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Discussion, tips, pictures, reviews and peer to peer support for those do it yourselfers who are working on building their own DTG machine.



[DIY DTG] T-Shirt Dryer

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Old April 6th, 2011 Apr 6, 2011 12:46:51 PM -   #46 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

Spoke with a friend who has allot of experience building ovens of all kinds. He says that the red will only put out a little more heat but with less light. On the other hand it depends on what color the substrate is...

Bob ?;O)
 
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Old April 6th, 2011 Apr 6, 2011 1:27:40 PM -   #47 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

this tempature has me curious!!! what is the difference between the plastisol and the water base polymers? most likly a polyvinyl material?

so is the higher heat needed to burn off the carrier fluid in the water base?

I know we can bend some plastics in the 200 degree range and pvc in the 300 degree range and this is sheet material.. It makes me wonder is there a u.s standard for this for ink curing or a guessing game?

I ask because i know theres no u.s standard for tempature for plastic fabrication/welding, we use the german standards in fact our certifications are from germany and our yearly cert they come here for the class send the materials to germany for testing and then we recieve the results... for our certification..

so in the U.s its really meaningless due to the lack of standards but its a great sales tool for the big jobs...

so who makes these tempature standards for ink curing and where might the spec documents be on the testing that these temps were obtained from!!! just curious..
 
Old April 6th, 2011 Apr 6, 2011 1:38:56 PM -   #48 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

Jeff,

350 degrees is what it takes to get the polymers to bind to the fibers in the shirt. It only takes a few seconds for plastisol but with water based inks (of which DTG Ink is included) you not only have to get it to curing temperature but you have to get the water to evaporate off. So, generally you have to bring the temperature up on a water based shirt a bit more slowly.

BTW, those fiberglass screens have a vinyl coating... Useless!

Perhaps the aluminum screens?


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Old April 6th, 2011 Apr 6, 2011 1:52:30 PM -   #49 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

$1.29 per foot for 2ft wide aluminum screen...

30ft = $38.00...

Thinking out loud...

Bob ?;O)
 
Old April 6th, 2011 Apr 6, 2011 5:33:41 PM -   #50 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

Quote:
Originally Posted by german13
this tempature has me curious!!! what is the difference between the plastisol and the water base polymers? most likly a polyvinyl material?

so is the higher heat needed to burn off the carrier fluid in the water base?

I know we can bend some plastics in the 200 degree range and pvc in the 300 degree range and this is sheet material.. It makes me wonder is there a u.s standard for this for ink curing or a guessing game?

I ask because i know theres no u.s standard for tempature for plastic fabrication/welding, we use the german standards in fact our certifications are from germany and our yearly cert they come here for the class send the materials to germany for testing and then we recieve the results... for our certification..

so in the U.s its really meaningless due to the lack of standards but its a great sales tool for the big jobs...

so who makes these temperature standards for ink curing and where might the spec documents be on the testing that these temps were obtained from!!! just curious..
With our plastisol in it is about 400 degrees 1 min in the chamber 4 foot chamber. when we make plastisol transfers it is about 375 15 to 20 sec
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Old April 7th, 2011 Apr 7, 2011 7:08:05 AM -   #51 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

Definitely going for the conveyor.... Picked up an ancient electric 1/2 HP power gear motor that was laying around. It still worked! I have plenty of C-channel railing I picked up from the trash. 2' 1/2" aluminum screen is a reasonable conveyor material... It looks like a go for the weekend project to wind this business up... The conveyor is just as economical in my mind as the platen bench but more functional. I'll use the remaining material that I bought for the bench to build a new airbrush booth.

Last edited by colorfinger; April 7th, 2011 at 08:55 AM..
 
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Old April 7th, 2011 Apr 7, 2011 7:48:51 AM -   #52 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

Quote:
Originally Posted by drdeath19134
With our plastisol in it is about 400 degrees 1 min in the chamber 4 foot chamber. when we make plastisol transfers it is about 375 15 to 20 sec
Dude, you need to change inks... I don't know of any that require that kind of heat for plastisol... From Union inks,

Quote:
Curing Plastisol Inks

Curing plastisol inks is a matter of exposing them to the proper amount of heat for the correct length of time. Correct curing of plastisol ink is extremely important. The most common problem encountered with plastisol inks is poor washability. In almost every case, this is due to incomplete ink cure.



When plastisol is heated, the resin particles absorb the surrounding liquid (plasticizer) and swell, merge with each other and form a tough, elastic film. It is generally impossible to overcure direct prints because the overcure temperature is above the scorching point of the garment. However, it is not recommended that you heat the ink layer above 350º F (176º C). Above this temperature puff inks fall like a cake when you slam the oven door, and problems with dye migration are greatly increased. If the entire thickness of the ink is not brought to the correct curing temperature the ink will be under-cured (the resin has not absorbed all of the plasticizer) and the ink will crack and flake off the garment when washed.



