DTFuqua

Thank you for the well wishes. If they are comparable in price, I will probably go with MULTI RIP when the time comes. Mark has been here for a long time and always very helpfull when he can. I saw in looking up some of your other threads that you have some experience with the 1100. I didn't find a lot of information about using it for DTG (will do a search) but with being a 24/7 care-taker, my funds are limited and if this is a viable machine for this process, it would make a good first production DTGfor someone like me at a hugh savings to gather the extra funds to make the 1900 for using on collors and darks shirts. Does it need a RIP to work for just white shirts? And, do you know of any posts/threads that work with/on/about the 1100 just in case I miss something important in my searching? Again, thank you.
Terry

 

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102557

Quote: Originally Posted by DTFuqua Thank you for the well wishes. If they are comparable in price, I will probably go with MULTI RIP when the time comes. Mark has been here for a long time and always very helpfull when he can. I saw in looking up some of your other threads that you have some experience with the 1100. I didn't find a lot of information about using it for DTG (will do a search) but with being a 24/7 care-taker, my funds are limited and if this is a viable machine for this process, it would make a good first production DRG for someone like me at a hugh savings to gather the extra funds to make the 1900 for using on collors and darks shirts. Does it need a RIP to work for just white shirts? And, do you know of any posts/threads that work with/on/about the 1100 just in case I miss something important in my searching? Again, thank you. Terry

well lol

i started with the 1100...

i can tell you that you will have to include the pe switch in an 1100 mod without a micro controller.. i played with this a long time.. we did bypass the sensors with the micro however there was an end of print timing issue that required additional sensors electronics..

i suppose you could do this mod with only using the epson driver since its not rip supported (reason why i moved on), and including the pe switch.. i myself had no luck with doing this consistently with out error amongst other issues jockeying of the platen and registration probs.. on double pass..it is a very nice printer however but the sensors in my opinion cannot be overcome without additional electronics which get costly and in many cases non reliable depending on what its programmed in..

for the investment, time, and quality and speed of the print i would say the 1900 is the best avenue and its a newer printer with parts to be available for a long time to come, with a coated print head.. as im sure you know several commercial manufacturers use the 1900 as there base printer..i would like to do a 4800 but its just to expensive of a printer for the extra 4" width..i have the cure for it as wellmaybe in the future a bit..im going to get printing with this bad boy..

i would talk to bob on this question (colorfinger) he has a complete set up with the 1100, and has more experience with the complete set up he has... there is something that i did not try it was mentioned by someone else in the forums using a 1400- he suggested using a 555 timer or a delay timer to trip the pe...this would be a great cure if its consistant and set up properly but there is also end of print issue with that aswell tripping the pe off at the end of print..(im sure it can be done) i started out trying to over engineer the issues of the printers this is a major fault i have..

additionally i agree on your opinion of mark, he is a top notch guy..and even responded to me on his honey moon thats what i call customer service....

best of luck on your build

 

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DTFuqua

Thank you. You saved me a lot of time trying to find information. Theres not a lot of it on anyone that tried an 1100 and kept going. I will want/need to have a machine that is able to do small production (like in a flea market situation) without a lot of hick-ups so I will start preparing for the 1900 to get started after I get the c120 to work.

 

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102557

Quote: Originally Posted by DTFuqua Thank you. You saved me a lot of time trying to find information. Theres not a lot of it on anyone that tried an 1100 and kept going. I will want/need to have a machine that is able to do small production (like in a flea market situation) without a lot of hick-ups so I will start preparing for the 1900 to get started after I get the c120 to work.

good idea...the 1100 was my starter...and i still believe this can be done with some savy delay timer set-up..
however its not rip supported...

the whole key is using a printer that has a roll mode..dtg digital and mod 1 run in this mode. it makes the electronic hack alot easier in my case using just epson firmware, just rerouting some internal board wiring as i mentioned earlier, allowing you to fore go the pe switch amongst many other benefits.. it took alot of late nights and burning the candles at both ends to figure it out... not only that there was a tremendous amount of time spent calculating measurements to fit it to this footprint with no ffc (flexible flat cable extentions)..

