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Discussion Starter #1
I am using green white and red at one tine to create a Mexican flag effect on a la raza shirt, when I cure the shirt small air bubbles form on the surface of the white, looks like its got small pox. Is the ink to thick or what? No issue with the adjacent red or green. The one on my avatar.
 

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My thought is that you haven't mixed the white ink well enough and there is some separation with the ink.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I mixed 5% soft hand curable additive, but it still seems thick, so I'm adding a little more. I did a search at the forum but found nothing.

Did the same search on goggle and it sent me to a thread at this forum........ strange........used the same words, just pasted it from the forum search, must be a different search engine configuration.

Anyway I found a thread that stated to thick, to hot, to fast, The specs say 320 for cure but I didn't get any specs with the soft hand or specs on the curing temp. I will try the thinner mix then I will raise the flash and zero in on 290 to 310 for my cure temp and then test. I can't talk to the rep for the soft6hand till Monday.
 

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soft hand is great..i use it all the time without any issues..maybe consider re-burning the white screen. It's a shot in the dark but sometimes that is all it takes..
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The screen is a single screen with three inks all pulled across at once, looks like the aviator on my email, all shirts are slightly different since the three colors blend a little each time you do a shirt. The red and green or the area where the colors have blended don't have a issue, only the pure white area. The white is stiffer than the other two colors so I'm guessing its the heat and the thickness of the white ink.

I will resolve the ink problem so I can use it on my black T's but I will not reproduce the La Raza shirt until a few sell, I thought a new design would sell, along with the new Che but I have had the most input from the guys my age for a single color shirt with a old school vibe. Muscle Cars and several are returning for some Chevy, Dodge, Ford and Plymouth designs, guess the guys from the muscle car era like those types of shirts. I do have a pocket print on the left in the Grand Turismo font, "American Muscle" but I still offer it at a single side price but I sold a ton of these this weekend with many wanting to return for the other designs
 

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I like your idea... Doing the color blend like you are doing is school... I love the old school way of blending colors....I learned to screen print when running yellow and blue in one screen was the only way to get that blend. I've never done the 3 color blend with white in the center.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have a temp gun and the temp on the graphic never reaches anything higher than 320-330 and this is the temp rayonet suggests on their product. Adding the soft hand may very well change this, but it was added to the other colors also, 3-5% and they come out great.

I was reaching 360-380 on the center of the graphic but I raised the flash unit to manage the heat and then I move the graphic around to reach 320 in a uniform cure, this got rid of the gloss finish I was getting in the plastisol.

I am raising the soft hand in the white to 5-8% to thin it, I may need to flash a couple of times to layer the ink for true opacity but I rally need the white on black for the muscle car graphics. I have raised the flash to about 8 inches and will test for a 290-310 range to reduce the heat and cure slightly longer then its a pull test and series of wash tests.

Any body have suggestions on the wash tests? I am currently running the shirts through 3 wash three drys all on high heat to stress the graphics as much as possible. Is this enough or do I need to do more?

I also run a random test on each group of shirts cured just to be sure they all go out fully cured, don't want to sell bad product with some referral business starting to come in.
 
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