Temperature

Plastisol will start to become dry to the touch or gelled (also called semi-cured) between 180-250º F (82-121º C). It becomes fully cured between 280-320º F (138-160º C), depending on the type of plastisol. The temperature at which the ink becomes fully cured is called the fusion temperature. Most Union Ink plastisol inks cure at 300º F (149º C). Check the Technical Data Sheet for each Union Ink plastisol for complete instructions.
Concerning the Union Water based textile inks:

Quote:
DRYING AND CURING:

Catalyzed prints will set sufficiently for light stacking within minutes after printing. They will then continue to cure at room temperature. Wash tests should not be carried out until 24 hours after printing. To speed up operations prints may be conveyor-dried at approximately 250F (120C) for 2 minutes.
DTG "Brand" Ink:

Quote:
Recommended Conditions for Fixation curing of DTG Inks*:

For Curing With Heat Press
170 Degrees Celsius / 340 Degrees Fahrenheit
Pressure – 10 psi
Dwell Time – 2 minutes for shirts with no White ink
Dwell Time – 3 minutes for shirts with White Ink
**Dwell time for curing with belt dryer begins when the leading edge of the printed image enters the heat
zone and ends when the same leading edge exits the heat zone.

For Curing with Belt Dryer**
170 Degrees Celsius / 340 Degrees Fahrenheit
Dwell Time – 2 minutes for shirts with no White ink
Dwell Time – 3 minutes for shirts with White Ink

*All equipment temperature settings should be calibrated using a thermocouple or infra-red thermometer.
T-Print DTG Ink Curing:

Quote:
CURING: If cured properly prints will be very washfast. Use a standard heat transfer press set with light pressure and cure printed garments for 180 seconds at 330°F (166°C). If excess humidity is present or if garments are damp cure for 240 seconds. During the final cure process use either a Teflon cover sheet or silicone treated baking pan liner to keep the ink from getting on the heating element. Do NOT use these items to dry pretreatment (see Washability). If using a conveyor textile dryer you MUST achieve these times and temperatures. Always do wash tests and verify your drying temperature.
This is interesting because Scott Fresner says that you should test your ovens up to 330 degrees...

What to Look for in Curing Units/Dryers by Scott Fresener |

The only place where I see 250 is when drying water-based textile inks from Union... I haven't checked any other... Now, basically what is the difference between water-based and DTG inks? I would think there would be more binders in water-based inks...

Hope this sheds the light....

Bob ?;O)
 
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Old April 7th, 2011 Apr 7, 2011 11:14:21 AM -   #53 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

Quote:
Originally Posted by colorfinger
Now, basically what is the difference between water-based and DTG inks? I would think there would be more binders in water-based inks...
I'm thinking the reason for the difference is that there is less binder present with DTG ink so we need to ensure that the maximum number of bindings take place between the ink and the shirt....

Just thinking out loud...

Bob
 
Old April 10th, 2011 Apr 10, 2011 9:50:58 PM -   #54 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

Sorry for being so quite lately... I have been busy working on the conveyor... I have the frame built and all the parts. Finished making the conveyor rollers and they are drying in the garage... It won't be until next weekend till I'm able to do a dryer run. Good times... Good times...

Bob ?;O)
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Old April 10th, 2011 Apr 10, 2011 10:32:40 PM -   #55 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

BTW, If you are wondering why the lumber looks so scrappy... It's because 90% of this conveyor is made from old pallets from work... I pulled the metal framing channel from the dumpster as well. The only thing purchased were two 10 foot 2X4s, bolts, nails, and the v-belt. I've purchased other things but I'm referring to what's in the pic...

Bob ?;O)
 
Old April 11th, 2011 Apr 11, 2011 5:41:36 AM -   #56 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

Quote:
Originally Posted by colorfinger
BTW, If you are wondering why the lumber looks so scrappy... It's because 90% of this conveyor is made from old pallets from work... I pulled the metal framing channel from the dumpster as well. The only thing purchased were two 10 foot 2X4s, bolts, nails, and the v-belt. I've purchased other things but I'm referring to what's in the pic...

Bob ?;O)
That looks like nice wood to me!
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Old April 16th, 2011 Apr 16, 2011 12:39:08 AM -   #57 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

Sorry it's been a while since I've posted anything. The pace of life can be a real challenge. I got a wild hair and setup the oven today. There will need to be a few small tweaks but the idea is there. Hopefully I will make some headway into finishing the conveyor but I have tons of yard work due.

Enjoy...

Bob ?;O)
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Old April 17th, 2011 Apr 17, 2011 10:28:48 PM -   #58 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

Well, I managed to get the rollers all affixed. I cut the electrical channel and used it to hold a piece of ducting sheet metal. It works great with no welding or riveting. Next I will setup the motor, drive roller and belt....

Bob ?;O)
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Old April 17th, 2011 Apr 17, 2011 10:34:11 PM -   #59 (permalink)
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Default Re: T-Shirt Dryer

The belt is wide enough for two shirts folded at about 12 inches each side by side. This means that we can average drying 1 shirt per minute. Sixty shirts an hour... Can you keep up? Of course this is only if we can get the heat up to 250... If not then I will use the oven to burn screens and build a propane oven.

Bob ?;O)
 
Old April 18th, 2011 Apr 18, 2011 12:23:06 AM -   #60 (permalink)
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Default

Looking good! Keep in mind that when curing a large volume of DTG printed shirts in a tunnel dryer, the massive amount of evaporating moisture can actually cause the temp to fluctuate a great deal. We learned this the hard way, when we used to use a 16' tunnel dryer with our Kornit printer many years ago. Too many shirts passing through at once and the curing capability is greatly diminished!

Are you installing some sort of forced air system to evacuate moisture as the shirts cure? Very important for water-based inks, and DTG inks in particular!
 






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