Discuss the various aspects of heat pressed vinyl transfers. Popular and new types of vinyl media, suppliers, vinyl cutters /plotters, press times, quality, how to instructions and more can be found in this heat press sub forum.
This is a newbi= ques> jet pro sofstretch, how many ways can I use this product(and other heat transfer papers)? Can I put in the roland? Which heat trans-paper work with the roland(which don't)? Maybe I'm confused?
Yes, you can use JPSS on any plotter with a registration mark sensor. With JPSS, you can either use a carrier and cut through the polymer and the backing paper, or you can cut just through the polymer (the transfer itself). I didn't know that JPSS was 2-ply until after I did my tests with it, and now that I think about it I may just cut through the polymer and weed that, and leave the backing paper in-tact.
You can cut just about any modern professional transfer paper on a plotter with the ARMS. But most papers for lights you need to use a carrier sheet like Magic Mask when you cut it.
Most opaques you can cut without a carrier sheet and cut just through the transfer itself and leave the backer in-tact.
If you have any questions at all about this process I'll be happy to answer them.
P.S. I use a Graphtec, but the process is very similar with a Roland.
I havent ask a thousand questions in a while, so here we go!! When I sent this thread I was going to start using the transfers right away, but I was having fun, cutting with the vinyl. 1st, What is magic mask and where do I get it? What would be a good setting if I'm cutting with JPSS? When I use JPSS, I still have to mirror my images and press with the image face down? Any additional information would be helpful!!!
Magic Mask is just a clear plastic sheet with adhesive on one side for you to stick any single-ply media to so you can cut it on a vinyl cutter. The thing is, anything that you cut on a plotter needs a backer so that you don't cut all the way through to your plotter. If you cut all the way through it will not only mess up whatever you're cutting, but it will also damage your plotter.
I buy Magic Mask from Beacon Graphics.
For JPSS, you CAN cut it without using Magic Mask, but using MM will allow you to use more of your transfer sheet. The setting on your plotter depends if you want to cut all the way through your transfer and backer, or just through the polymer of your transfer. For just the polymer, I use 30g downforce, and to cut all the way through I believe I use 150g downforce. Both with a 60 degree blade.
You still need to mirror your images with JPSS when you use MM, but I would mirror your image in your design program, not in your printer's driver. That way, if you're only using three reg marks they're not reversed, too, which will give you read errors with your plotter.
And yes, you still press your transfer face down as normal. You can either remove your MM and press as normal or leave your MM on. It can handle the heat of a heat press.
If you have a very complex contour cut, say, with multiple, unconnected elements to it, then you need to leave your transfer on your MM.
Let me know if you have any more questions or if you'd like me to explain a little more.
Magic Mask is just a clear plastic sheet with adhesive on one side for you to stick any single-ply media to so you can cut it on a vinyl cutter. The thing is, anything that you cut on a plotter needs a backer so that you don't cut all the way through to your plotter. If you cut all the way through it will not only mess up whatever you're cutting, but it will also damage your plotter.
I buy Magic Mask from Beacon Graphics.
For JPSS, you CAN cut it without using Magic Mask, but using MM will allow you to use more of your transfer sheet. The setting on your plotter depends if you want to cut all the way through your transfer and backer, or just through the polymer of your transfer. For just the polymer, I use 30g downforce, and to cut all the way through I believe I use 150g downforce. Both with a 60 degree blade.
You still need to mirror your images with JPSS when you use MM, but I would mirror your image in your design program, not in your printer's driver. That way, if you're only using three reg marks they're not reversed, too, which will give you read errors with your plotter.
And yes, you still press your transfer face down as normal. You can either remove your MM and press as normal or leave your MM on. It can handle the heat of a heat press.
If you have a very complex contour cut, say, with multiple, unconnected elements to it, then you need to leave your transfer on your MM.
Let me know if you have any more questions or if you'd like me to explain a little more.
Hi Chani,
I read in one of your posts that you successfully used MM with an Opaque transfer and I seen the result of your tshirt. (posted with circles). Can i ask is applying this the same as light except it's placed ontop of the design? Another member has tried it this way but not getting the results. Apparently the transfer is sticking with the MM when removing.
Yes, it's applied to the face (printed) side of your transfer. The thing is, you cold-peel it, and then it should work properly, tho it may depend on the paper you're using.
But yes, the design that I showed was printed, cut, weeded, transfered to MM, and then transfered onto the shirt, and cold-peeled.
Yes, it's applied to the face (printed) side of your transfer. The thing is, you cold-peel it, and then it should work properly, tho it may depend on the paper you're using.
But yes, the design that I showed was printed, cut, weeded, transfered to MM, and then transfered onto the shirt, and cold-peeled.
Hope that helps.
Hi Chani,
No worries about not replying sooner, everyone gets busy at times.
I appreciate the info and will follow these steps.
Yes, it's applied to the face (printed) side of your transfer. The thing is, you cold-peel it, and then it should work properly, tho it may depend on the paper you're using.
But yes, the design that I showed was printed, cut, weeded, transfered to MM, and then transfered onto the shirt, and cold-peeled.
Hope that helps.
I just tried doing this with some dark shirt transfer paper and I couldn't get the transfer to stick to the magic mask-my design was 3 lines of funky lettering and It would only pull up a few of the letters. I used a small plastic sqweege thing to try and get the MM to stick but still didn't work.
kIMsie
I've used this method with Avery (ick. It was the only thing I had on-hand at the time), JetDark from Neenah, and Color Jet III from Specialty Materials.
Whoo hoo!
Glad to see that you have used this with JetDark from Neenah Chani, b'cos this is the transfer I will be using it with. Very lucky, because I bought a whole roll! all i need now is a cutter.. lol.. but for now I will be cutting the transfers with a hobby knife then applying this method.
jpss and plotter 
Re: jpss and plotter 
