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All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens



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All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens
All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens
By Bill Hood, Screenprinting Consultant
Published by Bill Hood
May 27th, 2008
Default All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

The platen is most important part of the press as it ultimately affects the quality of the printed product. The purpose of this post is to point out the material choices available for platens and how these choices affect your printing, your quality and ultimately your very existence in business.

Without a smooth, flat platen, heat resistant platen you will not get quality printing. Yes, increasing the quality and gaining consistency in your printing should be your number one goal in achieving success. This will take you further than any amount of money spent on marketing, sales, advertising or a fancy logo and signage. It will take you closer to your goals than the old adage – Location! Location! Location!

Achieving quality relates to the best way to increase the return on your investment and become more successful! If you were still in high school and this was your first experience with screenprinting a lesser concept might suffice, but for most of us this is our livelihood. The livelihood of your family, as well as your employees and their families as well. With all this at stake, doesn’t it make sense to invest in equipment and components that will allow you to perform to your optimum?

The platen is also referred to in the industry as a pallet, shirtboard, print bed, printing table and any other number of terms. The terms are geographical and also relate to the substrates being printed, i.e. graphic printers generally use the term printing bed, while textile printers have used the term shirtboard at times. The term platen seems to be the most widely used term, however.

Platens can be made in a wide diversity of sizes, shapes and material dependent upon the production needs of the individual shop.

Characteristics of a Platen

- The platen must be flat
- Must be rigid and flex resistant
- Surface must be free of defects
- If a flash is used, the material must be able to withstand the heat

Composition Wood Platens

A great number of inexpensive presses are made with particle wood or medium density fiberboard (MDF) platens. These are actually sink cutouts from countertops purchased in bulk from a cabinet manufacturer who otherwise would discard the leftovers. This keeps the price of the press to a minimum on the original purchase. But it sends a message to some that it is okay to use these cheap platens to print on forever. This is not the case. Just like the cheap tires that come on all new cars that wear out quickly and must be replaced, you should consider replacing the platens after you get past the beginner stage. Think about it like a race car driver, they would not dare use the same tires on their race car as they would use on their car that they drove around the neighborhood. Of course not, the race track presents a completely different need. And just like that race car driver if you want to perform at your optimum, producing the highest quality possible, with the greatest amount of ease, you will do well to consider switching to the very best equipment and especially platens possible.

Composition wood platens will warp, bow and cup and thus are poor choice. The heat of a flash unit will cause more damage to the composition platens. The moisture and resultant steam will quicken this affect. As the wood ages, it has a tendency to cup or bow thus creating an uneven surface that will make printing difficult.

When the wood cups, i.e. becomes lower in the middle and higher on the sides the subsequent ink deposit will be less on the outside edges and thicker in the middle of the print. If the wood bows, you will get the opposite affect. The ink deposit will not be able to cured evenly and may degrade on the printed shirt. Also detail will be lost from the uneven surface. You could continue to sand the wood as it degrades or you could begin with aluminum for the press surface.

Formica or Melamine Covered Platen

Some printing press manufacturers laminate a sheet of Formica or Melamine to the medium density fiberboard platen section of the press. This laminate produces a smoother surface that can be easily cleaned.

However, these platens have their downside as the laminate does little to keep the wood platens from cupping and bowing. In fact, the laminate itself, being a form of plastic is susceptible to degradation as the surface will burn from the flash unit. This burn will cause a blistering, which must be sanded down before the platen can be used again. Also, as the plastic surface is glued to the wood with a non-heat resistant glue they will delaminate as heat builds up from the flash unit. Remember, these were only meant to be suffice as countertops in a home kitchen, and never to withstand the rigors of printing, heat, and abuse we throw at our platens.

Aluminum Platens

Aluminum platens are the most widely used platens by printers as their durability, longevity, and printing quality, offer a good return on investment. Aluminum platens warp less then wood. And solid aluminum can withstand the heat of a flash unit better than other materials. They can also be refinished as necessary should they become marred.

There are many different grades of aluminum. The differences between the grades is immense and the use of inexpensive grades should be avoided. Only the very best materials should be considered. If purchasing aluminum platens one should pay particular attention to the most durable grades, which will be very flat, on plane and able to withstand the strains imparted by the process.

However, there are downsides to aluminum platens. the solid aluminum platens retain heat and while flashing time may be decreased it will vary during the press run as the platens heat up and retain additional heat. An additional factor is the weight of aluminum as compared to MDF clad Melamine.

Aluminum platens can be covered with a 1/8-inch, heat-resistant rubber covering. This offers an optimum printing surface. The use of rubber coverings will be explained further down in this text.

If you’d like to use an aluminum platen I suggest that you contact Action Engineering at Action Engineering-Home for manufacture. They have over 30 years of experience and use only the highest grades of aluminum to manufacture platens for any need. They have stock replacement platens for all popular manual and automatic presses. They also make specialty platens for printing across the shoulder or all over, sock platens, leg platens and well... you name it. Check them out.

