I choose?? I would like to print and press this file using the profiles or "swatches" that you gave me.
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Just click OK and use the 2nd option, the 2n and 3rd options are really the same in this instance since they call out the same profile. In the 3rd option you could reassign a new profile but sublimating you should set the incoming image to the working space profile.
Of course the images won't really reveal until you actually heat transfer. But your setup is correct.
If your image is a composite of regular colors and has an element or 2 of grayscale you can do a double pass transfer.
1. All your non gray scale colors go on 1 layer and all your grayscale colors go on another layer in AI. Or you can make 2 files from the original, 1 is regular color the other is grayscale.
2. Disable the layer that you have grayscales on so it won't print.
3. Print the transfer (1st pass) with the settings you have in your screenshots. This transfer should be minus any grayscale images.
4. Let the transfer dry, then go back in and enable the layer that you have grayscale on and disable the regular layer.
5. Put the transfer back into the printer paying attention to the orientation so that your "overprint" is going back into the printer correctly.
6. Reprint the transfer with the same setup except in the WF1100 Epson driver set to "Black/Grayscale", see the attached screenshot "WF1100GS.jpg".
Before printing anything sure your paper fits the feed tray OK, not to tight or not too sloppy so you can get good registration.
This method is a bit "cheesy" but it forces black ink only to be used for grayscales.
Also, in AI you can force an image to grayscale by selecting the object and referring to the attached screenshot "convertgs.jpg". I'm not at my home computer to try but I think it can set just the selected object to GS, if not you could just do the conversion on the 2nd pass printing only.
BTW if you want more grayscale swatches just take a swatch file and convert those by the method in the screenshot, don't overwrite your original file though.
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Sorry but I have another stupid question... Are the gray or grayscale gradients treated the same was as the instructions you provided above?
After work today (my real job) I will try this technique and press. I will keep you posted !!
Thanks Again
Yes except that when you print the grayscale "layer" on the 2nd printing pass of the transfer you set the WF1100 to Grayscale/Black in the Epson driver like I showed in one of the photos, don't keep that on for regular color though, set it back off when you print regular color.
The concept is that you are forcing black only ink at the printer. If you use your black ink only for gray then it is an illusion to fool the eye.
Only black printing dots are placed on the paper, the gray "effect" just means the black dots are more or less dense and the amount of white space in-between the dots will determine the shade of gray.
In other words you are not allowing the printer to create a RGB gray this way, only uses the black cart.
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