queenVee

Can someone please tell me the proper heat and dry setting you enter on the Roland VP540 for Solutions opaque [Solvent] heat transfer I bought from Imprintables???

after you print. how long do you wait to until you transfer it on the garnment? can you heat transfer right after you print?

when using spectra solution clear do you have to use the clear magic mask solution?? or do you just mirror image and use a kraft paper to transfer..

we know on the solution opaque you need magic mask..

 

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mike2468

Well, for starters, turn the heaters off. You don't want the heat running when printing on transfer material.

I have applied prints from my sp300 within 2 hours of printing but been told by some to wait 12 hours, some say 24 hours. Can't say I have had any problems with the 2 hour jobs.

I just use some clear masking tape here to pull the artwork up and press it on. Put teflon sheet over the transfer and press away.

Mike

 

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queenVee

Hi Mike,
makes sense not to use heat/and dry on the roland...
and wait until at least 2hrs before printing..
and this part...

Quote: I just use some clear masking tape here to pull the artwork up and press it on. Put teflon sheet over the transfer and press away

your talking about the clear majic mask trasfer clear application tape right..

not the clear application that you use for regular vinyl.."like the vinyl orcale kind"
the special clear transfer tape you buy with imprintables right???

 

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mike2468

Quote: Originally Posted by queenVee your talking about the clear majic mask trasfer clear application tape right.. not the clear application that you use for regular vinyl.."like the vinyl orcale kind" the special clear transfer tape you buy with imprintables right???

That is correct, but I'm sure there are other materials out there that also work. As for the Roland material, myself I was not real pleased with. I mean it prints well, but it's thick, and don't seen to hold up thru washings. I use a material called 'Siser' Colorprint and have had real good results with it. Thinner material and holds up very well.

Mike

 

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JoshEllsworth

Quote: Originally Posted by queenVee Can someone please tell me the proper heat and dry setting you enter on the Roland VP540 for Solutions opaque [Solvent] heat transfer I bought from Imprintables??? after you print. how long do you wait to until you transfer it on the garnment? can you heat transfer right after you print? when using spectra solution clear do you have to use the clear magic mask solution?? or do you just mirror image and use a kraft paper to transfer.. we know on the solution opaque you need magic mask..

You can download the print profiles for this material from the product support section of the imprintables site.

Just specify in Versaworks to use the default media setting for your heaters. Everything is programmed for you when you use the profiles.

__________________
Josh Ellsworth - Stahls' CAD-CUT Direct
Manufacturer Direct Heat Transfer Vinyl

 

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queenVee

Quote: Originally Posted by JoshEllsworth You can download the print profiles for this material from the product support section of the imprintables site. Just specify in Versaworks to use the default media setting for your heaters. Everything is programmed for you when you use the profiles.

great Illl try that 2mrw thx

 

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queenVee

Quote: Originally Posted by mike2468 That is correct, but I'm sure there are other materials out there that also work. As for the Roland material, myself I was not real pleased with. I mean it prints well, but it's thick, and don't seen to hold up thru washings. I use a material called 'Siser' Colorprint and have had real good results with it. Thinner material and holds up very well. Mike

what vendor did you buy it from please,
thanks,

 

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mike2468

I purchased it from Signwarehouse. Other vendors probably sell the material also.

Mike

 

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kpk703

Please, anyone chime in. I'm having fits with Solutions Opaque printed on a VP-540 curling when/after weeding. I'm not talking about the backing curling, I'm talking about the heat press vinyl curling on any sharp points upon weeding. Once curled, it's a nightmare to mask the material. I'm waiting a couple hours (which is a bit of an inconvenience,) but that doesn't seem to work. Waiting 24 hours will be a production killer. Steve Jackson has been of great help in recommending cutting first and then printing, but the curling is driving me up the wall. Thoughts/recommendations?

__________________
Ken - What doesn't kill you, can leave a nasty mark!
www.devildawg.net - www.ddwaterjet.com

 

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scuba_steve2699

Ken, give me a call and I can help you.

 

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joeshaul

Major curling is probably due to too much pressure on your cut or your blade has become dull. I usually set my VersaWorks settings to allow for one hour dry time before cut, this setting is located under Printer Controls and then "Other Controls". With all solvent based material it's recommended to leave sit 12 hours before application to outgas, but don't think cutting is harmful to it in any way.

 

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Hwy101

I use Solution's Opaque on a Roland SP300V with heaters on (to facilitate faster drying) and press immediately after printing without any problems whatsoever.
If However, I'm cutting into a bleed, I'll wait a couple of hours before contour cutting otherwise it's print, cut, weed, mask and press.

 

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scuba_steve2699

You can cut prior to printing and have it return to the orgin and then print over the cut and it will not curl. A simple fix to keep you from waiting for the print to fully dry. If you set the heater control to the default media settings it will apply the correct heat to dry the print for you.

 

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TheDecalWorld

Ok, after reading this post I have a feeling of what I did wrong. I was having issues with a small white line when I print a design like the images attached. Well I had a great idea of expanding the stroke out a little and cutting inside the print area to fix the issue. Well as you can see from the images I attached my plan didnt work to well. I am guessing I need to cut first then print? What is the best way to do this? Just got my VP300i a few weeks ago and still not familiar with all the settings. Will I still have this issue if I were to cut first? Any other tips or tricks to help with this issue? I am willing to try anything. Thanks so much!

Matt

First Image:

2nd Image:

 

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TheDecalWorld

OK, I tried the cut then Print. It got rid of the bubbles that were forming. I thought great it's fixed! So I go to weed it and it is just impossible? Every single little corner starts to come up and I need to use the weeding tool to keep it in place as I peel? My only guess would be that I don'r have enough force on the blade? I have it set at 70 and it seems good on the test cut? Please help????

 

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