have you tried it on shirts? Will you be making the "plans" public?
"a new day for diydtg builders" r1900 build has come alive
The day has finally arrived
the r1900 build is a success.. VIDEO BELOW
thought i would post up the video of my r1900 build at its birth, hopefully this will motivate others with there build, all of the epson r1900 sensors have been overcome. as you will notice in the video the pe sensor is completely obsolete and the printer is 100% error free.. it operates with its original epson firmaware (one power source) just as it would new out of the box..
I wanted to show the video from power up sequence thru a couple prints including loading and power down, something i always wished in for a video but had never seen..
in this video im using the stock epson driver and the stock epson ink.. i did this so i could utilize the sealed epson carts while making final adjustments in order to avoid printhead clogging, a fate i have all ready experienced while the printer was in limbo 7 days with refill carts and dtginks.. the print is just the homepage image twice..
in the video the printer is not secured to the base or the base covers to the base, in order to make final adjustments and get and accurate platen measurements (the one pictured is just a cardboard template patern for testing) i also have a cover for the entire printer itself.. but you can see how smooth and fast it is without it even being secured..
i have noticed during the testing that i will need to add a tensioner to the belt..i previously did not want to include them, but definetly see a need for it now.. i have the belt to loose and have a few skip marks in the print.. i simply put a little tension on the belt by hand during the print and it resolves the issue
i only have a couple things left to complete, add belt tensioner, add a platen stop for registration, complete my plexi platen, and mount my power button and additional added (2) butons for the wiring modification (they are currently just laying inside the base under the covers next to the electronics, these will be mounted on the left side just in front of where the power and usb cords come out of the design..
in my design there are no ffc (flat cable wiring extensions needed) the only extensions that are needed are with the regular wire that can be purchased anywhere.. these include the pump supply wires (its the blue one in the video along the back of the printer coming from the board and going to the pump, i used cat5e) also the apg sensor wires, just lengthened using the pesky pe sensor wire that is no longer needed.. and the other extension is the pf motor wire.. which is the only 2 solders on the whole project (soldered new extention directly off the back of the pf motor) i have of course added some wiring modifications at the board to make the printer perform as it does, it is however very simple aswell..
again just wanted to show the video before i continue with the final adjustments and with the cover off, to show the diy'ers that this has become reality? i started my research with an 1100 epson, moved to the 1400 and then to the r1900. i went thru several trials before getting these results..including multiple relay boards and a clogged print head, a mishap while cleaning the printhead (spilling solution on the pw sensor causing the board to fry.. and finally had to acquire another r1900 for the completion.. all well worth the effort, im confident this machine will pay for itself a hundred fold for the time,effort and money invested..
the design is rock solid, dependable, and 100% error free. hope you enjoy watching it as much as i did..
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmK64WDgd_8[/media]
the r1900 build is a success.. VIDEO BELOW
thought i would post up the video of my r1900 build at its birth, hopefully this will motivate others with there build, all of the epson r1900 sensors have been overcome. as you will notice in the video the pe sensor is completely obsolete and the printer is 100% error free.. it operates with its original epson firmaware (one power source) just as it would new out of the box..
I wanted to show the video from power up sequence thru a couple prints including loading and power down, something i always wished in for a video but had never seen..
in this video im using the stock epson driver and the stock epson ink.. i did this so i could utilize the sealed epson carts while making final adjustments in order to avoid printhead clogging, a fate i have all ready experienced while the printer was in limbo 7 days with refill carts and dtginks.. the print is just the homepage image twice..
in the video the printer is not secured to the base or the base covers to the base, in order to make final adjustments and get and accurate platen measurements (the one pictured is just a cardboard template patern for testing) i also have a cover for the entire printer itself.. but you can see how smooth and fast it is without it even being secured..
i have noticed during the testing that i will need to add a tensioner to the belt..i previously did not want to include them, but definetly see a need for it now.. i have the belt to loose and have a few skip marks in the print.. i simply put a little tension on the belt by hand during the print and it resolves the issue
i only have a couple things left to complete, add belt tensioner, add a platen stop for registration, complete my plexi platen, and mount my power button and additional added (2) butons for the wiring modification (they are currently just laying inside the base under the covers next to the electronics, these will be mounted on the left side just in front of where the power and usb cords come out of the design..
in my design there are no ffc (flat cable wiring extensions needed) the only extensions that are needed are with the regular wire that can be purchased anywhere.. these include the pump supply wires (its the blue one in the video along the back of the printer coming from the board and going to the pump, i used cat5e) also the apg sensor wires, just lengthened using the pesky pe sensor wire that is no longer needed.. and the other extension is the pf motor wire.. which is the only 2 solders on the whole project (soldered new extention directly off the back of the pf motor) i have of course added some wiring modifications at the board to make the printer perform as it does, it is however very simple aswell..
