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need low bleed white

 
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Old July 10th, 2008 Jul 10, 2008 3:15:49 PM -   #1 (permalink)
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Default need low bleed white

I am from Philly and have my own biz. for 3 years now-i'v gotten better w/ white but i need a low or NO bleed white thats easy to use
 
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Old July 10th, 2008 Jul 10, 2008 7:21:39 PM -   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

Well, there's no such thing as a "No bleed" white. Should some company make this claim, I'd avoid them all together.

I use maxopake low bleed. It bleeds little, but its very, very thick. Did I mention it was thick? Like pushing around marshmallow fluff.

Red shirts will always have a touch of the pinkies though.
 
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Old July 10th, 2008 Jul 10, 2008 7:38:25 PM -   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

Quote:
Originally Posted by dann
Well, there's no such thing as a "No bleed" white. Should some company make this claim, I'd avoid them all together.

I use maxopake low bleed. It bleeds little, but its very, very thick. Did I mention it was thick? Like pushing around marshmallow fluff.

Red shirts will always have a touch of the pinkies though.
do you know about triangle whgite ink its seems popular here
 
 
Old July 10th, 2008 Jul 10, 2008 8:01:43 PM -   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

We picked up some "no bleed white" made specifically for 100% polyester (no sweat type material). It helps prevent bleeding on darker colors, like burgandy and red shades of shirts. We use it mostly for baseball jerseys....sports wear. I don't think too many customers want a 100% poly shirt or t.

It works well.


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Old July 10th, 2008 Jul 10, 2008 8:25:24 PM -   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

I use triangle white all the time, I love it. But the standard white bleeds like crazy on reds and blacks, like after 2 washings. I can't speak for their low-bleed whites though. Maxopake is what I started with on low-bleed, and I hate change haha.
 
Old July 10th, 2008 Jul 10, 2008 9:37:26 PM -   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

Quote:
Originally Posted by dann
I use triangle white all the time, I love it. But the standard white bleeds like crazy on reds and blacks, like after 2 washings. I can't speak for their low-bleed whites though. Maxopake is what I started with on low-bleed, and I hate change haha.
...no ink should bleed after your done curing...especially after washing. You are not curing the ink properly.

Anyway, Union also makes a lo-bleed white called Diamond White - Lo Bleed, I believe. But we only use lo bleed for white underbase on 100% polyester jerseys, etc.
 
Old July 11th, 2008 Jul 11, 2008 7:35:03 AM -   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

or you could just hit the white, flash cure quick and hit the white again. that creates plenty of coverage.
 
Old July 11th, 2008 Jul 11, 2008 7:48:37 AM -   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddyRocky
...no ink should bleed after your done curing...especially after washing. You are not curing the ink properly.

Anyway, Union also makes a lo-bleed white called Diamond White - Lo Bleed, I believe. But we only use lo bleed for white underbase on 100% polyester jerseys, etc.
That's odd. If anything, I would say I over cure my inks. I'm terrified of washouts so I cure my inks longer than I've ever heard anyone doing. But maybe that's my problem
 
Old July 11th, 2008 Jul 11, 2008 8:21:31 AM -   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

I like Union Diamond White. It's not so thick/stiff as the others.

For your curing, you just need to make sure you're curing for at least 40 seconds and that the ink has reached at least 320 degrees after 40 seconds. If you go much over 350 the cotton in the shirt will start to scorch. Get yourself an infra-red temperature gun if you don't have one - it's almost impossible to know for certain that you're curing correctly without one, very well worth the $70 or so. Once the ink has reached 320 after 40 seconds there's really no reason to go any longer. If it's getting over 320 in less than 40 seconds you need to adjust your setup or it won't be cured all the way through.
 
Old July 11th, 2008 Jul 11, 2008 9:14:07 AM -   #10 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

The dye in poly shirts can still sublimate thru CURED ink and you may not notice it right away-You need a good poly white-especially on red!!! even 50/50's can bleed and sublimate. Cotton generally you wont have a problem with-Poly is notorious for these issues-Really, make sure you dont let your shirt get too hot, The dye that is used to dye poly shirts is heat set and guess what, the temp is the same as the one for curing plastisol.
 
Old July 11th, 2008 Jul 11, 2008 10:02:17 AM -   #11 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

Plastisol does not have to be cured for 40 seconds, or 30, or 20, or 10 seconds. If it can reach up to 320 F or the manufacturers curing temperature, in even 1 second, it's CURED.

Remember, it's not the length of time, it's the temperature.
 
Old July 11th, 2008 Jul 11, 2008 10:03:32 AM -   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

Quote:
Originally Posted by dann
That's odd. If anything, I would say I over cure my inks. I'm terrified of washouts so I cure my inks longer than I've ever heard anyone doing. But maybe that's my problem
How do you know you're over curing? And yes, that could be your problem...don't let poly garments get too hot, especially when flashing.
 
Old July 11th, 2008 Jul 11, 2008 10:37:47 AM -   #13 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddyRocky
Plastisol does not have to be cured for 40 seconds, or 30, or 20, or 10 seconds. If it can reach up to 320 F or the manufacturers curing temperature, in even 1 second, it's CURED.

Remember, it's not the length of time, it's the temperature.
The ink MUST reach 320 degrees through its ENTIRE THICKNESS, not just on the surface, and that takes TIME. If you flash it under a 1,000 degree element for 5 seconds, it might reach 320 on the surface, but it will not be cured. After the garment is washed the graphic will crack and eventually detach from the garment.

Last edited by Sheepsalt; July 11th, 2008 at 10:44 AM..
 
Old July 11th, 2008 Jul 11, 2008 10:40:51 AM -   #14 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddyRocky
Plastisol does not have to be cured for 40 seconds, or 30, or 20, or 10 seconds. If it can reach up to 320 F or the manufacturers curing temperature, in even 1 second, it's CURED.

Remember, it's not the length of time, it's the temperature.
I dont really agree with that...It can be cured on top but how do you know if it is cured all the way through, especially on underbases on dark shirts-when you have layers of ink I personally think a bit of time is good...Why do you think that some people have issues with metalic inks coming off??? They reflect heat and just because it says 320 with the little heat gun...They could not be cured all the way through.

Last edited by Solmu; July 14th, 2008 at 05:11 AM.. Reason: removed linked image from external site
 
Old July 11th, 2008 Jul 11, 2008 12:09:02 PM -   #15 (permalink)
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Default Re: need low bleed white

There is no golden rule, nor did I say only the surface needing to be 320 degrees. And 320 degrees for curing plastisol is a great rule of thumb, BUT NOT ALL PLASTISOL CURES AT 320 F. Always read the manufacturers suggestions, some may need only 320, some may require 340, etc.

Never knew so many people had issues with metallics coming off?!? We never had issues with that at all.

Curing for 1 second is in theory, not reality. I just mentioned that since "curing for at least 40" isn't very accurate. Our shirts spend about 10 seconds in our IR dryer and ends up at 325 degrees F.
 






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