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Discuss the different types of equipment needed for screen printing. Topics include manual screen printing presses, automatic presses, dryers, folding machines, starter kits and high end machines.



Printer and rip software

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Old April 8th, 2015 Apr 8, 2015 2:50:13 PM -   #1 (permalink)
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Default Printer and rip software

I'm learning about rip software and wanted to know what is a good printer And rip software combo for screen printing. Why do I need a rip software. Someone please shed some light for me. Thank you. Also I'm leaning towards an Epson artisan but what rip would I need?

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Old April 8th, 2015 Apr 8, 2015 2:59:56 PM -   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Printer and rip software

I use a kornit breeze with their quickP rip software.
 
Old April 8th, 2015 Apr 8, 2015 3:19:02 PM -   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Printer and rip software

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nav Printman
I use a kornit breeze with their quickP rip software.
This is posted in the screen printing equipment section, not DTG. The OP is looking for film printer option for screen printing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by smb149
I'm learning about rip software and wanted to know what is a good printer And rip software combo for screen printing. Why do I need a rip software. Someone please shed some light for me. Thank you. Also I'm leaning towards an Epson artisan but what rip would I need?

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Any epson will work and many other brands but rips are avaliable for epson and a few canon printers. You don't need a RIP. All a rip does is convert grayscale to halftones that can be done in a graphics program. They also will have some density options. If your using the proper ink with UV blockers you don't need to worry about how dark the film is. I own filmmaker DTP rip and don't use it. I do own simple Seps smart Rip which does vector seperations and also a rip, it has setting no other rips have, interlocking, it also has a calibration test that is easy for you to calibrate your dot gain all other rips require a transmission densoimeter which is $1500.

For some it just easier to buy the $500 rip and use as is. But if you intend to do simulated, CMYK or even single color halftones with accuracy then further consideration is needed
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Old April 8th, 2015 Apr 8, 2015 4:38:20 PM -   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Printer and rip software

sben what kind/model of printer do you use for screenprinting?? I was looking at the artisan 1430 or the workforce wf-7110...which do you suggest?

Last edited by smb149; April 8th, 2015 at 04:40 PM.. Reason: forgot to add in
 
Old April 8th, 2015 Apr 8, 2015 5:05:09 PM -   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: Printer and rip software

My primary printer is the Artisan 1430. I had a 1400 for almost 8 years till it died. the 1430 same printer with Wi-Fi and a slightly altered print engine. The 7110 I believe is a replacement for the 1100 which I had and used for 3 years for other purposes(heat transfers) and is a also a good printer but IMO the 1430 is a better option for high end halftone printing. also produces smoother edges but lest face it when printing on textiles there are limitations to what shows and what is lost
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Old April 8th, 2015 Apr 8, 2015 5:15:31 PM -   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: Printer and rip software

Appreciate it. I was confused on which to get but now I will be going with the 1430 artisan.
 
Old April 8th, 2015 Apr 8, 2015 9:14:37 PM -   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: Printer and rip software

Yes .... 1430 all the way ..... you will love it
 
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Old April 12th, 2015 Apr 12, 2015 1:02:48 AM -   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: Printer and rip software

Quote:
Originally Posted by smb149
sben what kind/model of printer do you use for screenprinting?? I was looking at the artisan 1430 or the workforce wf-7110...which do you suggest?
I use the Epson Artisan 1430 with standard inks but I will save a ton of money by getting a simple CIS like this REF-T079-6-UT14-KIT - 60 CARTRIDGE EQUIVALENT UT14 INKSUPPLY REFILL KIT - KIT CONTAINS 120ml (4oz) UT14 B&W INK SET, REFILL ACCESSORIES AND EMPTY CARTRIDGES (V6.3 Chip for 1400/1430) - Inksupply.com

Using waterproof inkjet film and just processing halftones through Corel or Photoshop either manually or with automation software but not different RIP Software, and I just have to do a few settings to make sure I output rich-black or 100% CMYK full channels to get the most UV blockage out of the inks. I will need to make sure before buying bulk ink with the CIS that it is the same UV blocking as the Epson default.

I bet you could even make all the bottles pull black ink but that will affect how it could still be used for photos and color documents if you switched back to color inks I don't know if the print-heads would be a bit messed up from printing black... but if you're only going to use it for film then maybe it is going to block more.

I have done tests like printing yellow-only from it and it does the same as all-black perhaps just a little bit more UV light is getting through during exposure, but the problem was in the gradient from the solid-point down into halftones the 100% CMYK (what i tested on same film) or I'm sure an all-black method does much better with the halftones and details.

I've worked places where I output things to Xante screenwriters, film output printers like larger Epson 4880, DTS systems and even one of the best film methods the thermal OYO techstyler which does crisp 1200 dpi and very dense, quick-output films, but that is like 12k, and the Epson Artisan is $300 - I got it for $200 from a guy on craigslist in my local area, like new really good deal. I use it daily for everything it is just so much better at the place I work now to use this instead of a sub-par HP Laserjet 5000 on vellum we were using before when I started here, and using toner-aide (with cancer-causing chemicals in it) to make films darker and marking them up with sharpies and film-markers, saving tons of time and money as well not buying toner-aide and toner-cartridges and vellum... sure the waterproof film can cost a bit but its only $1 per sheet for like the 13 x 18, and it equates to a lot less total than the other method there, especially with time saved not having to toner-aide spray and mark-up the films... just bring them right to my light-table registration system with templates so the reg-marks line up and tape it then lay the screen down into a little positioning rig taped to the glass, vacuum and expose.... sometimes should wait a little bit so the ink doesn't stick to the emulsion that can be hard to wash off for a bit and also ruin the film for re-use. But usually I don't have to output films to screens in a rush so there can be some drying time for the films -- still it doesn't take as long as toner-aide drying and then using markers on the vellums etc.

I can print out 1200 dpi halftones and details and it really holds great, it can go up higher into the 1400 ranges, but also it will print index dots at 100, 200, 300, whatever you send it really will print great but it does require a little bit of setting up and saving some profiles for the printer output to keep the printer from altering your color settings for the darker rich-black films. This printer does awesome full-color work as well on photo glossy paper, trasparencies, lots of media types, as well as printing on cd's /dvds (printable ones). As you can I really love this printer for both my art/photos and test prints and all film output.

I really will be getting around to new videos soon to help show it in action on regular spot-color and high-end halftone films, color-calibration for photo and art output, halftone-comp proofs, etc. Another great purchase to have along-side this is the Epson Perfection v370 or 500/600 series scanners so you can do calibration/linearization and other compensation/quality-checking of the Artisan's output and your screens and prints for total-production color-calibration. Knowing what is happening with your simulations to your real-world variables takes just a little bit of a feedback looping data management system and you're on track to make rather scientific measurements and prints - input/output with a little calibration goes a long way. Knowing you have good consistent dark films that output clean is the first step to getting all the other parts factored out such as emulsion choice and exposure table etc.

Sean / Sben is an expert on this stuff and really amazed me at what he knows and can do with film and exposure tables and exposing screens as well as one of the best screenprinters i've been inspired by and look up to as a mentor in my journey becoming a printer just 6 months ago from over a decade in graphic design and art/pre-press/separations in screenprint and other type of print shops. Screenprinting is my passion obviously, and at least if not going larger than 13 x 18 then currently I see no issue with the Epson Artisan 1430 for any quality-level you want to achieve in screenprinting films.

Hope this helps give you another user-feedback informed opinion.
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This is a discussion about Printer and rip software that was posted in the Screen Printing Equipment section of the forums.

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