hello all....
I have a new customer that wants the attached image on light blue shirts....now I am thinking I need to underbase this , but would like some opinions whether or not I truely need to underbase a light blue shirt......keep in mind I havent seen how light the blue is on the shirt as the customer already has the shirts and I will meet with them on sunday and see the shirt color.
I would say NO depending on how light blue it is. If it's like a navy blue, then I might. but even then you could probably get away without the underbase. just make sure you use a super opaque yellow ink on the shirt and it should be fine, but again without knowing the specific blue the shirt is i can't say 100%, but if it's light blue, i really don't think black,red and yellow would be an issue.
I spent over 2 hours in Photoshop designing this image from a hand drawn napkin...using the pen tool for the sheild ....would any of you charge for something like this?
Generally you should charge for time spent on a job - our hourly rate is $55/hour after the first 1/2 hour, which is free, to give you an idea of price.
Hey, if you want me to, I can do a version for you in Illustrator...if that helps. It won't take any time...I would say you should charge for the visual translation of a design idea, but this being so simple, even though it took some time to make, I really wouldn't charge for it separately. I am an illustrator and I havent really ever printed on Ts, and this is a very personal opinion...
cheers
The one thing I might change is the background. It's not quite symmetrical. Perhaps that's what you wanted though. If you want email me the PSD, and I can have at it for a few minutes. After I wake up that is... working on vacation recovery.
Underbase the yellow. I would even underbase the red if I were underbasing the yellow. Underbase using 200 mesh screen.
Light blue makes yellow muddy, it also can make red kind of burgundy looking if you don't pfp. But even if you pfp yellow, you won't get a bright yellow. It will look much better with an underbase.
what if I underbase the yellow with a solid white sheild , that would underbase the yellow, red and black..........would that work or would that make the print to heavy...I dont think the customer cares if the print is heavy or not...I am meeting with them today at 2 pm...
If they are 100% poly, then I would lean towards using an underbase, specifically a low bleed white ink, to keep dye migration to a minimum. Depending on how light the blue, you could see dye migration, especially the closer it gets to royal and darker. The low bleed underbase will help and I would put the base white on at least a 175 up to a 230. I've gotten away without underbasing on under armour material, even navy and black because of the shirt fibers being weaved so tight and small, therefore allowing the ink to sit on top of the shirt. So basically it depends on how "blue" the shirt is. The only reason I would underbase that image on a light blue shirt is to make sure there is no dye migration (bleeding). Blue poly is bad about dye migration, almost as bad as red. Post a pic of the actual shirt and % poly and we might be able to give you a definative answer.
Ok... Ready?
Always underbase if you are questioning it. It might take a little longer to print but your only going to print it once.
If you don't underbase it and it looks bad your going to have to back and do it anyways.
If you don't underbase it, you print it, and the customer is not happy your going to do it again.
As for the thickness of the print if you use a higher mesh screen like a 180 or 200 you will have a lighter ink deposit that will work great and you will get the bright colors. On a mid tone color garment there is no need to have a the thick base.
Set standards of your printing quality early on in your business. I have customers that call and want a price for a 1 color on a black shirt. First question I ask is what color ink is it? Because it's only a 1 color print if it's white ink. If they say any color other than white i edjucate them that it's actually a 2 color print because a base has to be added to get the vibrant colors. I always use the analogy "It's like painting a car, you have to put a primer coat underneath".
My biggest advice to any printer is:
Don't let your shirt be in someone elses shop being picked apart about how you should have printed it. At that point it's to late. You already lost the customer, he/she's unhappy and another shop in your community is gloating about he got the business and can do it better.
Always charge for art. Take pride in your work and the skills you have learned. I charge $65 an hour with a $35 minimum art charge. The $35 minimum art charge is charged if I have to sit doen in front of the computer and do anything to a customers art. If someone is ordering a substantial ammount of shirts or you think it's a deal breaker if you charge use your judgment. You have to remember that if your doing art your not doing something else that could be making you money. I have never lost a job because of an art charge.
Ditto, I would think the yellow is the determining color, but should work.
Even if you had to P/F/P the yellow it would be faster than doing an underbase.
I don't see where it would be any faster. I would print the underbase to get the true colors. When you start questioning you usually should use an underlay.
ok..so I will underbase the design...underbase with a 230...red , yellow and black also will be on 230 mesh screens.....now I didnt know the shirts were 100% polyester until I talked to the customer today....they said t-shirt when we were on the phone ..now its a soccer jersey...so my question is ..
can I use standard plastisol ink to print the poly shirts?or do I need to get a different ink?
To Underbase or not...that is the question 