again just wanted to show the video before i continue with the final adjustments and with the cover off, to show the diy'ers that this has become reality? i started my research with an 1100 epson, moved to the 1400 and then to the r1900. i went thru several trials before getting these results..including multiple relay boards and a clogged print head, a mishap while cleaning the printhead (spilling solution on the pw sensor causing the board to fry.. and finally had to acquire another r1900 for the completion.. all well worth the effort, im confident this machine will pay for itself a hundred fold for the time,effort and money invested..
the design is rock solid, dependable, and 100% error free. hope you enjoy watching it as much as i did..
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmK64WDgd_8[/media]
1 - 20 of 56 Posts
yes it works on shirts, but you have to have the dtgink in. the stock epson ink is worthless..and the rip is mandatory..
im just using the stock inks for my final adjustments due to a previous print head clog because i left it sitting to long before printing.. also to show how it prints with just the epson driver..previously there were claims you needed a rip to fire the sensors correctly that the epson driver wouldnt accomplish it.. with this set-up the any driver will do it..
i plan on putting plans together when im all done with the project
thanks..
thank you also randy, for all the info you provided me..
anyone who provided info to me during the process will be getting the build plans first once i get it it completecouldn't have done this build successfully without all the input..
once i get the belt tensioners fabricated, ill post up another video with it knocking down some shirts...
Congratulations! excellent work Jeff ... I am very happy. I'll take your model as a reference ... and try to build ...
thanks a million...I will get some plans to ya..once i get the tensioners on and get it all bolted down..Congratulations! excellent work Jeff ... I am very happy. I'll take your model as a reference ... and try to build ...
and find the time to do a detailed parts and description list with diagrams..
i went to the 1900 due to it being rip supported, which is almost mandatory for the build..you can adjust the ink channel drop size etc..
after researching it a bit i also discovered several commercial manufacturers use the 1900 and previously the 1800 (same printer except the print head basically)
not the cheapest printer and not the most expensive either, Im sure it will be around for a long time to come or a version of it..
thanks, simon..
looking forward to the end
it tested my patience quite a few times.. glad i didn't give up on her now.. but it was close a few times..lol
I'm not going to use a manual return for the platen, im just going to set it at its registration mark (beginning of print).. and yes it will print the double pass with no issue.. you just have to line your platen to a registration mark on the base..
I,m using the cover open sensor to stall the print between layers or between passes, you just place the switch at the proper location at end of print.. this will stall the next print untill you release the switch..just push your platen back to its registration mark for its second pass release the switch, and presto it will resume printing the second or color layer over the white..
i have tested this using just double color prints and registration and its functions are spot on...
additionally no extra electronics or firmware needed, just some wiring extensions and rerouting at the board
hope it helps..
jeff
Tell me about it....thanks, simon..
looking forward to the end
I had to abandon the project for three weeks...i was pretty sure that everything was clogged as i all the sudden went to hospital 2 days after i installed the dtg inks. I was really tired and disappointed before i install the printer again for testing. I dont know if i am lucky or the Resolute inks are so good in the clogging issue but a perfect nozzle check boost me up. I am close to the end too
My pocket is feels itchy as the need to buy a rip comes closer every day
I have a thought about these 50 boards you produced...i wonder if we can use them as job controllers for multipass high volume production
I'm sure it will when I get that far. You guys have just given me the confidence to rip appart a brand new printer to try this out. It's just a C120 but I figure I had better start with something a little cheaper than the 1900 for my first try. I will keep following your work while I try my first attempt to do this with a cheap and hopefully simple printer. Actualy, its not so simple to me but if I can gain some understanding with this one, I might have a chance with a 1900. Again, thank you for your work in this endeavor and if theres anything I can do to lend a hand(not likely since I don't even have a formal high school education) just shoot me an email.I'm not going to use a manual return for the platen, im just going to set it at its registration mark (beginning of print).. and yes it will print the double pass with no issue.. you just have to line your platen to a registration mark on the base..
I,m using the cover open sensor to stall the print between layers or between passes, you just place the switch at the proper location at end of print.. this will stall the next print untill you release the switch..just push your platen back to its registration mark for its second pass release the switch, and presto it will resume printing the second or color layer over the white..
i have tested this using just double color prints and registration and its functions are spot on...
additionally no extra electronics or firmware needed, just some wiring extensions and rerouting at the board
hope it helps..
jeff
1 - 20 of 56 Posts