its pretty small foot print, compared to even commercial models, i would like to say only the rainbow textile printers is smaller-but its close, i'll have to check there dimensions to confirm

best of luck on your build..

jeff

 

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raise

I have own both RIP software programs and based on my experience, MultiRIP GP is the better of the two programs all around. EK Print is a very simple program, but I found it very limiting. I found that I had to do more testing and color tweaking with EK Print. I also found printing photographs with EK Prints extremely difficult. It seems like the color profiles were really designed for just clip art printing – colors were oversaturated and while that makes the prints seem brighter; forget trying to do decent skin tones (every fair skinned person looks a bit tomato-ish, Asians look almost green and dark skin colors are too dark without enough contrast) or color matching. The problem is any screen printer can do spot colors and probably with more opacity and vibrancy. Photos are what separates a dtg printer from an average screen printer. MultiRIP allows you to print from their own printing application (like EK Print has), but it also allows you to print directly from CorelDraw or Illustrator. This prevents you from having to convert a vector graphic into a raster graphic before bringing it into the EK Print application. Everyone knows that when you convert the graphic from a vector to a raster, the colors change. So it is best to leave it in its original format and let the RIP software do the work for you.

 

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cmos

I am thrilled too, my machine is practically finished
Jeff you beat me for 12 hours
We need a cheap rip, I liked multirip too but it is expensive

 

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DTFuqua

Thanks again. Yes, the foot print of your machine is a very good size to fit into a booth at the local flea market here. Actualy, it looks totaly like a factiry made piece of equipment with the cover removed in the video. You have also inspired me to look into plastic welding. I had seen the "plastic welders" at harbour freight but just thought it would be a useless gadget for anything that had to be rigid. I do welding on steel with a mig unit and some braising with a torch so it shoulden't be a long stretch for me.
Terry

 

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102557

Quote: Originally Posted by cmos I am thrilled too, my machine is practically finished Jeff you beat me for 12 hours We need a cheap rip, I liked multirip too but it is expensive

cmos,

cant wait till you get her up and running, its all very exciting

i just live for this stuff...

 

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cmos

I feel intoxicated with the making of this machine...i dont know what i will do after i finish the cosmetic part LOL

 

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102557

Quote: Originally Posted by DTFuqua Thanks again. Yes, the foot print of your machine is a very good size to fit into a booth at the local flea market here. Actualy, it looks totaly like a factiry made piece of equipment with the cover removed in the video. You have also inspired me to look into plastic welding. I had seen the "plastic welders" at harbour freight but just thought it would be a useless gadget for anything that had to be rigid. I do welding on steel with a mig unit and some braising with a torch so it shoulden't be a long stretch for me. Terry

terry...

heres a tip i haven't shared yet besides with bob.. the material i used is pvc type II high impact plastic.. therefor it can be solvent welded ie( plumbing glue) it just takes a bit longer to set up and your cuts have to be precise even the cut edges sanded smooth for good contact.. i suggest making a square jig for those not confident about the plastic welding..

i use the plastic welder because my edges dont have to be perfect the rod fills it. then i just sand the top level..

also you could build it from plexi ie acrylic,plexi glass lexan available at lowes..this can be painted with acrylic paint and will look the same or vinyl stickered.. the best part of this material is it is solvented welded also but its bond is instant.. heres the trick you use (mek) available at most hardware stores including lowes..lol its branded as a parts cleaner and its some potent stuff..lol (this is the main ingredient in most plastic glues) you will use it in its pure form, it has the consistency of water use a syringe or hypo applicator to apply the liquid to the pieces to be bonded, instantly becomes one piece make sure you have it in a jig no taking it apart (this is how fish tanks are made) what it does is disolve or soften the molecules for a second between the two pieces that are to be joined then it hardens intertwining the two pieces molecules ie (becomes one piece) its not gluing, solvent welding

additionally you polish the edges using a map gas torch..similar to the small propane torch just different gas... it makes it awesome...

