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Epson R1900 DTG thorough documentation, photo, and video forum

[DIY DTG] 
486K views 1K replies 152 participants last post by  epsom 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This thread is for the purpose of deep documentation of the R1900 DIYDTG build. We welcome anybody that has an input to add, no egos here. Special thanks to the team that made the other DIYDTGs possible.

Admin note: this project was never completed. If you need help building a DIYDTG, please read through the active thread here: http://www.t-shirtforums.com/diy-dtg/t120740.html
 
#35 ·
I want to add the Google Sketchup files although I cannot figure out how? If push comes to shove I will invoke my web skills and make a page for them. If you have a idea let me know, I really want to share them with you, and this is the proper venue.
 
#36 ·
I'm curious as to why you installed the aluminum angle with the foot on top. (when refering to structural angle iron or aluminum, the verticle piece is generaly refered to as the leg and the horizontal part is the foot)? Are you building with a belt drive system? If so, what made you decide to use a belt drive instead of friction drive of the platen tray? Please take lots of pictures of how and where and why you plase the PE sensor and with measurements please. :)
 
#37 ·
Yes a belt drive system. From reading it seems a friction drive system has been tested and abandoned a couple of times. I did start with a friction system and went to a mechanical engineer friend of mine that works at a urethane company. He told me a friction system might work but in the long run it would not be reliable in a precision setting like an inkjet. He favored a timing belt design for repeatability. With that said I am no expert and things are invented by thinking outside the box. My thought going into this is a friction based system really takes care of the timing problem if you keep you driver size exactly the same.
As for the PE sensor wow that one has me really thinking. I will be doing a lot of reading and asking questions for that one. We will do a 3D cad of what we do and also plenty of photos and measuring. I want this to be the bible of how to build this thing without a lot of guesswork. Thanks for your comment!
 
#47 ·
Yes it would be fine but don't forget to print some test print on paper before you take apart of it and do nozzle check if print head is in good condition or not, if it is not you better fine another one because the price of R1900 print head is almost the same price with new R1900 (after rebate, that what I heard).
 
#52 ·
Its always best to buy an epson refurb.. from epson online directly..

this way you know your getting a brand new printer for between 349-379.00

most of the used 1900 on ebay are trash.. why else would they sell it.. it usually has an issue and most of the time its a clogged printhead (the most expensive part):)
 
#58 ·
Ok, like I said I went to Walmart and bought the plastic cutting board. My nephew Nick was not here this weekend so I stepped into Google Sketchup and took it for a spin. I did my best although Nick will clean it up. The first step is to do a little shopping and mark up your cutting board. You are going to need 20 #4 X 1” wood screws ¾” would work fine, and 4 10-24x1” Machine Screws, You can use the locking nuts from the bag you purchased earlier in the project. Get out your sharpie and mark up the board as follows.
 

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#59 ·
Now that you have marked up your board you need to cut it up. The first cut is to take the sides off. Mark the 12 1/2 “ center very carefully, it is the most important part, cut it out of the center. I used a table saw. I cleaned the edges by scraping a razor blade backwards along the sides. Get it as soon as you take it off the saw the plastic is still very soft.
 

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#60 ·
We now need to drill the 4 holes to attach the platen to the aluminum angle. Measure 3” down each side and use your sharpie to make a mark about 3/16” from the side. Do this for all 4 corners. Use your m13/64” drill from earlier in the project to drill these 4 holes. I personally used a hand drill although would of preferred a drill press to keep the holes straight.


As you can see this can get a bit messy so make sure to clean up as you go!

Here is a drawing of the platen we are building so you can see where this project is going.
 

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#61 ·
Now we need to cut up the extra parts to make the front and the sides. First out of the center of the two side parts you will need to get two pieces 12 ½” long. From the ends of the two side parts you will need to get 4 pieces 2 ½” long. The parts should be approximately 1 ¼” tall. Don’t worry about the PE slot as of yet. Cut the above parts and clean them up. Below is a photo of the final part we are building.

Sorry I did not take photos of the above cuts although I thought that I did! Getting OLD!
 

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#62 ·
Now we need to mark up and drill the small holes to attach the ends to. Start by holding the top end to the front and back of the platen, mark with your sharpie. Mark out four holes starting from each side. I went with 2” and 5” from each side. You must not put a screw where the PE Slot will be! Study the drawing! Drill your holes with a 5/64” drill bit. And counter sink the holes so they will be flush to the bottom of the platen when the screws are inserted.

Now hold your platen end in place and drill the holes into the top end. You can also use a clamp to hold it in place.
 

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#64 ·
Good morning! Now it’s time to put the 4 side parts into place. I clamped them in and drilled from the front and back parts into the side parts. Make this hole high so you can take advantage of torque. Clean the part and then put the screw in. Don’t forget to countersink! Do all four parts this way them drill from the bottom and put the screws in. I slipped a razorblade into the gap to clean it out before I put the screws into place.
 

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#65 ·
Now it time to set up the table saw. READ CAREFULLY set the fence at 3 ½” and the blade height at ¾”. You will have to remove your anti kick back so be real careful! Run your platen through the saw. My blade removed 1/16” so I moved the fence 1/16” closer to the blade and cut again. Repeat until you have a ½” PE slot. Don’t go below ½” as you will need lot of play here so the PE does not rub.
 

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#67 ·
I looked at a lot of photos and the clue book. It seems to be a factor of where and how you mount the PE sensor. So I decided to assign a value and make the PE mount to match it. Everyone seems to do it a little different from what I can see. This was a question I had also.

BTW I had a hard time understanding why a slot and not just a hard trip on the bottom? Then it struck me you can put different jigs in the drawer and it will be custom every time! Freaking smart German!
 
#68 ·
Clean up your slot and clean up the mess now. We are going to now mount the new platen into the frame. Place your new platen into the frame with the PE slot to the right. Line it up nice and square by taking a lot of measurements from the sides. Drill your first hole at the front right side and put a 10-24 1”machine screw into it. Make sure you keep it real clean with a vacuum as you don’t want any filings to get into the rails. Now push the platen into place take lots of measurements a drill the front left hole insert a screw. Keep it clean! Now again measure and drill the right back hole and insert a screw. Now drill the left rear hole and insert a screw. Your platen should now move freely! If it does not take the platen off and increase the whole size in the frame so you have some play and you can correct things when you tighten the nuts. Leave the nuts off for now as you will be removing the platen in the near future to install the mechanics.
 

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#70 ·
Again I want to stress that this is my first time and I am documenting it as my payment. So use what you see. If I find a problem I will document the fix. If you see a problem please tell me so I can correct it. Now off to find my R1900 printer sole mate!
 
#71 ·
I will condense it all when I am finished and put it at the end as a download. Spider also asked if they could use our drawings in the clue book. Of course I said yes! Thus some of the info will be incorporated into the clue book.
 
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