[chixwithtrix]

Bought a Ryonet 6 color, 2 station Silver press a few months ago to add to my current vinyl graphics business. So far I am pretty irritated at the spotty results I get. I've managed to produce quality plastisol and discharge jobs, but at the expense of my well being and income since I'm constantly fighting and wasting time.

Current issues I have:
-The wooden and aluminum screens I've bought from Ryonet are warped. Some are worse than others. I don't have micros, when I tighten the screens in the clamps after registering to the image - the screen moves as the clamps tighten. It makes registration a total bear because I have to guess where the screen will be when it is tight. Anyone get around the screen warping?

- Once tight in the clamps the registration changes from when I set it to when I raise and lower the screen again. I called Ryonet and they were helpful, but weren't able to solve the issue. It also seems to be random. One pass on a multiple color job will be fine and the next will have one of the colors out of registration. Really frustrating.

I'm thinking about trying out the side clamps for the silver press, has anyone had any experience with them? Would I just be masking another problem by buying these?

 

[ScreenFoo]

With registration moving--you'll want to check the gate, the part that the arm nests into when you drop a screen. There are bolts on the sides, and if they are adjusted too far out, you'll be able to move the screen left and right while it's down. If you can, they need to be tightened--only slightly. If they bind, they'll wear the head prematurely.

As far as screens moving when you clamp them, our old Hopkins is like this, but if you alternate back and forth between the clamps, it shouldn't move--as much.

You can also loosen the clamps a bit and tap them with a mallet to get them to line up--but it's hard on the press.

As for warped screens, that's too bad. If they aren't going to replace them or make it right, you may want to shop around.

 

[BnC Custom Ink]

I also got the silver without micros, and I feel your pain. The best option if you can afford it is to get the micro upgrades($100 per head) they make it so you don't ever touch the screen clamps to register. I added my own micros, but I still have to use screen clamps to adjust. I found pre-registering helps a ton here.

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[Hegemone]

Wood screens warp that's why they are the least expensive of the statics and why they get tossed into kits every where. I am yet to run into a warped aluminum frame that wasn't my fault or damaged in shipping. But I guess it's possible due to welding heat but I always check for square right out of the shipping box and file claims the se day I receive them. If I miss a warped one and use it that's my fault.

Have you checked you technique and use of off contact? Too much and the screen moves off as you press it to the shirt. Your squeegee pressure can also warp the screen as it looses tension from being used (that's why people upgrade to retentionable frames) and too much pressure can tug and pull the fabric out of place.

Also are you padding the colors and overlapping them a point or two to hide any minute reg. issues? If you aren't familiar with this get with a graphic designer who is familiar with preparing multicolor jobs from screen printing. There are lots of tips on how to do this in ways that cost fewer sanity points.

My apologies if any of this is over simplified.

My two cents. Toss them in a well and make a wish.

 

[chixwithtrix]

With registration moving--you'll want to check the gate, the part that the arm nests into when you drop a screen. There are bolts on the sides, and if they are adjusted too far out, you'll be able to move the screen left and right while it's down. If you can, they need to be tightened--only slightly. If they bind, they'll wear the head prematurely.

As for warped screens, that's too bad. If they aren't going to replace them or make it right, you may want to shop around.

I called Ryonet and we walked through everything to make sure it was all tight. Even took a dial caliper to see if the gate bolts were even and they were.

I haven't had a chance to talk to them about the warped screens since I've been doing jobs that need them non-stop. Hopefully can get something worked out with those.

 

[chixwithtrix]

Wood screens warp that's why they are the least expensive of the statics and why they get tossed into kits every where. I am yet to run into a warped aluminum frame that wasn't my fault or damaged in shipping. But I guess it's possible due to welding heat but I always check for square right out of the shipping box and file claims the se day I receive them. If I miss a warped one and use it that's my fault.

Have you checked you technique and use of off contact? Too much and the screen moves off as you press it to the shirt. Your squeegee pressure can also warp the screen as it looses tension from being used (that's why people upgrade to retentionable frames) and too much pressure can tug and pull the fabric out of place.

Also are you padding the colors and overlapping them a point or two to hide any minute reg. issues? If you aren't familiar with this get with a graphic designer who is familiar with preparing multicolor jobs from screen printing. There are lots of tips on how to do this in ways that cost fewer sanity points.

My apologies if any of this is over simplified.

My two cents. Toss them in a well and make a wish.

