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Trimming Light Color Transfer Paper with a Vinyl Cutter

Please feel free to post up your questions and comments. This is a new process that I figured out through experimenting, so I'd be happy to clear up any confusion that there might be. Keep in mind, that to do this you must have a vinyl cutter with an optical eye sensor.

If you are new to this process overall, and don't understand how the vinyl cutter normally works with opaque transfer paper (paper for dark garments), you should watch this video tutorial as well:

Trimming Opaque Transfer Paper with a Vinyl Cutter

Rodney · August 10th, 2007

Hi Josh, thanks for this slideshow.

Can you outline the steps in words to explain what you're doing on each step?

tonynjanet · November 1st, 2007

Josh,
thanks for the slideshow. Question: what is the see through or vinyl that you put behind the transfer? what is it for?

JoshEllsworth · November 2nd, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonynjanet


	Josh, thanks for the slideshow. Question: what is the see through or vinyl that you put behind the transfer? what is it for?

It is called Masking material (similar to transfer tape in signmaking). It is sticky on one side and helps to make the light colored paper two ply and give it the rigidity needed to feed through a roll style cutter.

mickipke · November 2nd, 2007

Josh,
Would that be the same material as the Magic Mask that Stahls sells?

JoshEllsworth · November 2nd, 2007

Yeah thats it

foreveremb · January 23rd, 2008

Hi Josh,

Our cutter does have software, but I think we are limited in how we can cut a transfer design. I was interested to see you cut around the feathers. Should all software have this capability? We have a Roland Camm-1 servo. We had done a bowling bowl design for our grandson's birthday and ended up hand cutting around the pins....luckily they were round and not to many curves... I would be interested in your thoughts.

Thanks!

JoshEllsworth · January 31st, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by foreveremb


	Hi Josh, Our cutter does have software, but I think we are limited in how we can cut a transfer design. I was interested to see you cut around the feathers. Should all software have this capability? We have a Roland Camm-1 servo. We had done a bowling bowl design for our grandson's birthday and ended up hand cutting around the pins....luckily they were round and not to many curves... I would be interested in your thoughts. Thanks!

You should be able to do this by utilizing the Image Outline feature in the Roland Cut Studio software. Watch the following videos for some help:
Part 1: YouTube - Roland GX-24: Optic Eye Part 1 (Video 7/8)
Part 2: YouTube - Roland GX-24: Optic Eye Part 2 (Video 8/8)

mrdisp · April 5th, 2008

Hi Josh,
This post is incredibly helpful. Thank you.

I just saw the Great Garment Graphics seminar in Rochester, NY. The Roland GX-24 Vinyl Cutter
was very impressive. I do have four questions I was hoping could be explained.
1. While I understand how you describe what to do for Opaque when considering 'separate pieces to design' (like text), what do you do for the light transfers?
2. I was surprised that the vinyl cutter did not cut the masking material as seen in slide 7 - how was that?
3. Why did we even need the masking tape in the first couple steps? I possibly could visualize solution to my first question if I didn't have it.
4. On all the videos I notice you and Bob use the 'image density filter' - while I suspect work 99% of the time, are there other tools in software that you could be more specific and define your own cut areas?

Thanks so much,
Mike

JoshEllsworth · April 8th, 2008

Quote:


	1. While I understand how you describe what to do for Opaque when considering 'separate pieces to design' (like text), what do you do for the light transfers?

The same concept would work with the light colored paper, you just cut in reverse and instead of pulling you image out to apply, just weed away the excess. you will not be able to do greta detail such as 1/4" text.

Quote:


	2. I was surprised that the vinyl cutter did not cut the masking material as seen in slide 7 - how was that?

You actually program the downforce on the cutter and the blade depth so that it only cuts through the top layer.

Quote:


	3. Why did we even need the masking tape in the first couple steps? I possibly could visualize solution to my first question if I didn't have it.

Material must be two layers to feed through a roll style cutter. I needed the backing sheet to offer rigidity and a backer that i wasn't cutting through - this machine will not die cut.

Quote:


	4. On all the videos I notice you and Bob use the 'image density filter' - while I suspect work 99% of the time, are there other tools in software that you could be more specific and define your own cut areas?

Yes. You can go in and edit individual lines within the software.

Please let me know if you have any other questions at all. I'm glad you liked the seminar

dAi · April 8th, 2008

did you put the masking sheet on top of the inkjet paper or in the back? Did you use over 80gcf force on blade on the gx-24?

JoshEllsworth · April 12th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by dAi


	did you put the masking sheet on top of the inkjet paper or in the back? Did you use over 80gcf force on blade on the gx-24?

The mask goes on the back of the paper.

i can't remember the force that I used, but you should start out around 80 and do test cuts , until you get the right setting.

dAi · April 12th, 2008

josh ellsworth, this sucks. I tried using this method with the TTD Masking Sheet with your IW 4 Darks paper and this same method that you're using with the Light Transfer paper with the Masking sheet on the back with Letters and Words and it wouldn't stick up to the Masking sheet it wouldnt pick up with the trimmed image with the sheet....

i think the TTD Mask is not that strong like the Application Tape they use for vinyl signs decals

Rodney · April 15th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by dAi


	josh ellsworth, this sucks. I tried using this method with the TTD Masking Sheet with your IW 4 Darks paper and this same method that you're using with the Light Transfer paper with the Masking sheet on the back with Letters and Words and it wouldn't stick up to the Masking sheet it wouldnt pick up with the trimmed image with the sheet.... i think the TTD Mask is not that strong like the Application Tape they use for vinyl signs decals

You may want to call Josh on the phone to have him walk you through the process. Sometimes people miss messages posted on the forum with all the discussions happening here.

Visit Imprintables.com to get the phone number to his office.

JoshEllsworth · April 15th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by dAi


	josh ellsworth, this sucks. I tried using this method with the TTD Masking Sheet with your IW 4 Darks paper and this same method that you're using with the Light Transfer paper with the Masking sheet on the back with Letters and Words and it wouldn't stick up to the Masking sheet it wouldnt pick up with the trimmed image with the sheet.... i think the TTD Mask is not that strong like the Application Tape they use for vinyl signs decals

The process for the dark paper is different than the light.

For the dark paper it is already two layers, so just print it then cut it - then weed away the excess. After all of the excess is removed, lay down the masking material onto your image(s). Now use a squeegee to press out all of the air bubbles. Now lift the mask up - it should have your design on it, ready to apply.

For light colors, mask the sheet on the backafter it is printed and prior to cutting in order to make it two layers. Trim the edges so that the mask is about the same size as your transfer paper. Now cut it using the proper downforce -found by doing test cuts. Weed away the excess or if your design is simple and fully contained within on piece, just lift it off. Lay your printed design face down on the shirt and follow the heat instructions for the paper you are using.

Should work - you must be missing a step???

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Workflow: Trimming Light Transfer Paper w/ A Vinyl Cutter

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