Aluminum Honeycomb Platens

Aluminum honeycomb platens have been a huge advancement for the screenprinting industry. This specially designed material was originally developed for the aviation industry. The material is basically a three-layer sandwich in which a honeycombed core is laminated top and bottom with thin sheets of aluminum. It is the honeycomb core that presents the greatest advantage to these platens.

The resulting sandwich results in an exceptionally warp resistant, rigid, and lightweight material. The weight of a 1/2-inch aluminum honeycomb platen is 75-percent less than a 1/4-inch solid aluminum platen.

There are different types of honeycomb cores produced. A larger cell size will reduce the weight and dissipate the heat more rapidly, however will reduce the available amount of surface for gluing the aluminum laminates. This reduces their effectiveness and durability. Therefore, the cell size is an important specification in ordering aluminum honeycomb platens.

Other than weight, the aluminum honeycomb platens exhibit another advantages. They will stay flatter than any other type of platen thus offer a much improved printing surface.

However, aluminum honeycomb platens have their limitations, as well. All aluminum platens must be a minimum thickness of 3/8-inch in order to have the necessary stability and to be able to resist the heat of the flash unit. The very best aluminum honeycomb platens are at least 1/2-inch and 3/4-inch material would be a better choice. On another note, the aluminum honeycomb platens have a thinner surface and will be subject to surface denting and must be handled with great care.

Aluminum honeycomb platens are more commonly used for large format print, i.e. generally larger than 20-inch x 24-inch platen sizes. While it is true that for the larger platen sizes this product is an exception product, because of its attributes, it can be considered a viable product for all platen sizes.

The biggest disadvantage to aluminum honeycomb platens is their inability to hold up well to the heat of flashing. The material takes longer to cool down than solid aluminum. Because the aluminum surfaces are laminated to the core using heat degradable epoxy, excessive heat can cause delamination of the sandwich. The addition of rubber can result in a greater amount of heat retention and thus the susceptibility of delamination.

Rubber Covered Platens

The best platens on the market will be covered with rubber. The heat-resistant, 1/8-inch thick, rubber covering can be applied to any type of platen material.

The better rubber platen coverings will be designed to withstand very high flash temperatures, but can be destroyed if allowed to sit under the flash unit.

Although rubber covering is a cost factor and it will require replacement from time to time, the advantages to this product are many. The rubber surfaces acts to reduce and may completely eliminate the slight surface irregularities in the surface of the platen. It also accepts and helps with slight differences in the plane of the platen. Another great reason for rubber-covered platens is that provide an improved ink deposit onto the surface of the substrate. On dark garments, you will find that the subsequent print will be more opaque and even.

Because the platen will retain heat, the addition of the rubber covering increases the thermal properties by holding the heat much longer and more evenly than a platen without rubber. This means that because the platens stay warmer longer your flash times will be reduced. The disadvantage will be the holding ability of the adhesive will be lessened.

Waterbased Adhesive

The use of waterbased adhesives is widespread in the textile industry. The cost savings is the biggest reason, as it is possible to print over 1,200 shirts before the adhesive must be replaced on the platen. This number is reduced when printing with textile items with an extreme amount of lint or when flashing, but still one will see an extreme cost savings over using spray adhesive.

Speaking of spray adhesive, its use has declined because of the overspray, which saturates the shop and the subsequent lint that adheres to every surface, imposing a fire risk. The use of spray adhesives also pose a health risk to anyone in the general area of these products.

Platen Tape

This product is a fairly recent innovation in the screenprinting industry. Platen tape is essentially a thin, wide masking tape that is available in various widths that match up to the common sizes of platens. It is available up to 24-inches in 25-, 50-, and 100-foot rolls.

The tape is applied to the platen in order to save the time and expense of cleaning. Waterbased adhesives are applied to the tape and as lint builds up, the platen can be easily cleaned with a moistened open-celled sponge. The dampness can be quickly dissipated with the flash unit and printing can be continued.

Hope this helps. I'd certainly like to hear comments on this post.
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Old May 27th, 2008 May 27, 2008 11:08:39 AM -   #1 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

Nice post Bill, Thanks
 
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Old May 27th, 2008 May 27, 2008 1:55:18 PM -   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

Thanks for the great article, Bill!
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Old October 1st, 2008 Oct 1, 2008 7:58:09 AM -   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

Thanks for the response. Isn't it amazing how little attention we pay to the most obvious things in our shops. Be sure to view my Video Tutorial on printing white ink on black t-shirts with a single stroke and no flash. It is full of little things that will make a vast improvement in your success in the screenprinting industry.

