Print-screen

hey everyne, this is my second post
i'veintroduced myself in the indtriduction forum

anyway, i have some questions and i really hope people here will have an answer for me cause i have ravaged the net for specific information about this and have failed to find satisfying and clear enough information..

this is my problem, im trying to print large white print on black t shirts. now i have read so many articles and seen so many videos about this and what i eventually understood is this:
-110-156 thread count for the screen
-thick emulsion layer (on the outside of the screen)
-off contact which is not too low
-a correct squeegee control

im made all the mistakes (i now have prints which are doubled (not synced after flashing due to shirt sticking to screen and pulled out of place when i lift the screen), really rough prints (also due to screen sticking to shirt i guess), blurry prints and so on

so i tried focusing on creating a thick emulsion layer and failed MISERABLY more than a few times....what i do is put a first coat on the outside and inside, then dry, then coat again on the outside, dry again and coat one more on the outside. the first two times i tried this, the whole emulsion got ruined...the inside washed ou completely while the outside was so thick..
so i skipped the third coat
and still it was under exposed every time

i dunno, i really dont know what im doing wrong, i tried playing with the exposure time but still no luck
thing is its so time consuming creating so many layers of emlusion since it takes around 30 mins fora thick coat to dry

thing is i have to put the shirts out in like, 10 hours, and i havent slept for 24 hours, and im so frustrated
i have spent SO much emlusion (stupid of me to pratice on a big print)

anyway, does anyone know how i should get the perfect thick emulsion coat and still get the stencil out right?
any tips, obvious stuff, whatever
if i need to give out more information please tell me

thank you, thank you, and thank you again for reading and caring!

 

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pukingdeserthobo

try coating it one on both sides, then print flash print. u don't need to have it thick.
to prevent the shirt to sticking to the screen make sure u use Adhesive

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fadzuli

yeah if u dun have the spray adhesive u can use a few clips to hold the shirt to the platen, if its bigger than the screen.

as for the prints, most prob u have to print flash print. if not enough then more flash prints, :P

with regards to the emulsion i think it needs practise. watch the videos available on youtube and c if you can improve your technique.

all the best!

 

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Print-screen

thanks for the reply

i have a adhesive spray but no matter how much i spray, and then add 10 clips clipsing the shirt to the board, it still get stuck and pulled up real bad....

i really prefer creating a concrete, opaque white with perferably one stroke (i could have used flash if i could guarantee 100% the shirt will stay in the EXACT same location after i lift the screen)

i watched so manu videos on youtube but almost no one shows how to create a thick emulsion layer although alot of people talk about it...in general i barely saw videos of people coating emulsion on screen compared to other instructional videos)

 

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pukingdeserthobo

Quote: Originally Posted by Print-screen thanks for the reply i have a adhesive spray but no matter how much i spray, and then add 10 clips clipsing the shirt to the board, it still get stuck and pulled up real bad.... i really prefer creating a concrete, opaque white with perferably one stroke (i could have used flash if i could guarantee 100% the shirt will stay in the EXACT same location after i lift the screen)

what kinda adhesive are u using it shouldn't pull Ur shirt up, no matter what if u want a nice bright white u will need a print flash print

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Print-screen

its a Wilflex Hot-Tak Adhesive
says "formulated for flash curing applications"

the white ink i used is a Bright Cotton White Plastisol PADM-1027, by Union Ink

 

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pukingdeserthobo

Quote: Originally Posted by Print-screen its a Wilflex Hot-Tak Adhesive says "formulated for flash curing applications" the white ink i used is a Bright Cotton White Plastisol PADM-1027, by Union Ink

i have never used that adhesive but i assume u need to heat that adhesive when its the pallet with a flash?

what are u planing on printing?
do u want a think print or a soft hand print?

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Print-screen

well of course i will always prefer a soft hand print...
but i use plastisol and the print is pretty large (36 cm wide * 55 cm long)
actually the front of the shirt has a big *** logo printed in white, and on the back just bold text (and really big as i stated before) printed in white
so yeh i prefer getting a soft hand and not a bulletproof vest

 

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pukingdeserthobo

Quote: Originally Posted by Print-screen well of course i will always prefer a soft hand print... but i use plastisol and the print is pretty large (36 cm wide * 55 cm long) actually the front of the shirt has a big *** logo printed in white, and on the back just bold text (and really big as i stated before) printed in white so yeh i prefer getting a soft hand and not a bulletproof vest

ok so then flash print flash is the best way to go.
the thicker the coat on the emultion is the thinker ur print will be

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Print-screen

when you say flash print flash
you mean i first flash than print than flash and print again?

flash the blank shirt before i start


the problem is i still cant ensure the shirt not moving out of its place.. :\

 

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Print-screen

i just tried again, with a thinner layer of emulsion

the screen still REALLY really sticks to the shirt....its so bad....
and after i lift he screen (besides the fact that th shirt is all messed up cuz it bounced up) the screen is not cleared...
the ink part of the stencil is not clear and is full of white ink......my off contact is probably around 0.3 CM (

 

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pukingdeserthobo

how long are u letting ur screen dry after u emulsion them.
after u flash u should give it s few seconds to cool donw before the other layer

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Print-screen

it varies, i just leave them in the oven untill i come back, no less than 15 20 mins usually...
sometimes i leave them for an hour or so cuz i forget, and it still happens

yeh i tried cooling down, the thing is i dont even get to flash! new screen, nothing printed yet, the first attempt to print already gets stuck so bad to the screen that flashing wont matter cuz the shirt goes out of place...

 

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pukingdeserthobo

Quote: Originally Posted by Print-screen it varies, i just leave them in the oven untill i come back, no less than 15 20 mins usually... sometimes i leave them for an hour or so cuz i forget, and it still happens yeh i tried cooling down, the thing is i dont even get to flash! new screen, nothing printed yet, the first attempt to print already gets stuck so bad to the screen that flashing wont matter cuz the shirt goes out of place...

what do u mean the oven?
one more then what are u using to expose ur screens
im running out of ideas

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snarley

Hi Guy

I don't think you have enough off contact clearence and you are pushing your screen down on your substrate (T-shirt) and this is causing it to stick.
I would double your off contact to 0.635 CM (1/4 inch). You might be laying down to much ink and this will often cause the screen to stick. With white ink you are better off with a light first coat that you flash and then print another coat on top it.

Plastisol inks are very thixotropic which means that the ink will stiffen when not in use. When you stir or mix they will reduce slightly. you should always stir your ink before printing. If it is still to thick you can reduce the viscosity by adding a balanced reducer.

There are two types of reducers, the older version is based on a liquid plasticiser and is clear and oily. if you add to much the ink won't cure because there is to much plasticizer for the resin in the ink to absorb.

The best reducer is a balanced or curable reducer. It has both resin and plasticizer and will not affect the balance of the ink while lowering the viscosity or making it thinner.

There are other factors involved like screen mesh count, ink color, garment color. When printing light colored shirts, the ink should be smooth and creamy. For dark colored shirts and athletic prints it should be thicker.

Before reducing the ink check its consistency by stirring it first, if it is still to thick mix in a small amount of balanced reducer. the best way is to have a mixing board rather than try to mix the whole container. place your ink on the board stir it good and if necessary add the reducer. You can also do this on the print screen if your overall image will allow it.

Ink that is reduced slightly will flow through the screen and be easier to print and will result in sharper prints with good ink penetration.

This is just few things of many when you get into other additives and types of speciality inks you will have other things to contend with. All of this becomes much easier as you progress in this field.

I hope this is of some help and good luck in your screen printing.

Bill m

 

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