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Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White



 
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Old May 1st, 2009 May 1, 2009 7:17:40 PM -   #1 (permalink)
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Default Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

Hello everyone, I was wondering if it is possible to a proper cure with Union's Plasticharge White using just a flash dryer. Union's website states that the ink need to be at 320 deg. for at least 90 seconds. I don't have a conveyor dryer and it would only be for a small run of 24 shirts. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
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Old May 2nd, 2009 May 2, 2009 5:47:05 AM -   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

The flash works fine, just raise it up a little, and maybe put a fan blowing on it on low speed. Your pallets will get very hot. Also, It seems to cure just fine at around 45 secs. If you have a heat press, it works the best of all, but is slow.
 
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Old May 2nd, 2009 May 2, 2009 10:04:45 AM -   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

Hey,

Yes, I used to do that before I got a belt dryer. It's hard to do production runs with it though - your platens got so friggin' hot!

Cheers.
 
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Old May 2nd, 2009 May 2, 2009 5:21:22 PM -   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

Thanks for the tip. I will have to wait after the weekend to try it out. I didn't get the ZFS Discharge Agent (DSPP-9ZFS) (I didn't know I had to buy separately). Also can you use the Union Plasticharge Additive (DSPCH-9070) to any type of ink, as well as color? Thanks!
 
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Old May 3rd, 2009 May 3, 2009 9:47:36 PM -   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

you can mix the base w/ any plastisol, from what I understand. I've only had problems w/ reds, they turn either pinkish or orangeish and is hard to correct it. Pure pigment might be the best way on that.
 
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Old May 4th, 2009 May 4, 2009 11:38:48 AM -   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

Quote:
Originally Posted by macmiller
you can mix the base w/ any plastisol, from what I understand. I've only had problems w/ reds, they turn either pinkish or orangeish and is hard to correct it. Pure pigment might be the best way on that.

That's really good to know. Now do I use a emulsion that suited for water based inks? I'm not sure because its part water based and part plastisol. Right now I use Lawson SBQ 500 emulsion. Also will the ink dry up my screen like a water based ink would? Thanks in advance.
 
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Old May 4th, 2009 May 4, 2009 12:39:02 PM -   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

it will dry up, do a thick flood after each print. i'm in the middle of a 210 pc order with a large (15"x21") print.

also, it will break the stencil down. using ulano qt discharge it lasted for about 95 shirts, figuring each one had 2 or 3 pulls each. i'm waiting on the screen to dry to re-shoot it, that's why i'm here!!!

i normally use qx1 w/ no problems for about 60-80 prints. i plan on getting some hardner to prevent breakdown.
 
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Old May 4th, 2009 May 4, 2009 1:06:46 PM -   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

you dont neeed to cure the plastisol ink for 90 seconds.If you read the webpage Union Inks states that the ink needs to cure at 330 deg. In a conveyer over this process will normaly take 20 seconds. Buy a Temp gun and record the temp under the flash and see how long it takes the ink to reach 330 deg.
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Old May 4th, 2009 May 4, 2009 2:07:55 PM -   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

I did a short run of Matsui discharge on Ulano QX-1, 22 shirts. By the time I was done, there was pretty much no emulsion left on the squeegee side of the screen at all. I could have gotten more shirts out of it, but it blew off when I cleaned it.
I flooded the screen each time, and didn't have any problems with it drying in the mesh.
Also, I cured them all in a regular kitchen oven (that is not used for cooking) with LOTS of ventilation. I wouldn't cure them on your platens. If you are going to use a flash, just put the shirts on something else besides your platens and let the flash work while you print.

FWIW, I am about 99% sure that Lawson SBQ-500 is Ulano QTX and SBQ-510 is QX-1. I have SBQ-510 and QX-1 and I can't tell a difference.
 
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Old May 4th, 2009 May 4, 2009 4:22:59 PM -   #10 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

Quote:
Originally Posted by denck
you dont neeed to cure the plastisol ink for 90 seconds.If you read the webpage Union Inks states that the ink needs to cure at 330 deg. In a conveyer over this process will normaly take 20 seconds. Buy a Temp gun and record the temp under the flash and see how long it takes the ink to reach 330 deg.
I know that is the case with regular plastisol ink, but is it still the same with "Plasticharge Ink"? I could of sworn the website said at least 90 seconds to a get a proper discharge.
 
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Old May 4th, 2009 May 4, 2009 4:37:36 PM -   #11 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

Back in the good old days when I cured my shirts using a flash panel, I would take the shirt off the shirt board after printing, and place it on another board so my shirt board wouldn't get so hot.
Then I would load a new shirt and print it. By then the shirt that I was curing was finished and my was able to maximize my time better.
 
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Old May 5th, 2009 May 5, 2009 10:44:16 AM -   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

Quote:
Originally Posted by snackdaddy185
I know that is the case with regular plastisol ink, but is it still the same with "Plasticharge Ink"? I could of sworn the website said at least 90 seconds to a get a proper discharge.
i think he meant regular plastisol. plasticharge is longer but not 90 sec, more like 45-60. depending on the mesh, a lower mesh just puts more in and takes longer to fully discharge it. a heat press will do it in 15-20 sec, but kills production speeds, trust me!!
 
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Old May 5th, 2009 May 5, 2009 12:02:10 PM -   #13 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

Quote:
Originally Posted by macmiller
i think he meant regular plastisol. plasticharge is longer but not 90 sec, more like 45-60. depending on the mesh, a lower mesh just puts more in and takes longer to fully discharge it. a heat press will do it in 15-20 sec, but kills production speeds, trust me!!
I may try to use a heat press just to make sure it is properly cured, (production speed is not really a factor since I am only doing 24 shirts). What heat setting did you set your heat press to? Thanks!
 
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Old May 5th, 2009 May 5, 2009 6:29:52 PM -   #14 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

what works well for me is almost no pressure to keep it soft. 325 degrees for15 seconds is long enough, but 30 gets more of the smell out.
 
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Old May 6th, 2009 May 6, 2009 5:49:48 PM -   #15 (permalink)
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Default Re: Curing Union Ink Plasticharge White

Quote:
Originally Posted by macmiller
what works well for me is almost no pressure to keep it soft. 325 degrees for15 seconds is long enough, but 30 gets more of the smell out.
Have you done any discharge/plastisol combo prints using these heat press settings?
 
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