T-Shirt Forums banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
so i put up some pricing quotes on my site and behold a JOB! that i dont have a complete idea how to print and need help! heres the picture

i have a four color silver press with micro registration flash cure and an epson 1400 printer.... homade exposure and 500 wat exposure.... what would my set up be ? i dont have a rip program can i still print these halftones?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,314 Posts
so i put up some pricing quotes on my site and behold a JOB! that i dont have a complete idea how to print and need help! heres the picture

i have a four color silver press with micro registration flash cure and an epson 1400 printer.... homade exposure and 500 wat exposure.... what would my set up be ? i dont have a rip program can i still print these halftones?
you're all set, you can do this.

you don't need a rip for this job, you can do the halftones in photoshop using the bitmap method. looks like the design was already half toned anyway so you're all set. from what i see even the the image has been antialiased/blurred it looks like a 2 color spot job using halftones, White ink, Red ink and an underbase if desired (underbase will help punch up the red color on a black ground, You may want to underbase the white as well if they want a bright white).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
you're all set, you can do this.

you don't need a rip for this job, you can do the halftones in photoshop using the bitmap method. looks like the design was already half toned anyway so you're all set. from what i see even the the image has been antialiased/blurred it looks like a 2 color spot job using halftones, White ink, Red ink and an underbase if desired (underbase will help punch up the red color on a black ground, You may want to underbase the white as well if they want a bright white).
Awesome thanks so much I'm going to have to look up the bit map method and familarize myself with it and give it a try so two 305 mesh screens?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,314 Posts
Awesome thanks so much I'm going to have to look up the bit map method and familarize myself with it and give it a try so two 305 mesh screens?
here's a link to a thread dealing with the bitmap halftone method.
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t88694.html


If 305 mesh is what you have then go ahead but if you have 280 ones i'd recommend those if you're printing manually, much easier of your arms ;]

using a 280 without an underbase you should get a nice deposit of ink, with the 305s i feel the colors will look too faint on a black ground (nice vintage look tho :p).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
here's a link to a thread dealing with the bitmap halftone method.
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/screen-printing/t88694.html


If 305 mesh is what you have then go ahead but if you have 280 ones i'd recommend those if you're printing manually, much easier of your arms ;]

using a 280 without an underbase you should get a nice deposit of ink, with the 305s i feel the colors will look too faint on a black ground (nice vintage look tho :p).
Don't have either I'll pluck up the 280
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
On a manual press you are going to have trouble pushing ink through that tight of a mesh. And looking at the image, the halftones are plenty course, so I'd go with a 156 (160) mesh screen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,534 Posts
You are going to have SORE ARMS trying to push in through 230 mesh. I'd use 160 or 180 with a 40 LPI halftone.
Now I'm confused that do able?
I think you should include ink in the equation. I have used waterbased inks that passes through easily on 180-200 mesh screens with slight pressure only. There are also waterbased inks that can be used with 305 mesh screens with not much effort. However, the later I still have to try but it seems to be the case. I have come to trust the supplier's assurances but it cost thrice that of regular waterbased inks. The inks I am currently using cost about 2.5x the price of more common waterbase inks.

The same is true with plastisol inks. Some brand are more difficult to print and I have talked with printers who have problems with them using mesh higher than 150(156 I thnk). But I have used plastisols that passes through 180 mesh screens with very little effort.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,919 Posts
If the art is already halftoned, which it looks like it is, then the bitmap halftone technique isn't even required. The halftone in the sample you uploaded looks pretty coarse, so you can probably get by with a 195 or a 230 mesh count quite easily.
I use QCM 158 white ink, and it'll pass through anything. If your screens are tight and your off-contact low, printing won't be a problem. I have had white inks that were so thick that pushing them through a 110 would give a man a hernia and forearms like Popeye. I don't use those inks anymore. If you're really noodle-armed, get some Union Bright Cotton White. It isn't as opaque as the QCM 158, but anyone who can't push it through a 230 needs to hike their skirt up and go back to the kitchen. :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,534 Posts
If the art is already halftoned, which it looks like it is, then the bitmap halftone technique isn't even required. The halftone in the sample you uploaded looks pretty coarse, so you can probably get by with a 195 or a 230 mesh count quite easily.
I use QCM 158 white ink, and it'll pass through anything. If your screens are tight and your off-contact low, printing won't be a problem. I have had white inks that were so thick that pushing them through a 110 would give a man a hernia and forearms like Popeye. I don't use those inks anymore. If you're really noodle-armed, get some Union Bright Cotton White. It isn't as opaque as the QCM 158, but anyone who can't push it through a 230 needs to hike their skirt up and go back to the kitchen. :p
I can relate to that. Usually, printers use 80 mesh screens for those white underbase inks and 100 mesh for top prints.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Looking at the image a little closer, there are some areas in the white part that aren't already halftoned.
Okay, I'm going to throw alot of steps at you.
This is how we would do it in our shop.

First, make sure (in photoshop) that your image is at least 300dpi and at print size. Typically around 11 inches wide for a full front on adult shirts.

Next, go to the select menu. Click on color range. Sample the black color with the little eye dropper. You can adjust the fuzziness to get as little or as much as you want. You want to err on the dark side at this point so that you don't over power the underbase. Click ok.

Then go select -> save selection. Give it the name "Underbase". Click ok. Then go to the channels tab and double click on the underbase layer. Make sure that spot color is checked. Set the solidity to about 80 %. (That will make sense in a minute). And the color is set to white. Click ok.

Now with the underbase channel still selected, click on image->adjustments->invert. That gives you a good place to start for the white base.

Now sample the red using the color range method. but when you convert to spot color, set the solidity to 25% and the color to red. Depending on how that channel looks you may have to invert that one too. You don't want the channel to look like a negative with the background all black.

Now add another channel by clicking on the new channel button. Name it shirt color. Convert it to a spot color, black, 100%. Probably need to invert it so that it is filled with black. Move it above the underbase and red channels. Turn them all on by clicking on the eye beside the names to preview the seps. If the white is too strong or light you may need to adjust the curves until it looks right.

Now the bitmap method:
Right click on the underbase channel and select duplicate channel. On the window that pops up select new as the destination. On the new file that opens up, select image->mode->bitmap.
On the window that pops up, make sure that you are still at 300dpi and select halftone screen as the method in the dropbox. Click OK.

On the next box you can play around with the settings a little bit. I would do 35 frequency at a 22.5 angle. But depending on the mesh you are going to use, you could go higher on the frequency. Click ok and you should be ready to print the underbase.

Repeat the bitmap process for the red.

We would probably print/flash/print/flash the white on a 155 - 230 mesh and the red through a 230.

Sorry about the long post. It sounds more complicated than it is. I know it isn't the only way to print this job, but it is where we would start.

Good luck.

Mike
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top