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Discuss the different plastisol screen printing inks and curing methods on the market. Share tips on getting the best results with the different ink manufacturers.



How would you print this?

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Old March 13th, 2019 Mar 13, 2019 7:58:48 AM -   #1 (permalink)
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Default How would you print this?

I am trying to think outside the box on this one. Normally I would print the white first while spreading the rabbit head a little and including the under base for the red, then print red, then black, done. Someone else had told me they would print the white including the under base for red and under base even the black, then print red, then black, done. What do you guys think?
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Old March 13th, 2019 Mar 13, 2019 3:00:50 PM -   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: How would you print this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by INKJESS
I am trying to think outside the box on this one. Normally I would print the white first while spreading the rabbit head a little and including the under base for the red, then print red, then black, done. Someone else had told me they would print the white including the under base for red and under base even the black, then print red, then black, done. What do you guys think?
Technically every ink color should be printed on a white base if the garment is colored. This will allow true color opacity, also depending the inks you are using. In most cases maxopaque can be printed as a print flash print if avoiding underbase. The rule applies lets say to a one color, some say why do two screens when you can get away with one using pfp method. It works not denying it, however proper procedure would be underbase then color on top. If you compare a pfp and a color print qith underbase you will see the different in color tone; however these rules are for the technical passionate serious printer, in which most don't care for it and just want to make the sale and take the money so all that gets thrown out the window.

This one works different and can be printed.different ways.
If all you have is 110 mesh screens, it should be white base the colors then white print. This is so that your base isnt very thick.

Some will say print all white with base for all then one stroke color, which will work to get the job done.

Last, you can print white in higher mesh count all at once to get a thin nice bright white opacity then color print one stroke each and be done with it. (156-200 mesh)

Almost forgot pfp for every color is an option as well if you want to exercise your upper body

These rules apply more for the manual printer.
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Old March 13th, 2019 Mar 13, 2019 5:38:18 PM -   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: How would you print this?

If it was a relatively low quantity, I'd butt register the whole thing and use opaque ink for the red. It would make for less of a "sweatpatch" in the circle, and would eliminate the skinny trap which would be necessary for the red overprint.

And if you do it this way, you might try printing the opaque white last. This will eliminate the ink creep that you might otherwise experience.
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Old March 13th, 2019 Mar 13, 2019 9:52:15 PM -   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: How would you print this?

we use a mix of ETTM Red and black and would have printed just the red, white and black without under base's we print like this on white, black or coloured garments so all colours would look the same accross any colour tshirt.
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Old March 15th, 2019 Mar 15, 2019 2:49:44 PM -   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: How would you print this?

Thanks guys, good stuff. Obviously a few ways to skin a cat. I've been using lower mesh screens over the years, with hardly a minute to experiment with different methods. I think I'll try some higher meshes like you guys are suggesting, and some soft hand to try and get that softer hand. Although, I can't help but think it would force me to hit certain colors like white 3 times, instead of 2. I don't see how you can get opacity with a higher mesh screen with just 2 hits. Even with my lower mesh prints sometimes require me to hit it 3 times. Maybe I've always used too much pressure, sheering too much off? Seems like I have to have some decent pressure though to combat fibrilated/fuzzy prints.

Another thing, top white, I like the idea, heard it before, but that also would probably limit me to only using my first 3 platens as I don't think my press can hold that tight of registration on all boards. It would obviously have to be tight as hell to land dead on with a top white. I need knew equipment, I need an auto!

I ended up underbasing the whole thing, including the black. That was kind of a first for me. Hit the white twice first, then red with a spread, trapped with black. They turned out nice. In the past I would have printed the bunny with a one stroke spread, then trapped it with black, but I like these results better even though it's strange as hell to underbase black, lol.

Thanks again fellas, much appreciated!
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Old March 15th, 2019 Mar 15, 2019 4:31:15 PM -   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: How would you print this?

I don't like to underbase black. I think it looks better directly on the shirt... The reason I avoid underbasing for many prints is that, even though it takes longer to print with opaque inks because of the extra flashing, I don't have to fight the registration of an overprint and I don't get the trap effect of the spread around the edges and also avoid the occasional "white peek" that can happen with an underbase.

What I do like to underbase is when I do the art with a color object that has a white outline. This is a technique I use often, not so much because it's easier to set up, but also because it really tends to visually "pop" off the shirt.

(But what I learned long ago is that printers tend to examine their prints much more than customers do. As long as it's in register and the overall print looks crisp, the average customer will just glance at it and say "Looks good.")
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