P.S DO NOT ATTEMPT TO POLISH THE EDGES WITH ANY MEK PRESENT IT IS EXTREMELY FLAMABLE..

 

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102557

Quote: Originally Posted by cmos I feel intoxicated with the making of this machine...i dont know what i will do after i finish the cosmetic part LOL

make money printing shirts...lol

 

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DTFuqua

Quote: Originally Posted by german13 terry... heres a tip i haven't shared yet besides with bob.. the material i used is pvc type II high impact plastic.. therefor it can be solvent welded ie( plumbing glue) it just takes a bit longer to set up and your cuts have to be precise even the cut edges sanded smooth for good contact.. i suggest making a square jig for those not confident about the plastic welding.. i use the plastic welder because my edges dont have to be perfect the rod fills it. then i just sand the top level.. also you could build it from plexi ie acrylic,plexi glass lexan available at lowes..this can be painted with acrylic paint and will look the same or vinyl stickered.. the best part of this material is it is solvented welded also but its bond is instant.. heres the trick you use (mek) available at most hardware stores including lowes..lol its branded as a parts cleaner and its some potent stuff..lol (this is the main ingredient in most plastic glues) you will use it in its pure form, it has the consistency of water use a syringe or hypo applicator to apply the liquid to the pieces to be bonded, instantly becomes one piece make sure you have it in a jig no taking it apart (this is how fish tanks are made) what it does is disolve or soften the molecules for a second between the two pieces that are to be joined then it hardens intertwining the two pieces molecules ie (becomes one piece) its not gluing, solvent welding additionally you polish the edges using a map gas torch..similar to the small propane torch just different gas... it makes it awesome...

Those are some very nice tips. I may have used that cleaner before without realizing its abilities. I know I have used acetone and that stuff evaporates way quick. And I do still have and old table saw (cheap but has a good ripfence) so i will be good to go when the time comes to start building. May have to use the plastic welder though as it doesn't make quite perfect cuts. Shoot,I may even do the c120 build that way. Good practice for the real thing. Again, you have my gratitude.
Terry

 

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102557

Quote: Originally Posted by DTFuqua Those are some very nice tips. I may have used that cleaner before without realizing its abilities. I know I have used acetone and that stuff evaporates way quick. And I do still have and old table saw (cheap but has a good ripfence) so i will be good to go when the time comes to start building. May have to use the plastic welder though as it doesn't make quite perfect cuts. Shoot,I may even do the c120 build that way. Good practice for the real thing. Again, you have my gratitude. Terry

THANKS AGAIN,for the kind words...best of luck on your build...

 

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102557

ok guys,

I'm figuring out the settings and understanding the rip a little more..

the t-shirts i printed in the video where 1400x1400 res

the 720x720 wasn't giving me the detail i wanted, but here is what is awesome i discovered the rip has a table movement adjustment
gap adjust and feed adjust im still playing with this but ive got a perfect image at 720x720

anyone familiar with how jerky the bed is at low res will understand this completely

so in the video if you thought that was a fast print at 1400x1400..well you can just about cut that time in half or better closer to half by my calculations printing the same image..

and it gives the same quality picture in my opinion... no distortion etc

just freaking awesome... i already considered the rip a necessity but this feature alone is worth the money to me... i posted this vid of mark explaining the mod 1 at a trade show in the other thread..but if you watch it all the way thru he explains this res issue at 720x720 apparently he has some firmware that overcomes this issue my guess is its in the rip programming as it has these adjustments on them..here it is again..
YouTube - T-Biz Network Interview Mark Monbourquette at SGIA '09

now the machine just cranks out the images whether it be graphics or photos super fast like its nothing, just as the printer normally would..just awesome..im jacked up about this..
jeff

 

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muneca

oh okay, i will have to check this one out.

 

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