If the stencil is hardening - and hard to wash out, it is still working.
What is failing, is your positive. If your positive allows UV energy to leak through and expose it, it will be weak and only harden a thin crust of stencil at the surface. Like a loaf of bread, the inside will be soft and unexposed.
Dime Complete Opacity Test
To judge if your positive completely stops UV energy, tape a coin or cut a piece of aluminum foil in a decorative shape to the stencil and see if the dark areas of your positive are failing you and letting UV-A energy through to the stencil. If the area covered by the coin doesn't wash out, you have exposed the stencil to UV energy or heat energy and the stencil resists dissolving with water and going down the drain.
Wire Test
To test for fine lines or halftones
Test this by taping different thicknesses of wire to an unused part of your stencil. The metal wire will not allow UV energy to transfer through it like a poor stencil.
Doesn't stay in the mesh
If the stencil washes out - it wasn't exposed with enough UV-A energy, so it dissolves with water and rinses down the drain; just like it is supposed to.
Stouffer 21 Step Guide
You can test exposure with a manual step test or simulate exposure with a Stouffer 21 Step Guide. It is an old fashioned film positive that is opaque on one end, and transparent on the other. With one exposure, you simulate 21 different exposures. The first function of any screen maker is to learn to judge the hardness of the stencil so exposure isn't wasted on a stencil that won't change anymore and prevent under exposure that will cause pre-mature breakdown or failure when you develop the stencil after exposure.
http://www.ulano.com/FAQ/FAQexposure.htm#Q1