The aluminum warped screens came that way out of the box, I even took video of them rocking back and forth on a flat surface. Like I said above though, I ordered them and needed them for a job so no chance at returning before use. Today is the first day haven't had a butt-load of things to do so I'm starting to take care of the issues I've had to bully though the last few months. We'll see what Ryonet has to say.

Yes, I pad/choke colors for multi-color designs. I've had the most trouble on designs that are underbased where the underbase needs to be very accurate. The registration issues are major enough that these techniques don't work.

 

[chixwithtrix]

I also got the silver without micros, and I feel your pain. The best option if you can afford it is to get the micro upgrades($100 per head) they make it so you don't ever touch the screen clamps to register. I added my own micros, but I still have to use screen clamps to adjust. I found pre-registering helps a ton here.

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I do pre-register on the pallet with an image. I've been on the fence about the micros and the side clamps. Heard a lot of trouble with the micros still having play, and haven't heard much opinions about the Ryonet side clamps. A lot of investment in a job I pretty much hate so far. I'm at the crossroads where I need to decide to invest $1k more to see if my life will get immensely better, or call a quits because as it is I'm just pissed off all the time and losing money to equipment that doesn't work well.

 

[ScreenFoo]

Wood screens warp that's why they are the least expensive of the statics and why they get tossed into kits every where. I am yet to run into a warped aluminum frame that wasn't my fault or damaged in shipping. But I guess it's possible due to welding heat but I always check for square right out of the shipping box and file claims the se day I receive them. If I miss a warped one and use it that's my fault.

Good point--It's always a good idea to check out supplies right when you get them, and get everything resolved right away. True, wood screens are less expensive, but they should not be warped when brand new if properly constructed and stretched. I run some that are decades old and still less than a thirty-second of an inch off after being cycled hundreds if not a thousand times.

 

[chixwithtrix]

The wood screens I'm less worried about as they are the ones that came with the press and were also warped out of the box. I bought aluminum screens thinking they're be less warped. Not really...some don't have much warpage, but wow, some of them are so warped its ridiculous.

 

[D3L0C4T3D]

Everything I read so far is on point but one thing to look at is when tightening down screen you have to turn every knob a little at a time like left knob right knob, left knob right knob. On my press I have 4 knobs, i have to go between all 4 knobs like a D J.

Second thing is when you are pulling ink watch your stroke, you shouldn't pull some then push others, with that different stoke the screen will flex different laying ink slightly different. This is only a issue when registration is tight. Also if your off contact is to hight the screen hass a longer distance to travel to the shirt making it flex more leaving more room for error. My off contsct is no more than the thickness on a penny. This gives me enough room for the screen to snap back from the ink after a stroke but not enough for the screen to have to flex to far.

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[inkdrips]

If its that much of a hassle, sell the silver press take that extra grand you were going to spend and get a used press with better features. I see good quality presses for sale on the forums all the time.I dont know much about the silver press, But if its that much of a pain move on. I find on my press that if i crank down too much on the screen with the clamps they shift a bit. But then I noticed i really diddnt need to crank them too tight to keep the screen from moving. I have also heard that a bit of fabric tape on the screen keeps it from shifting too much but ive never tried it.

 

[chixwithtrix]

Thanks for the replies so far. Was hoping for a magic bullet but looks like I'm still in the dark.

you have to turn every knob a little at a time like left knob right knob, left knob right knob. On my press I have 4 knobs, i have to go between all 4 knobs like a D J.

Second thing is when you are pulling ink watch your stroke, you shouldn't pull some then push others, with that different stoke the screen will flex different laying ink slightly different. This is only a issue when registration is tight. Also if your off contact is to hight the screen hass a longer distance to travel to the shirt making it flex more leaving more room for error. My off contsct is no more than the thickness on a penny. This gives me enough room for the screen to snap back from the ink after a stroke but not enough for the screen to have to flex to far.

I do tighten the two knobs one then the other, then back, etc. My off contact is the thickness of a quarter. I pull for a flood stroke, push for the lay stroke for plastisol.

If its that much of a hassle, sell the silver press take that extra grand you were going to spend and get a used press with better features. I see good quality presses for sale on the forums all the time.I dont know much about the silver press, But if its that much of a pain move on. I find on my press that if i crank down too much on the screen with the clamps they shift a bit. But then I noticed i really diddnt need to crank them too tight to keep the screen from moving. I have also heard that a bit of fabric tape on the screen keeps it from shifting too much but ive never tried it.

