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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
These was a design sent to me in a flattened jpeg that I had to separate in Photoshop. I also had to take the type and make a left chest by pulling pieces off the back to build it for an approval.

The back printed 9 colors and turned out great the first try. I'm not always this lucky, but you gotta love it when it comes together without a hitch!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good job. Did you use same angles or rosette angles?
Thanks, Denny. . . I used 45º angles in our shop. If we used roller frames, I would probably use rosetta. I prefer the look, but we have to any issues on the wood frames. Depending on detail and size of the design we use 65-85 line screen. This one was a 65 line screen.
 

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These was a design sent to me in a flattened jpeg that I had to separate in Photoshop. I also had to take the type and make a left chest by pulling pieces off the back to build it for an approval.

The back printed 9 colors and turned out great the first try. I'm not always this lucky, but you gotta love it when it comes together without a hitch!
Interesting separation I would love to see the original you started with.

The image you post as the seps is that in PS channels?
What tools did you use for the separation process?

Hope I am not imposing here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Interesting separation I would love to see the original you started with.

The image you post as the seps is that in PS channels?
What tools did you use for the separation process?

Hope I am not imposing here.
I don't mind at all. The separation image you see is a Photoshop DCS composite linked in Illustrator with the legend and center registration marks. From here I can stretch, shrink, duplicate, place in a clipping mask or add some vector graphics to the image. If I have to fix one of the colors while on the press, I will make the change in Photoshop, then open Illustrator and it will update the changes. From there I can output the color that has been replaced.

I made the DCS by creating spot color channels from a series of color ranges between CMYK and RGB modes. Between that, leveling, hue/saturation and a few other methods I created a base white, 2 reds, yellow, cyan, blue, 2 blacks and a highlight white.

I duplicated the file. Deleted all the original channels and the working channels until I just had the 9 spot colors. Then I saved it as a DCS 2.0 file. This makes the spot colors usable in a vector program like Illustrator.

I will post the original for you when I get back home tonight!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey Tom,

I was just watching your video on another tread. You sparked my interest. I'll resume at a later time. I'm about to turn in for my 4 hour rest! I will go back and finish it. Thanks for posting it.

That design took me an hour and a half before I was outputting to film. Sometimes it's faster, sometimes slower, depending on the condition and how the art is sent.

Good night!
 

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Hey Tom,

I was just watching your video on another tread. You sparked my interest. I'll resume at a later time. I'm about to turn in for my 4 hour rest! I will go back and finish it. Thanks for posting it.

That design took me an hour and a half before I was outputting to film. Sometimes it's faster, sometimes slower, depending on the condition and how the art is sent.

Good night!
Just curious but how did you separate the black? With this separation it really is almost identical to how I would do and HSL/HSB separation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What was the print order? which color first
If you look on the first image, this is the actual production file. The legend has the colors in order, the base white being first. I split the red and put the mixing red first and the solid red near the end. This is not always how they set it's up on the press, but the mixing red was the first color printed after the base.
 

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If you look on the first image, this is the actual production file. The legend has the colors in order, the base white being first. I split the red and put the mixing red first and the solid red near the end. This is not always how they set it's up on the press, but the mixing red was the first color printed after the base.
You know that is interesting I was looking at the red, your print order and doing some analysis. A couple things I noticed...



Looking at the original to the channel separation to the print. In my analysis I was able identify that your red to yellow blends were reasonably accurate. Yet the red in the suns reflections in the water in the print was over powering the blend and also the yellow in the fish were more of gold color than a yellow color.

I believe this is because the red stepped on the yellow and blew out the blends. Typically a result of fallowing the same dot same angle halftone printing recommended by so many people in the Industry, Including the RIP manufactures and distributors.

Then what happens is the printers think.. Well its dot gain lets adjust the pressure. And that can elevate some of the issue, but then the print may get compromised in some other area of the blending or in vibrancy.

These are one of the areas we have done allot of looking into as we have seen the struggles so many have on press.

If you look at the dot on dot hue image which is a simulation of the red on top of the yellow hue blend in halftones you can see the red then over powers the blend. Thus in the original and separation the red and yellow blend in the suns refection towards the front of the boat. But in the print the reflection as well as the yellow in the fins of the fish have been compromised.

Not sure how you ripped the halftones. I could be wrong because we are dealing with a digital photo of the final print which might not represent the color very accurately. I was just curious about my perceived issues with the red and yellow in the print so I made some analysis.

Hope I am not intruding here. Just some friendly analysis. And I cannot tell how much I appreciate you posting these images. Most pro separators freak out when you ask for before and after.
 

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Thank you Tom. I applaud your meticulous observance of details, and I appreciate your time and input into looking over the design with a fine-tooth comb! Impressive.

Someday, I would like to share my world with you, which would be a long story!

Check your mail. . .
Mitch thanks for the email. I will review and get back to you.

Honestly I did not use a fine tooth comb I just looked at your PS channels image and the print image. Then I simply split them into Hue/Saturation/Brightness a 30 second manual process. Once that was completed every variance between the two images jumped out. All I lacked was the original to verify my analysis.

As I said this is a great channels separation. Some how working in the inaccurate color rendering environment of PhotoShops digital color channel mathematics, you were able to at least get a relatively accurate resemblance of the original art. Which is in my opinion impressive.

So far I have just touched on your printing order and halftones which we can go even deeper on that topic. I have not even touched on what those channels did to your color. Which is why I asked about the black.

I think next we can get into what the channels did to your saturation because that is where the most damage was done. Next to the ramps in the blends and the black.

Once again thanks for posting all of this we can use it as a point of understanding for the Industry. This is not a critique of you by any means. But screen printers at every level need to be aware of these issues so they can separate well, print well and prosper. Which is my world.
 
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