I'm trying to print a few one-off shirts. I'm using freezer paper to cut out my design and iron the paper to the shirt. This part works fine. I'm using Jacquard Super Opaque White paint that I got from Jo-Ann Fabrics. After washing the design cracks. The few times it didn't, it cracked when I pulled it.
Here is my process:
1. Iron design to shirt
2. Stir ink
3. Scoop ink and put it on freezer paper
4. Using cardboard like a squeegee I push the ink across the paper & shirt.
5. Peel off freezer paper.
6. Dry the ink with a hair dryer. (Usually looks good and thick after one application).
7. Iron the design front and back (placing parchment paper over the design). I've done this as much as 5 minutes per side and even putting aluminum foil under the shirt.
What am I doing wrong? The only other place in town that I know sells screen printing supplies is Dick Blicks. Is there a different ink that might work better? I'm printing on black & other dark colored shirts. So far I've been practicing on my paint shirts that are on their way to the trash can anyway.
Dick Blick sells Union Aerotext WB inks at least on their website, maybe not in stores, but that's an ok brand of ink.
If your white ink cracks, it is because you did not cure it properly. You won't be able to get it hot enough to properly cure with an iron.
I would suggest you stick with doing darker colors on lighter shirts with your current set up. You will have less problems than you will if you try using opaque inks.
I would say look at the curing! A Hair dryer won't get hot enough you need to achieve 320 degrees for a few seconds to fully cure the ink! A cheap way is to use your oven or you can use a hot air gun! But best would be a flash dryer or conveyor dryer. Monitor the temp with a temp gun and you are set!
Do I still need to put it in the oven if it's not plastisol? I picked up a heat gun last week for one of my other hobbies. Would that work? It has two settings hot (572) and really hot (1112).
Would I be better off letting it air dry for a few hours then heat setting it?
I would say look at the curing! A Hair dryer won't get hot enough you need to achieve 320 degrees for a few seconds to fully cure the ink! A cheap way is to use your oven or you can use a hot air gun! But best would be a flash dryer or conveyor dryer. Monitor the temp with a temp gun and you are set!
Plastisol inks have to get to 320. This is a waterbased ink. It does not have to get that hot to cure.
Depending on the ink, cure temperature for waterbased inks are around the 250 degree area for a time period of 2 to 3 minutes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickey72
Do I still need to put it in the oven if it's not plastisol? I picked up a heat gun last week for one of my other hobbies. Would that work? It has two settings hot (572) and really hot (1112).
Would I be better off letting it air dry for a few hours then heat setting it?
I would stay away from the oven. I agree with everyone else who says you may be laying too thick a layer. Waterbased ink soaks into the fabric. You should not be able to feel it at all. Therefore, there is no way it could crack.
This ink you are using is more of a all purpose (paper, crafts, etc.) ink. I would try another brand like versatex, or permaset. I think you will be happier with those results.
Last edited by splathead; June 24th, 2008 at 07:24 AM.
Everyone's idea of thick seems good but ... I'd even try turning the shirt inside out after you've "cured" it on the front.
The cure the back side also!
When you run shirts thru a dryer the air passes all the way thru the fabric = a total cure.
Yes you can over cure (dry out) the ink also.
Keep testing & wite down your results for each shirt color, fabric type, ink color. White or opaque inks are the hardest.
Design cracking after washing 