Bill Hood
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Old October 4th, 2008 Oct 4, 2008 11:08:34 AM -   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

If I were using a platen say 30" x 42" and was planning on laying the t shirt on top of platens to do my all over designs how should I secure the top ply of the shirt considering the bottom ply is adhered to the platens with mist adhesive? I was thinking a low tack quilitng type adhesive like 202. Do you have any tried and ture methods of eliminating the shirts from moving on top of each other? Thanks for your help
 
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Old October 5th, 2008 Oct 5, 2008 7:15:15 AM -   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

In an all-over print, the top part of the shirt is usually not "glued" to the bottom part of the shirt. It really isn't necessary. I refer to the once popular "belt printers" that printed the all-over designs. They did not adhere the two sides of the shirt. The shirt was placed on a belt that was moved from head to head of the printer and printed.

Try it for yourself. Glue is simply insurance against movement of the shirt. I have printed many T-shirts without the use of glue and did not have a problem. During the printing process when the squeegee is passing over the image in the stencil, it is pushing the shirt down to the platen as it moves to the rear of the screen. The tension of the mesh pulls the mesh up directly behind the squeegee blade, but because the squeegee is still pushing down onto the stencil and the shirt, the shirt does not lift up.

The key here is to have good tension on the mesh. Without the proper tension, you will never be able to achieve a high success rate. Success being a relative term.

Yes, I know this statement will have it's dissenters that will argue against my statements. I don't worry about those who will argue against something without having done the necessary research.

Experience is nothing without the knowledge necessary to do a thing right. One can print for 30 years and make a living, but to be truly successful, one must possess a great amount of knowledge to assure that he isn't leaving money on the table.

A case in point, I recently posted a video on my site at the School of Screenprinting, in which I showed how to print white ink on a black T-shirt with a single stroke and no flash. I had one dissenter write to say that he has been printing for 27 years and would not change his technique now. So, he will just keep on making multiple passes and using a print/flash/print technique (or worse) to pay his bills.

What a shame that people can't be progressive and innovative in their approach to learning all that they can about their livelihood. But, I digress!
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Old January 26th, 2011 Jan 26, 2011 2:01:25 AM -   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

Nice article.

For a shirt, laid on top of a platen and adhered to the platen only at the back, shouldn't ink viscosity and mesh count also be "perfect" so the ink won't pull shirt up even just enough to move it off registration? By perfect, I am thinking of how precise must all the variables be to do this.

If an all-over print can be laid on the platen this way, only the back adhered to the platen, why can't smaller prints be done this way? How about printing on pockets?

Thanks
 
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Old January 27th, 2011 Jan 27, 2011 6:35:34 AM -   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

When printing all over designs the inside of the shirt is usually (not always) sprayed with a corn starch solution to keep the two sections from parting. In this way, the entire shirt is "glued" down and can be printed quite easily without the top part of the shirt lifting up.

Those printers who don't use a binder, usually have higher tension levels, the correct off contact, and yes, as you state, the correct viscosity to create the perfect interface pressure that causes the ink to be placed directly on top of the garment and the screen lifted away without "pulling" on the shirt. It takes knowledge to create this atmosphere, but that knowledge is what separates the very best printers from the rest.
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Old January 27th, 2011 Jan 27, 2011 8:44:17 PM -   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

So the corn starch solution can be applied to pockets as well. Is this a commercial product?
 
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Old January 28th, 2011 Jan 28, 2011 6:27:25 AM -   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

I have been to the Philippines and know that while starching laundry is not normal, it is available. We use corn starch as it is less likely to cause a reaction to most people. You should be able to purchase starch at pretty much any large grocery store in the home laundry products section.
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Old January 28th, 2011 Jan 28, 2011 6:53:34 AM -   #10 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

Found this very helpful! Thanks
 
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Old January 28th, 2011 Jan 28, 2011 11:30:12 AM -   #11 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

very informative post! THANKS
 
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Old January 28th, 2011 Jan 28, 2011 6:30:12 PM -   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

Very educational. Thanks
 
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Old January 28th, 2011 Jan 28, 2011 7:47:10 PM -   #13 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

Once again, awesome Bill.
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Old January 28th, 2011 Jan 28, 2011 8:57:12 PM -   #14 (permalink)
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Default Re: All You Ever Wanted to Know About Platens

When were you here Bill? Is it for vacation or business?

Corn starch is abundant. I just thought that there is a commercial product based on cornstarch . Like the plastisol cleaner based on soya bean.

I have used a platen with a 1/8 felt cloth on top and covered with canvass. Got the idea from a colleague here JSF. I am only guessing that this felt cloth is firmer than the rubber used in aluminum platens. And they're definitely not soft foam used by some old time printers. However, they do show their resilience when printing thin coats of ink. Without it, the minor unevenness of the platen will show through the ink.

Some people have started using fiber cement board platens here. Warp less but it also depends on the wood it rest on top on. The cement board is covered with either a laminate or canvass.

Has anyone ever tried glass or ceramic tile platens?

This shop uses what seems to be a glass platen
 
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