That's the thing...it's not supposed to be this much of a pain. Many people are happy with their silver presses. That's why I posted to see if someone out there was having my problems and had a solution other than selling the press. Regardless of there being quality presses out there, I'd still lose money switching to one. If I can make this press work then I will. I'm thinking of trying the skateboard tape on the clamps and seeing how that works if nobody has any other suggestions.

 

[Hegemone]

Try to get your registration during exposure as tight as possible. Then try shimming behind the screen and putting gentle pressure against the shims while tightening the screen clamps. If there is no space for screen to move into then it won't move. Also be conscious of banging the screen up and down and when lowering it between the registration pins. Is the temperature in your shop changing drastically quickly? Go threw and make sure the extra bolts on the screen clamps are all tight. Also don't over tighten the screen clamps, it is possible to warp the frames by brute force.

 

[inkdrips]

Like grip tape? I don't think that's going to help. I was referring to more of a hockey tape or something of that nature. You could also use a wood strip. Wood doesn't slide on the metal clamps like the aluminum does. A bit of a pain, by whatever works right? I don't know where you are but victory factory makes AWESOME frames. good prices too.

 

[chixwithtrix]

I line up the registration before exposing with an paper image and each color's transparency lined up with the paper image. I am gentle with the spinning, lowering, and raising of the screens through the gate. Temps are pretty stable in the shop. Have not tried shimming behind the screens yet. Maybe use coins or something?

 

[chixwithtrix]

Like grip tape? I don't think that's going to help. I was referring to more of a hockey tape or something of that nature. You could also use a wood strip. Wood doesn't slide on the metal clamps like the aluminum does. A bit of a pain, by whatever works right? I don't know where you are but victory factory makes AWESOME frames. good prices too.

In one of my searches I saw someone said they tried grip tape. I don't know what hockey tape is, but I'll check it out too.

 

[beanie357]

I like Ryonet. No problems with them.

Silver press is iffy for reg.IMHO only. Works, but what are you using it for? A good used vastex or M&R, or some of the others will remove your ag instantly. Voila'. Problem solved.

Can't make a silk purse-blah blah-blah.

We had one we used for a mobile job. Same image, 4 color choices. Worked like a charm for that.

BTW-choke your underbase white or you will drive urself to looney bin. I believe the term for overlaying some colors might be "trapping", but i'm usually wrong on stuff.

 

[chixwithtrix]

So far Ryonet has been good on the phone, and their price point is decent, although the warped screens are a pisser. Not bashing them, just having issues with some of their products.

I went with the Silver press after reading reviews, the price, and the ease of availability. However mine is not performing the way other people's stellar reviews were saying. It's not that I want the best equipment for the lowest price, "you get what you pay for", etc, etc. Only so much I can prepare when reading online reviews and when a majority are positive it seemed like a good idea. If everyone said you can't do registration then I wouldn't have gotten it. However some people love their Silver presses. That's why I'm not sure what gives. Maybe the warped screens are my biggest culprit.

I do choke the underbase as I said in a previous post.

 

[ScreenFoo]

There is a huge variety in work--many people do nothing but one colors, or multicolors with little or no consequence if mis-registered. I'm with Shep and Al on this--if you're having big problems doing the kind of work with this press, and the only solution offered is putting more money into it, it's probably time to move on and up. I would get non-warped screens before passing judgement on the press, however. I've printed a lot on similar styles of presses, and with warped screens, you can get into a mess you can't really get out of easily. If you use a vacuum exposure system, or a large amount of weight, you'll distort the mesh when you burn, and when it springs back, there's not a whole lot you can do to compensate on press. You could try to align the warped screens--i.e. if the same corner is warped up the same amount, and you burn them the same way, they will be closer to proper registration.

 

[chixwithtrix]

Just wanted to put a good word out for Ryonet's customer service.

I made a video showing the warping of my aluminum screens and sent them an email earlier today. About 30 minutes later I had a reply saying thanks for the informative video and that they will be sending out replacements for my 8 warped screens. I obviously have yet to receive the new ones, but the fast reply and immediate statement of replacement was quite nice.

Once the new screens come in I will attempt using a grippy tape on the screen clamp and see if that helps the registration moving issues during printing. If that doesn't solve it I'll work with shimming the back behind the screen. In my research I've seen a few DIY fixes for the Ryonet Micro system that I might try out if nothing else works. Doing this all with no business loans means I don't have a lot of room to make drastic changes.

Thanks for the suggestions so far, keep 'em coming if you have any more ideas!