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Discuss the different plastisol screen printing inks and curing methods on the market. Share tips on getting the best results with the different ink manufacturers.



Please recommend an Ink Remover

 
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Old May 15th, 2012 May 15, 2012 11:47:41 AM -   #31 (permalink)
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Default Re: Please recommend an Ink Remover

Quote:
Originally Posted by Basikboy
Too funny, my Wife thought the smell was pleasant as well. It was seriously making me nauseous.

lol, that is funny...i guess that is how i cant stand the smell of broccoli but yet she has 4 rolls of it in the garden...i hate when she cooks it...lol
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Old May 15th, 2012 May 15, 2012 12:22:40 PM -   #32 (permalink)
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Default Re: Please recommend an Ink Remover

We use mineral spirits for on-press or screens we are cataloging. For screens that are being reclaimed and recoated we use a one step ink and emulsion remover made by Kor-Chem followed by a mixture of dawn dish soap and water.
 
Old May 16th, 2012 May 16, 2012 6:36:46 AM -   #33 (permalink)
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Default Re: Please recommend an Ink Remover

For catalog screens I use plastisolv 842...it doesn't set in stains like mineral spirits and smells like juicy fruit gum...........mmmmmmmmmm

I also like to use the EasiStrip SUPRA in my tank as it doesnt die in my tank if I only clean a few screens. Already has a degreaser too!!! Great stuff been using it for years
 
 
Old May 16th, 2012 May 16, 2012 8:20:53 AM -   #34 (permalink)
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Oooh I've heard lots of good things about the easyway but juicy fruit?? Now I must try. I read that the one step from easyway lasted longer than the one from korchem? It might be time for me to try it. Especially if I am buying juicy fruit wash too. Thanks guys!
 
Old May 16th, 2012 May 16, 2012 9:30:05 AM -   #35 (permalink)
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Smile Re: Please recommend an Ink Remover

Quote:
Originally Posted by Basikboy
.... Is there a REAL GOOD Plastisol Ink remover out there to use to clean up my screens before reclaiming? Thank you for any help.
I use Screen Systems screen wash 2500. It's economical and biodegradable, and I have tried it against many other products. It cleans my screens so well that I don't even own a haze remover product... When I can afford it, I may go back to the ICC cleaning products which, in my opinion, are the finest products for screen cleaning ever made, and they are safe to put down the drain (not septic). But they are expensive, usually too expensive for the small shop budget.

Technique is at least as important as the chemicals you are using in the stencil production and reclamation process. Proper exposure is vital, as an underexposed stencil will not harden properly, and then the squeegee forces ink into the uncured emulsion, where the ink particles prevent the emulsion remover from dissolving the stencil. Most people are familiar with the ugly screen that you can still see where the entire coat of emulsion was, after the stencil has been removed. light passes through, but there is a very fine coat of emulsion built up on the mesh.

Here is my technique. I am obsessive-compulsive with having clean screens, and I will put my method up against anybodies.

1) Scrape all ink out with squeegee. Get it ALL.
2) Wet screen with water front and back.
3) Spray 3/4 oz. (about 12 squirts with my squirt bottle) screen systems screen wash 2500 on the squeegee side, then scrub with a scrubbing pad like scotchbrite. Scrub in a circular motion, from top to bottom, adding a little ink wash if it needs. (I get my pads from tubelite, and they are awesome. It's a handle with a removable, reversible, replaceable pad. Handle is $2.00, pads are $1.00. I get them by the case.)
4) wash off ink with pressure washer, working in slow, even passes, from the TOP DOWN.
5) apply 3/4/ oz or less of sodium metaperiodate, aka emulsion remover,aka stencil remover. Scrub from bottom up in circular motions, do both sides.
6) Pressure wash stencil remover off, from BOTTOM UP, using slow even passes, overlapping each stroke by 50%.
7) Here is where I differ from most people. I spray about four or five squirts of the screen wash 2500 on each side. I now take a clean scrubby pad, not the one from the 3rd step, and give both sides a good scrub. This is how I get away with no haze remover. The 2500 dissolves any remaining ink on the screen, and then I pressure wash it off, TOP DOWN.
8)Apply degreaser of choice, I use dish soap, scrubby pad in circular motions on front and back.
9)Pressure wash from TOP DOWN, first with the nozzle about six inches from the mesh, then bringing it back about two feet to "sheet" the water.

I usually process four screens at a time. I can do six, but I have to rush a bit to keep the chems from running off and drying up.

I developed this method over the course of thirty years. I use what tricks work or save me time and money.

Hope this helps.
 
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Old May 16th, 2012 May 16, 2012 10:50:02 AM -   #36 (permalink)
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Default Re: Please recommend an Ink Remover

Seems like a lot of steps. I just scrape out my screens throw them into the tank for a few minutes and blow them out with a pressure washer. If i have any residual stains or ink I just use the Easi 701 ....it has degreasers too. quickkk you can do like 30 or more an hour
 
Old May 16th, 2012 May 16, 2012 10:53:25 AM -   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squeegologist
I use Screen Systems screen wash 2500. It's economical and biodegradable, and I have tried it against many other products. It cleans my screens so well that I don't even own a haze remover product... When I can afford it, I may go back to the ICC cleaning products which, in my opinion, are the finest products for screen cleaning ever made, and they are safe to put down the drain (not septic). But they are expensive, usually too expensive for the small shop budget.

Technique is at least as important as the chemicals you are using in the stencil production and reclamation process. Proper exposure is vital, as an underexposed stencil will not harden properly, and then the squeegee forces ink into the uncured emulsion, where the ink particles prevent the emulsion remover from dissolving the stencil. Most people are familiar with the ugly screen that you can still see where the entire coat of emulsion was, after the stencil has been removed. light passes through, but there is a very fine coat of emulsion built up on the mesh.

Here is my technique. I am obsessive-compulsive with having clean screens, and I will put my method up against anybodies.

1) Scrape all ink out with squeegee. Get it ALL.
2) Wet screen with water front and back.
3) Spray 3/4 oz. (about 12 squirts with my squirt bottle) screen systems screen wash 2500 on the squeegee side, then scrub with a scrubbing pad like scotchbrite. Scrub in a circular motion, from top to bottom, adding a little ink wash if it needs. (I get my pads from tubelite, and they are awesome. It's a handle with a removable, reversible, replaceable pad. Handle is $2.00, pads are $1.00. I get them by the case.)
4) wash off ink with pressure washer, working in slow, even passes, from the TOP DOWN.
5) apply 3/4/ oz or less of sodium metaperiodate, aka emulsion remover,aka stencil remover. Scrub from bottom up in circular motions, do both sides.
6) Pressure wash stencil remover off, from BOTTOM UP, using slow even passes, overlapping each stroke by 50%.
7) Here is where I differ from most people. I spray about four or five squirts of the screen wash 2500 on each side. I now take a clean scrubby pad, not the one from the 3rd step, and give both sides a good scrub. This is how I get away with no haze remover. The 2500 dissolves any remaining ink on the screen, and then I pressure wash it off, TOP DOWN.
8)Apply degreaser of choice, I use dish soap, scrubby pad in circular motions on front and back.
9)Pressure wash from TOP DOWN, first with the nozzle about six inches from the mesh, then bringing it back about two feet to "sheet" the water.

I usually process four screens at a time. I can do six, but I have to rush a bit to keep the chems from running off and drying up.

I developed this method over the course of thirty years. I use what tricks work or save me time and money.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for the advice. This just seems like a ton of work though...
 






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